Knitting Tutorial: Snoopy Amigurumi in Blue Overalls – Free Knitting Pattern

This charming knitted Snoopy-style amigurumi is designed as a soft garden companion with a large rounded white head, black floppy ears, a tiny black nose, blue striped shirt, textured blue overalls, brown open-toe garden sandals, a straw-style hat, crossbody flower bag, watering can, basket of vegetables, carrot pocket detail, and small red ladybug accents. The finished toy has the collectible look many crafters love when searching for handmade plush toys, knitting kits, amigurumi supplies, premium cotton yarn, toy safety eyes, craft gift ideas, and nursery decor. Use firm stuffing, neat mattress seams, and small-gauge needles to keep every curve smooth and photo-ready.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

Using DK yarn and 2.75 mm needles, the finished amigurumi measures about 11 inches tall while seated. The oversized head is about 4.75 inches wide from cheek to cheek, the seated body is about 5 inches tall from seat to neck, and each foot is about 2.25 inches long.

The toy is knitted mostly flat and seamed, with small pieces worked in the round where helpful. Keep your gauge tight enough that stuffing cannot show through. If your fabric looks loose, go down one needle size.

Skill Level

• Level: Adventurous beginner to intermediate.
• Main techniques: Knit, purl, increase, decrease, short shaping, color changes, mattress stitch, duplicate stitch, embroidery, small-piece assembly.
• Construction style: Separate knitted pieces sewn together for accurate shape control.

Materials

• DK weight yarn in white: 90 g for head, muzzle, arms, legs, and toe areas.
• DK weight yarn in black: 20 g for ears, nose, smile, paw lines, and ladybug dots.
• DK weight yarn in denim blue: 45 g for overalls.
• DK weight yarn in pale blue: 18 g for striped shirt.
• DK weight yarn in medium blue: 15 g for shirt stripes.
• DK weight yarn in tan: 30 g for straw hat, basket, and crossbody bag.
• DK weight yarn in brown: 25 g for sandals.
• Small amounts of orange, green, yellow, red, gray, cream, and white for vegetables, flowers, shovel, watering can, and ladybugs.
• 2.75 mm straight needles.
• 2.75 mm double-pointed needles for tiny round parts.
• 3.0 mm straight needles for straw accessories if you want a slightly softer basket texture.
• Polyester fiberfill.
• Two 6 mm black safety eyes or black yarn embroidery for the eyes.
• Two tiny tan buttons, about 8 mm wide, for the overall bib.
• Tapestry needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Black embroidery thread.
• Gold cord or gold yarn for neck trim and bag strap.
• Optional: pipe cleaner for the watering can handle and basket handle if the toy is decorative only.

Gauge

• Stockinette gauge: 26 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches using 2.75 mm needles.
• Accessory gauge: 28 stitches and 38 rows = 4 inches using 2.75 mm needles.
• Important: Exact gauge is less important than dense, smooth fabric. Match the proportions instead of forcing a loose gauge.

Abbreviations

• CO: Cast on.
• BO: Bind off.
• K: Knit.
• P: Purl.
• Sts: Stitches.
• RS: Right side.
• WS: Wrong side.
• Kfb: Knit into front and back of next stitch; 1 stitch increased.
• M1: Make 1 stitch by lifting the strand between stitches and knitting through the back loop.
• K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together; 1 stitch decreased.
• SSK: Slip, slip, knit; 1 stitch decreased.
• St st: Stockinette stitch, knit RS rows and purl WS rows.
• Garter st: Knit every row.
• I-cord: Small knitted cord worked on double-pointed needles.

Pattern Notes

The head is intentionally larger than the body, with a rounded dome, extended muzzle, and soft cheek shape. The body sits low and plush, with short arms and chunky legs visible under the blue overalls. The black ears hang from the sides of the head and should angle slightly backward.

The clothing is not removable. The striped shirt is knitted as a fitted upper-body layer, and the blue overalls are built over the body with a front bib, short pant legs, shoulder straps, pocket lines, and tiny buttons. This gives the exact garden-doll appearance shown in the image.

• Use mattress stitch for vertical seams so the body stays rounded.
• Stuff each piece gradually. Do not overstuff the muzzle point or it will lose the soft Snoopy-like curve.
• Keep embroidery simple and clean: one large black smile curve, one tiny heart-like black eye, and narrow paw lines.
• All small accessories are optional for young children. For babies, embroider every detail instead of using buttons or safety eyes.

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Head

Work the head in white. The shape begins at the back of the head, grows into a wide dome, then extends into the long rounded muzzle. Make one.

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb 8 times, K1. 18 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Row 5: K2, kfb, K2, kfb, K4, kfb, K2, kfb, K2. 22 sts.
7. Row 6: P all sts.
8. Row 7: K2, kfb, K4, kfb, K6, kfb, K4, kfb, K2. 26 sts.
9. Row 8: P all sts.
10. Row 9: K3, kfb, K5, kfb, K6, kfb, K5, kfb, K3. 30 sts.
11. Row 10: P all sts.
12. Row 11: K4, kfb, K6, kfb, K6, kfb, K6, kfb, K4. 34 sts.
13. Row 12: P all sts.
14. Row 13: K5, kfb, K7, kfb, K6, kfb, K7, kfb, K5. 38 sts.
15. Rows 14 to 24: Work in St st for 11 rows.
16. Row 25: K10, M1, K18, M1, K10. 40 sts.
17. Row 26: P all sts.
18. Row 27: K12, M1, K16, M1, K12. 42 sts.
19. Rows 28 to 34: Work in St st for 7 rows.
20. Row 35: K14, M1, K14, M1, K14. 44 sts.
21. Rows 36 to 42: Work in St st for 7 rows.
22. Row 43: K16, M1, K12, M1, K16. 46 sts.
23. Row 44: P all sts.
24. Row 45: K18, M1, K10, M1, K18. 48 sts.
25. Rows 46 to 54: Work in St st for 9 rows.
26. Row 55: K8, k2tog, K28, ssk, K8. 46 sts.
27. Row 56: P all sts.
28. Row 57: K7, k2tog, K28, ssk, K7. 44 sts.
29. Row 58: P all sts.
30. Row 59: K6, k2tog, K28, ssk, K6. 42 sts.
31. Row 60: P all sts.
32. Row 61: K5, k2tog, K28, ssk, K5. 40 sts.
33. Row 62: P all sts.
34. Row 63: K4, k2tog, K28, ssk, K4. 38 sts.
35. Row 64: P all sts.
36. Row 65: K3, k2tog, K28, ssk, K3. 36 sts.
37. Row 66: P all sts.
38. Row 67: K2, k2tog, K28, ssk, K2. 34 sts.
39. Row 68: P all sts.
40. Row 69: K1, k2tog, K28, ssk, K1. 32 sts.
41. Row 70: P all sts.
42. Row 71: K2tog across. 16 sts.
43. Row 72: P all sts.
44. Row 73: K2tog across. 8 sts.
45. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight, and secure.

Fold the head with RS facing outward. Sew the long seam from the back dome toward the muzzle, leaving a 2-inch opening. Stuff firmly at the dome and gently at the muzzle. The muzzle should slope downward slightly, creating the soft oval snout seen in the picture. Close the opening neatly.

Cheek and Muzzle Shaping

The main head already includes the muzzle, but light sculpting creates the exact rounded profile. Use white yarn and a long tapestry needle.

1. Insert the needle under the head at the neck point.
2. Bring it out 1 inch below the nose position on the front muzzle.
3. Take a tiny horizontal stitch across 2 knitted stitches.
4. Return to the neck point and pull gently.
5. Repeat once on the left cheek and once on the right cheek.

Do not pull too tightly. The goal is a soft lifted smile area, not deep dimples. The muzzle should remain round and plush.

Black Nose

Work the nose in black. Make one small oval.

1. CO 6 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: Kfb, K4, kfb. 8 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Rows 5 to 8: Work in St st.
7. Row 9: K2tog, K4, ssk. 6 sts.
8. Row 10: P all sts.
9. Row 11: K2tog, K2, ssk. 4 sts.
10. Cut yarn, thread through sts, pull tight.

Sew the nose to the front tip of the muzzle, slightly above center and leaning forward. Add a tiny amount of stuffing under the nose before closing the last few stitches so it sits like a rounded black button.

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Eyes and Smile

The face in the image is simple and expressive. Use black yarn or embroidery floss.

• Eye: Embroider one small vertical oval on the upper front of the head, about 1.25 inches above the smile and slightly to the viewer’s left of center.
• Eye size: Work 6 satin stitches over a 4-stitch-tall area.
• Smile: Embroider a long curved smile from the lower left muzzle toward the cheek. Use backstitch over about 24 stitches in a shallow upward curve.
• Smile thickness: Go over the line twice, but keep it narrow and clean.

Ears

Make two black floppy ears. They are long, rounded, and hang down from the side of the head, slightly behind the eye line.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: Kfb, K6, kfb. 10 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Row 5: Kfb, K8, kfb. 12 sts.
7. Rows 6 to 10: Work in St st.
8. Row 11: Kfb, K10, kfb. 14 sts.
9. Rows 12 to 34: Work in St st for 23 rows.
10. Row 35: K2tog, K10, ssk. 12 sts.
11. Row 36: P all sts.
12. Row 37: K2tog, K8, ssk. 10 sts.
13. Row 38: P all sts.
14. Row 39: K2tog, K6, ssk. 8 sts.
15. Row 40: P all sts.
16. Row 41: K2tog, K4, ssk. 6 sts.
17. Row 42: P all sts.
18. Row 43: K2tog, K2, ssk. 4 sts.
19. BO all sts.

Make a second ear the same way. Fold each ear lengthwise with WS together and sew around the edge, leaving the cast-on edge open. Do not stuff. Sew the ears to the head sides, with the top edge about 1 inch down from the head crown. Let each ear hang naturally.

Body Base

The body is white underneath, but most of it will be covered by the shirt and overalls. Make a rounded seated body with a wide lower belly.

1. Using white yarn, CO 18 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K2, kfb, K4, kfb, K4, kfb, K4, kfb, K2. 22 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Row 5: K3, kfb, K5, kfb, K4, kfb, K5, kfb, K3. 26 sts.
7. Row 6: P all sts.
8. Row 7: K4, kfb, K6, kfb, K4, kfb, K6, kfb, K4. 30 sts.
9. Row 8: P all sts.
10. Row 9: K5, kfb, K7, kfb, K4, kfb, K7, kfb, K5. 34 sts.
11. Rows 10 to 28: Work in St st.
12. Row 29: K8, k2tog, K14, ssk, K8. 32 sts.
13. Row 30: P all sts.
14. Row 31: K7, k2tog, K14, ssk, K7. 30 sts.
15. Row 32: P all sts.
16. Row 33: K6, k2tog, K14, ssk, K6. 28 sts.
17. Row 34: P all sts.
18. Row 35: K5, k2tog, K14, ssk, K5. 26 sts.
19. Row 36: P all sts.
20. Row 37: K4, k2tog, K14, ssk, K4. 24 sts.
21. Rows 38 to 42: Work in St st.
22. BO all sts, leaving a long tail.

Sew the back seam, stuff firmly, and close the base. Shape the lower body into a seated oval by pressing the bottom flat as you stuff. The upper neck opening should stay narrower so the large head sits securely on top.

Striped Shirt Layer

The shirt is knitted as a fitted tube panel and sewn around the upper body. It has narrow pale blue and medium blue stripes, short sleeves, and a rounded neckline visible under the overalls.

Shirt Body Panel

1. With medium blue yarn, CO 38 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 2: K all sts for a small garter hem.
3. Rows 3 to 4: Work St st in medium blue.
4. Rows 5 to 6: Work St st in pale blue.
5. Rows 7 to 8: Work St st in medium blue.
6. Rows 9 to 10: Work St st in pale blue.
7. Rows 11 to 12: Work St st in medium blue.
8. Rows 13 to 14: Work St st in pale blue.
9. Rows 15 to 16: Work St st in medium blue.
10. Rows 17 to 18: Work St st in pale blue.
11. Rows 19 to 20: Work St st in medium blue.
12. Rows 21 to 22: Work St st in pale blue.
13. Rows 23 to 24: Work St st in medium blue.
14. Rows 25 to 26: K all sts in medium blue for neckline edge.
15. BO all sts.

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Wrap the panel around the upper body, placing the seam at center back. Sew it in place, keeping the lower edge just above the widest belly area. The stripes should sit horizontally across the chest and shoulders.

Short Sleeves

Make two sleeves. Each sleeve is a small striped cuff wrapped around the upper arm before the arm is attached.

1. With medium blue, CO 18 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: K all sts.
4. Rows 3 to 4: St st in pale blue.
5. Rows 5 to 6: St st in medium blue.
6. Rows 7 to 8: St st in pale blue.
7. Rows 9 to 10: St st in medium blue.
8. Row 11: K all sts.
9. BO all sts.

Make the second sleeve the same way. Set aside until the arms are complete.

White Arms

Make two short white arms with rounded paws. The arms hang at the sides and curve slightly inward.

1. CO 10 sts in white.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: Kfb, K8, kfb. 12 sts.
5. Rows 4 to 8: Work in St st.
6. Row 9: Kfb, K10, kfb. 14 sts.
7. Rows 10 to 22: Work in St st.
8. Row 23: K2tog, K10, ssk. 12 sts.
9. Row 24: P all sts.
10. Row 25: K2tog, K8, ssk. 10 sts.
11. Row 26: P all sts.
12. Row 27: K2tog, K6, ssk. 8 sts.
13. Cut yarn, thread through sts, pull tight.

Sew the arm seam and stuff lightly. Slide one striped sleeve around the upper part of the arm and sew the sleeve seam at the underside. Repeat for the second arm. Embroider one small black curved paw line near the rounded end of each arm.

Legs

The legs are white with blue overall shorts covering the upper section. Each foot is rounded and visible inside a brown sandal.

White Leg and Foot Core

Make two.

1. With white yarn, CO 12 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: Kfb, K10, kfb. 14 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Row 5: Kfb, K12, kfb. 16 sts.
7. Rows 6 to 14: Work in St st.
8. Row 15: K4, kfb, K6, kfb, K4. 18 sts.
9. Rows 16 to 26: Work in St st.
10. Row 27: K2tog, K14, ssk. 16 sts.
11. Row 28: P all sts.
12. Row 29: K2tog, K12, ssk. 14 sts.
13. Row 30: P all sts.
14. Row 31: K2tog, K10, ssk. 12 sts.
15. Row 32: P all sts.
16. BO all sts.

Sew each leg seam and stuff firmly. Shape the bottom into a slightly flattened oval foot, wider at the front. The leg should angle forward when sewn to the body.

Blue Short Pants Covers

Make two covers to create the lower overall shorts seen above the feet.

1. With denim blue, CO 20 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: K all sts for garter cuff.
3. Rows 5 to 16: Work in St st.
4. Row 17: K2, k2tog, K12, ssk, K2. 18 sts.
5. Row 18: P all sts.
6. Rows 19 to 22: Work in St st.
7. BO all sts.

Wrap one blue cover around the upper half of each leg and sew the back seam. The garter cuff should sit just above the white foot area, matching the image where blue pant legs stop before the sandals.

Blue Overalls

The overalls are the most important clothing feature. They are denim blue, soft, slightly textured, and include a front bib, shoulder straps, button details, pant sections, pocket lines, and a little carrot tucked into one front pocket.

Overall Belly Panel

1. With denim blue, CO 34 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: K all sts for lower hem.
3. Rows 5 to 18: Work in St st.
4. Row 19: K5, purl 2, K20, purl 2, K5 to create front seam lines.
5. Row 20: P all sts.
6. Rows 21 to 28: Repeat Rows 19 and 20 four more times.
7. Row 29: K4, k2tog, K22, ssk, K4. 32 sts.
8. Row 30: P all sts.
9. Row 31: K3, k2tog, K22, ssk, K3. 30 sts.
10. Row 32: P all sts.
11. Row 33: K2, k2tog, K22, ssk, K2. 28 sts.
12. Row 34: P all sts.
13. Rows 35 to 38: Work in St st.
14. BO all sts.

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Sew the belly panel over the front lower body. Place it so the bottom edge overlaps the top of the blue leg covers. The panel should curve around the belly but leave the striped shirt visible at the shoulders and sleeves.

Overall Back Panel

1. With denim blue, CO 32 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: K all sts.
3. Rows 5 to 24: Work in St st.
4. Row 25: K4, k2tog, K20, ssk, K4. 30 sts.
5. Row 26: P all sts.
6. Row 27: K3, k2tog, K20, ssk, K3. 28 sts.
7. Row 28: P all sts.
8. BO all sts.

Sew the back panel to the body, joining side edges to the front belly panel. Leave the top open enough that the striped shirt still shows around the shoulders.

Overall Bib

1. With denim blue, CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 3: K all sts.
3. Rows 4 to 16: Work in St st, keeping the first 2 sts and last 2 sts in garter st on every row.
4. Row 17: K2, k2tog, K10, ssk, K2. 16 sts.
5. Row 18: K2, P12, K2.
6. Row 19: K2, k2tog, K8, ssk, K2. 14 sts.
7. Row 20: K all sts.
8. BO all sts.

Sew the bib to the center front chest over the striped shirt. The top of the bib should stop just below the neck and curve slightly outward. Sew two tiny tan buttons near the top corners.

Shoulder Straps

Make two narrow straps.

1. With denim blue, CO 4 sts.
2. Knit every row until the strap measures 4.25 inches.
3. BO all sts.

Sew one end of each strap to the back overalls. Cross them slightly over the shoulders or place them straight, depending on the fit. Attach the front ends under the tan buttons on the bib. The straps should sit snugly without pulling the body out of shape.

Overall Pocket Lines

Use denim blue yarn one shade darker, or the same yarn doubled, to embroider pocket details. Work small backstitches directly onto the belly panel.

• Stitch one curved pocket line on the viewer’s left side, 8 stitches wide and 5 rows tall.
• Stitch one vertical seam line down the center front, about 14 rows long.
• Stitch one small square pocket on the viewer’s right side, 7 stitches wide and 6 rows tall.
• Leave the top of the right pocket open so the carrot can be tucked in.

Carrot Pocket Detail

The carrot is tiny but visually important. It sits in the front pocket of the blue overalls.

Carrot Root

1. With orange yarn, CO 5 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 2: Work in St st.
3. Row 3: K2tog, K1, ssk. 3 sts.
4. Row 4: P all sts.
5. Row 5: Slip 1, K2tog, pass slipped stitch over. 1 st.
6. Fasten off.

Carrot Leaves

1. With green yarn, CO 3 sts.
2. Knit 5 rows.
3. BO all sts.
4. Make two more leaves the same way.

Sew the leaves to the carrot top. Tuck the carrot into the pocket and secure it with 2 tiny stitches so it stands upright.

Brown Garden Sandals

The sandals are brown, open at the top, and wrap around the white toes. Each sandal has a red ladybug accent near the front.

Sandal Sole

Make two.

1. With brown yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: Kfb, K6, kfb. 10 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Row 5: Kfb, K8, kfb. 12 sts.
7. Rows 6 to 18: Work in St st.
8. Row 19: K2tog, K8, ssk. 10 sts.
9. Row 20: P all sts.
10. Row 21: K2tog, K6, ssk. 8 sts.
11. BO all sts.

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Sandal Upper Strap

Make two.

1. With brown yarn, CO 22 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 5: K all sts.
3. BO all sts.

Sew each strap over the front half of the white foot, leaving the white toe area visible. Attach the strap edges to the sole. Use brown yarn to sew around the edge, creating the raised sandal rim.

Toe Lines

• With black yarn, embroider two vertical curved lines on each white foot.
• Each line should be about 5 rows tall.
• Place the lines under the sandal opening so the toes look separated.

Ladybug Accents

There is one red ladybug on top of the head and one small red ladybug on each sandal. Use the same tiny knitted oval for all three, changing the size only by tension.

Small Ladybug Body

1. With red yarn, CO 5 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: Kfb, K3, kfb. 7 sts.
5. Rows 4 to 6: Work in St st.
6. Row 7: K2tog, K3, ssk. 5 sts.
7. Row 8: P all sts.
8. Row 9: K2tog, K1, ssk. 3 sts.
9. Cut yarn and pull through remaining sts.

For the head ladybug, make the same oval but add 2 extra St st rows after Row 6 for a slightly larger shape. Sew a small black semicircle to one end for the head. Add black French-knot dots or tiny straight stitches on the red back.

• Sew the large ladybug to the crown of the head.
• Sew one small ladybug to the top of each sandal strap.
• Add one white stitch on the black head to create a tiny highlight.

Gold Neck Trim

The image shows a thin gold line at the neck. This can be made with gold cord, metallic yarn, or a simple knitted I-cord.

1. With gold yarn, CO 3 sts on double-pointed needles.
2. K3, slide stitches to the other needle end, and pull yarn across the back.
3. Repeat until the cord measures 7 inches.
4. BO all sts.

Wrap the cord around the base of the head where it meets the body. Sew invisibly at the back. Keep it loose enough that it looks like a soft collar, not a tight seam.

Crossbody Garden Bag

The tan bag sits across the body with a gold strap. It has a small flap and a white flower with a yellow center.

Bag Body

1. With tan yarn, CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: K all sts.
3. Rows 5 to 18: Work in St st, keeping first and last 2 sts in garter st.
4. Rows 19 to 22: K all sts.
5. BO all sts.

Fold the lower edge up 1.5 inches to form a pouch. Sew the side seams. Leave the top open.

Bag Flap

1. With tan yarn, CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: K all sts.
3. Row 5: K2, k2tog, K6, ssk, K2. 12 sts.
4. Row 6: K all sts.
5. Row 7: K2, k2tog, K4, ssk, K2. 10 sts.
6. Row 8: K all sts.
7. BO all sts.

Sew the flap to the back top edge of the pouch and fold it over the front. Tack it down lightly at the center.

Flower on Bag

• For the center, use yellow yarn and make 5 satin stitches in a small circle.
• For each white petal, embroider 3 long stitches radiating outward.
• Make 6 petals total.
• Place the flower on the center of the flap.

Bag Strap

1. With gold yarn, make a 3-stitch I-cord measuring 12 inches.
2. Sew one end to each side of the bag.
3. Place the strap over one shoulder and across the chest.
4. Tack the strap to the shirt with 2 hidden stitches so it stays in position.

Gray Garden Trowel

A tiny gray trowel peeks from the bag. It is flat and decorative.

1. With gray yarn, CO 5 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: Work in St st.
3. Row 7: K2tog, K1, ssk. 3 sts.
4. Row 8: P all sts.
5. Row 9: Slip 1, K2tog, pass slipped stitch over. 1 st.
6. Fasten off.
7. With tan yarn, CO 3 sts and knit 8 rows for the handle.
8. Sew the gray blade to the tan handle.

Slide the trowel into the left side of the bag and secure it with one hidden stitch.

Straw Garden Hat

The hat is placed beside the doll in the image. It has a flat brim, domed crown, and plaid ribbon band. This version uses garter texture to suggest woven straw.

Hat Brim

1. With tan yarn and 3.0 mm needles, CO 48 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 10: K all sts.
3. Row 11: K4, k2tog across to last 2 sts, K2. 40 sts.
4. Row 12: K all sts.
5. Row 13: K3, k2tog across to last 2 sts, K2. 33 sts.
6. Row 14: K all sts.
7. BO all sts loosely.

Join the short edges to form a circle. Sew the inside edge to the crown after the crown is made. Press the brim flat with your fingers.

Hat Crown

1. With tan yarn, CO 28 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: Work in St st.
3. Row 7: K5, k2tog, K14, ssk, K5. 26 sts.
4. Row 8: P all sts.
5. Row 9: K4, k2tog, K14, ssk, K4. 24 sts.
6. Row 10: P all sts.
7. Row 11: K3, k2tog, K14, ssk, K3. 22 sts.
8. Row 12: P all sts.
9. Row 13: K2tog across. 11 sts.
10. Cut yarn, thread through sts, pull tight.

Sew the crown seam and stuff very lightly, only enough to hold a dome. Sew the brim around the lower edge.

Plaid Hat Band

• Cut a red yarn strand long enough to wrap around the crown.
• Cut one green strand and one cream strand the same length.
• Couch the strands around the crown as a narrow band.
• Add tiny vertical black stitches every 0.5 inch to suggest plaid.

Watering Can

The small watering can is pale blue-gray and sits beside the doll. It has a ribbed body, curved handle, side spout, and little round rose.

Can Body

1. With pale blue-gray yarn, CO 20 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: K2, P2 rib across.
3. Rows 5 to 20: Continue K2, P2 rib.
4. Rows 21 to 24: K all sts.
5. BO all sts.

Sew the side seam. Gather the bottom edge and pull tight. Stuff lightly so the can stands upright. Gather the top slightly but leave a shallow opening.

Can Handle

1. With pale blue-gray yarn, CO 4 sts.
2. Knit every row until the strip measures 4 inches.
3. BO all sts.

Curve the strip into a handle and sew both ends to one side of the can. If the piece is decorative, insert a pipe cleaner inside the handle before sewing.

Spout

1. With pale blue-gray yarn, CO 6 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 10: Work in St st.
3. Row 11: K2tog, K2, ssk. 4 sts.
4. Row 12: P all sts.
5. BO all sts.

Roll the spout into a narrow cone and sew the seam. Attach it to the opposite side of the handle, angled upward. Make a tiny knob by wrapping yarn around the spout tip twice and securing it.

Vegetable Basket

The basket sits on the side and holds small knitted vegetables. It is tan with a soft handle and textured garter rows.

Basket Base

1. With tan yarn, CO 26 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 8: K all sts.
3. Rows 9 to 20: Work in St st, keeping first and last 3 sts in garter st.
4. Rows 21 to 26: K all sts.
5. BO all sts.

Fold the piece into a shallow oval basket. Sew the side edges. Gather the lower corners slightly to create a rounded base. Stuff only the bottom edge if you want it to stand open.

Basket Handle

1. With tan yarn, CO 4 sts.
2. Knit every row until the strip measures 6 inches.
3. BO all sts.

Sew the handle to opposite sides of the basket. Curve it gently upward.

Tomato

1. With red yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: Work in St st.
3. Row 7: K2tog across. 4 sts.
4. Cut yarn, gather, stuff lightly, and close into a ball.
5. Add 3 tiny green stitches on top for leaves.

Yellow Vegetable

1. With yellow yarn, CO 7 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 8: Work in St st.
3. Row 9: K2tog, K3, ssk. 5 sts.
4. Row 10: P all sts.
5. Gather and seam into a small oval.

Leafy Greens

• CO 4 sts in green.
• Knit 6 rows.
• BO all sts.
• Make 5 leaves total.
• Sew the leaves together at one end and place them inside the basket.

Optional Small Sitting Support

The pictured doll sits upright with the legs angled forward. If your toy tips backward, make a small hidden support pad for the bottom.

1. With denim blue or white yarn, CO 14 sts.
2. Knit every row for 12 rows.
3. BO all sts.
4. Sew the pad to the lower back of the seated body.

This pad should not show from the front. It simply gives the toy a stable seated shape for display.

Joining the Main Doll

1. Place the body upright with the shirt seam at the back.
2. Pin the head on top of the body, making sure the muzzle points slightly upward and forward.
3. Sew the head to the neck using white yarn and firm ladder stitches.
4. Attach the arms at the sides, directly below the shirt sleeves. Angle the arms downward.
5. Attach the legs to the lower front body, spaced about 1 inch apart.
6. Sew the blue overall panels securely around the body after the limbs are attached.
7. Add the overall bib and straps last so they hide joining stitches.

Check the toy from the front, sides, and top before final stitching. The ears should frame the head, the muzzle should be the widest front point, and the overalls should sit low over the rounded belly.

Detailed Proportion Guide

• Head width: About 1.35 times the body width.
• Muzzle length: About half the total head length from back dome to nose.
• Ear length: From side crown to just below the shoulder line.
• Body height: About 70 percent of head height.
• Leg length: Short and chunky, with feet extending forward.
• Arm length: Ends slightly above the top of the sandal area.
• Overall bib: Covers the center chest but leaves striped sleeves and shirt shoulders visible.

Facial Placement Measurements

Use these placement notes to keep the expression close to the image. Measure after the head is stuffed, because stuffing changes the final shape.

• Place the black nose at the front muzzle tip, about 2 rows above the horizontal center of the muzzle.
• Place the embroidered eye about 1.25 inches above the smile line.
• Place the smile beginning on the lower left muzzle and curving gently upward across about 2.25 inches.
• Place the ears behind the face line, not directly beside the nose.
• Place the head ladybug on the crown, centered slightly toward the front.

Texture Tips for a Photo-Like Finish

For the smooth white head, keep all seams neat and do not twist the fabric while stuffing. A toy this pale shows uneven tension more easily than darker yarn, so smooth the stitches with your fingers before final assembly.

For the overalls, lightly steam the blue panels before sewing if your yarn allows it. Do not flatten the toy itself. Steam only the separate clothing pieces, then let them dry completely before attachment.

• Use duplicate stitch for darker pocket lines if embroidery feels too raised.
• Use doubled yarn for sandal rims so they look chunky.
• Use one strand of embroidery floss for tiny black details.
• Use a curved needle if available when sewing the bag strap across the body.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Pin every major piece before sewing. Begin with the head and body, then add ears, arms, legs, clothing details, sandals, and accessories. Keep the front view balanced, with the bag strap crossing diagonally and the carrot sitting upright in the right front pocket.

• Brush away loose fiber before adding the eyes and smile.
• Secure the nose with small stitches all around the edge.
• Reinforce the head seam with a second round of hidden stitches.
• Attach buttons firmly, or replace them with embroidered circles for child-safe use.
• Place accessories around the doll for display, just like a garden scene.

Care Notes

Spot clean the finished doll with cool water and mild soap. Do not soak if you used metallic yarn, buttons, safety eyes, or pipe cleaners. Press with a towel and reshape the head, ears, and overalls while damp.

• Air dry flat on a clean towel.
• Do not tumble dry.
• Keep away from strong sunlight to protect the blue and red yarn.
• Store small accessories in a fabric bag when not displayed.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is large, smooth, and rounded.
• The muzzle projects forward with a soft oval shape.
• Both black ears hang evenly.
• The smile is long, curved, and clean.
• The striped shirt is visible under the overalls.
• The blue overalls have a bib, straps, buttons, pocket lines, and carrot.
• The sandals show white toes and black toe lines.
• Ladybugs are attached to the head and sandals.
• The crossbody bag sits at the front with a white flower.
• The hat, watering can, and vegetable basket are finished for display.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For long-term display, keep the knitted doll on a dry shelf away from dust, pets, and direct sunlight. If dust gathers, use a soft makeup brush or lint roller with very gentle pressure.

If the toy needs deeper cleaning, remove any loose display accessories first. Dab stained areas with a damp cloth, then blot with a dry towel. Avoid rubbing the embroidered smile, the ladybug dots, and the flower on the bag.

• Store the doll upright or seated so the muzzle does not flatten.
• Place tissue paper under the ears if storing in a box.
• Do not place heavy items on top of the hat brim.
• Check the buttons, bag strap, and basket handle occasionally and tighten loose stitches.