Knitting Tutorial: Goose Amigurumi in Floral Dress and Cardigan – Free Knitting Pattern

This charming knit goose amigurumi wears a cream floral dress, a blue and yellow patterned cardigan, green sandals, a small crossbody garden bag, and a white daisy flower on the head. The finished scene also includes tiny knitted garden accessories: a flower-trimmed straw hat, a gray watering can, and a little basket filled with colorful blooms.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written to recreate the goose shown in the image as closely as possible, using small-scale toy knitting methods, tight gauge, shaped pieces, careful embroidery, and layered accessories. The goose has a long rib-textured neck, rounded white head, orange beak, soft cream body, embroidered garden flowers along the dress hem, and a short open cardigan with stranded color details.

The instructions are detailed so that even a newer knitter can follow the shaping. Work slowly, stuff gradually, and check the position of every piece before sewing. The finished goose is designed to sit at the edge of a shelf or table with dangling orange legs and green sandals.

Finished Size

• Finished seated height: about 10.5 in / 27 cm from top of flower to dress hem.
• Head width: about 2.25 in / 5.5 cm.
• Neck height: about 3.25 in / 8 cm.
• Body height under dress: about 4 in / 10 cm.
• Leg length: about 2.25 in / 5.5 cm.
• Cardigan width across front: about 4.75 in / 12 cm.
• Crossbody bag: about 1.4 in / 3.5 cm wide.

Skill Level

Intermediate beginner to intermediate. You should know how to knit, purl, increase, decrease, knit small pieces flat, seam neatly, make simple I-cord, embroider small details, and sew toy parts together. The cardigan colorwork is simple and can be embroidered afterward if you prefer not to strand colors while knitting.

Materials

• Sport or light DK yarn, cream: 35 g for goose body, head, neck, wings, and dress.
• Sport or light DK yarn, white: 4 g for head daisy petals.
• Sport or light DK yarn, orange: 8 g for beak, feet, and legs.
• Sport or light DK yarn, blue: 12 g for cardigan body.
• Sport or light DK yarn, yellow: 4 g for cardigan motifs and flower centers.
• Sport or light DK yarn, green: 8 g for cardigan accents, sandals, bag stripes, leaves, and embroidery.
• Sport or light DK yarn, pale pink: 5 g for cheek blush and bag stripes.
• Sport or light DK yarn, beige or straw: 10 g for hat, basket, and bag strap.
• Sport or light DK yarn, gray: 5 g for watering can.
• Small scraps: red, coral, lavender, blue, yellow, and white for embroidered flowers.
• Needles: US 2 / 2.75 mm double-pointed needles or circular needles for small circumference knitting.
• Optional smaller needles: US 1 / 2.25 mm for sandals, flowers, and firm accessories.
• Fiberfill stuffing: soft toy stuffing.
• Safety eyes: two black 5 mm eyes, or black yarn for embroidered eyes.
• Buttons: four small 6 mm beige buttons for cardigan and one tiny pale green button for each sandal if desired.
• Tapestry needle: for seaming and embroidery.
• Stitch markers: at least 4.
• Embroidery needle: sharp enough for small flower stems.
• Optional: a tiny wooden bead for the bag charm.

Gauge

Gauge is important because this toy must be firm enough to hold shape. In stockinette stitch using US 2 / 2.75 mm needles, aim for 7 stitches and 10 rows per 1 inch / 2.5 cm. Your stitches should look dense, with no visible stuffing between them.

If your fabric is loose, use smaller needles. If your toy becomes much smaller but firm, keep working with your gauge and adjust only the accessory positions during assembly.

Abbreviations

• CO: cast on.
• BO: bind off.
• k: knit.
• p: purl.
• st / sts: stitch / stitches.
• RS: right side.
• WS: wrong side.
• kfb: knit into the front and back of the same stitch, increasing 1 stitch.
• m1: make 1 stitch by lifting the strand between stitches and knitting through the back loop.
• k2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
• ssk: slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, knit slipped stitches together through back loops.
• p2tog: purl 2 stitches together.
• St st: stockinette stitch, knit RS rows and purl WS rows when working flat.
• Garter stitch: knit every row when working flat.
• I-cord: knit stitches across, slide them back to the other needle end, and knit again without turning.

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Construction Notes

The goose body, neck, and head are worked separately so the long elegant shape is easier to control. The dress is knitted as a cream flared skirt and sewn around the lower body. The cardigan is a separate open-front garment with sleeves. The accessories are all small knitted pieces added after the main doll is complete.

For a close match to the image, keep the goose upright, with the neck rising from the center of the body and the head leaning only slightly forward. The beak should project straight out from the lower front of the face, not upward. The cardigan should sit open at the center front, showing the cream body underneath.

Main Goose Body

Work the body in cream. The body should be pear-shaped, narrow at the neck opening, widest around the lower belly, and slightly flattened at the bottom so the goose can sit. Work in the round if comfortable. If working flat, seam the back neatly after stuffing.

Body in the Round

1. CO 8 sts in cream. Divide over double-pointed needles and join in the round.
2. Round 1: k all 8 sts.
3. Round 2: kfb in every st around. You now have 16 sts.
4. Round 3: k all sts.
5. Round 4: *k1, kfb; repeat from * around. You now have 24 sts.
6. Round 5: k all sts.
7. Round 6: *k2, kfb; repeat from * around. You now have 32 sts.
8. Round 7: k all sts.
9. Round 8: *k3, kfb; repeat from * around. You now have 40 sts.
10. Rounds 9-15: k all sts for 7 rounds.
11. Round 16: *k4, kfb; repeat from * around. You now have 48 sts.
12. Rounds 17-24: k all sts for 8 rounds.
13. Round 25: *k6, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 42 sts.
14. Rounds 26-29: k all sts for 4 rounds.
15. Round 30: *k5, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 36 sts.
16. Rounds 31-33: k all sts for 3 rounds.
17. Round 34: *k4, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 30 sts.
18. Rounds 35-36: k all sts for 2 rounds.
19. Round 37: *k3, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 24 sts.
20. Round 38: k all sts.
21. Round 39: *k2, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 18 sts.
22. Stuff the body firmly, especially the lower belly. Do not overstuff the top neck opening.
23. Round 40: *k1, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 12 sts.
24. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull closed, and secure. This closed top will sit under the long neck.

Flattened Sitting Base

To help the goose sit neatly on a table edge, make a flat base patch in cream and sew it under the body after stuffing.

1. CO 12 sts in cream.
2. Rows 1-2: k all sts.
3. Row 3: k1, kfb, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. You now have 14 sts.
4. Rows 4-8: k all sts.
5. Row 9: k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. You now have 12 sts.
6. Rows 10-11: k all sts.
7. BO all sts, leaving a long tail.
8. Sew the patch to the lower underside of the body, pulling the edges slightly to create a stable oval base.

Long Ribbed Neck

The neck in the image is tall, narrow, and textured with vertical ribbing. Use a firm 2 x 2 rib so the neck looks slim but structured. Stuff the neck lightly as you work so it remains straight.

1. CO 24 sts in cream. Join in the round carefully.
2. Rounds 1-34: *k2, p2; repeat from * around.
3. Round 35: *k2, p2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 18 sts.
4. Rounds 36-39: *k2, p1; repeat from * around.
5. Round 40: k all sts.
6. BO all sts loosely, leaving a long sewing tail.

Stuff the neck gently with thin pieces of fiberfill. It should be full but not stretched. Sew the bottom edge to the top center of the body. Angle the neck very slightly backward at the base and slightly forward at the top for a natural goose pose.

Rounded Goose Head

The head is round with a soft oval crown. The daisy sits above one eye, so keep the upper left side smooth enough for the flower. Place the eyes before fully closing the head if using safety eyes.

1. CO 8 sts in cream and join in the round.
2. Round 1: k all sts.
3. Round 2: kfb in each st around. You now have 16 sts.
4. Round 3: k all sts.
5. Round 4: *k1, kfb; repeat from * around. You now have 24 sts.
6. Round 5: k all sts.
7. Round 6: *k2, kfb; repeat from * around. You now have 32 sts.
8. Rounds 7-14: k all sts for 8 rounds.
9. Round 15: *k6, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 28 sts.
10. Round 16: k all sts.
11. Round 17: *k5, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 24 sts.
12. Round 18: k all sts.
13. Insert safety eyes between Rounds 10 and 11, about 8 sts apart. The visible eye on the flower side should sit slightly below the daisy.
14. Round 19: *k2, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 18 sts.
15. Stuff the head firmly, shaping it into a rounded oval.
16. Round 20: *k1, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 12 sts.
17. Round 21: k2tog around. You now have 6 sts.
18. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull closed, and weave in.

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Sew the lower back portion of the head to the top of the neck, keeping the face forward. The head should not wobble. Use several secure stitches through the lower head and upper neck.

Orange Beak

The beak is wide, slightly flattened, and rounded at the end. It should sit horizontally across the lower face. The top edge begins just below the eyes.

1. CO 8 sts in orange.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Row 3: kfb, k6, kfb. You now have 10 sts.
5. Row 4: p all sts.
6. Row 5: kfb, k8, kfb. You now have 12 sts.
7. Rows 6-8: work in St st, beginning with a p row.
8. Row 9: k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. You now have 10 sts.
9. Row 10: p all sts.
10. Row 11: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. You now have 8 sts.
11. Row 12: p all sts.
12. BO all sts, leaving a long tail.

Make a second matching beak piece. Place the two pieces together with wrong sides touching. Sew around the edge, lightly stuffing only the center. Leave the back edge open until you position it on the face. Sew the beak across the front of the head between Rounds 11 and 16. Use orange yarn to make two short horizontal nostril stitches near the top front.

Cheeks and Face Details

• With pale pink yarn, embroider a small oval cheek under each eye using 5 horizontal satin stitches.
• Keep the cheek on the flower side partly hidden under the daisy, matching the image.
• If you did not use safety eyes, embroider each eye with black yarn using 3 small vertical stitches and one tiny white highlight stitch.
• Do not add a mouth. The beak shape provides the expression.

Wings

The wings are small and cream-colored. In the image they sit under the cardigan sleeves, with only the white tips showing below the cuffs. Knit two identical wings.

1. CO 8 sts in cream.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Row 3: kfb, k6, kfb. You now have 10 sts.
5. Row 4: p all sts.
6. Row 5: k all sts.
7. Row 6: p all sts.
8. Row 7: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. You now have 8 sts.
9. Row 8: p all sts.
10. Row 9: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. You now have 6 sts.
11. Row 10: p all sts.
12. Row 11: k1, ssk, k2tog, k1. You now have 4 sts.
13. BO all sts.

Sew each wing to the side of the upper body, starting just below the cardigan shoulder line. The pointed end should angle downward. Let the lower wing tip peek out slightly from the cardigan sleeve.

Orange Legs

The legs are slim and long enough to dangle below the dress hem. Knit two legs in orange.

1. CO 12 sts in orange and join in the round.
2. Rounds 1-18: k all sts.
3. Round 19: *k2, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 9 sts.
4. Round 20: k all sts.
5. Stuff very lightly using a thin strand of fiberfill.
6. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull closed, and secure.

Sew the open upper end of each leg to the lower front underside of the body, spacing them about 1.25 in / 3 cm apart. The legs should hang straight down when the goose is seated.

Orange Feet

The feet are oval and slightly flattened, with the green sandal straps sewn on later. Knit two feet.

1. CO 6 sts in orange.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Row 3: kfb, k4, kfb. You now have 8 sts.
5. Row 4: p all sts.
6. Row 5: kfb, k6, kfb. You now have 10 sts.
7. Rows 6-10: work in St st, beginning with a p row.
8. Row 11: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. You now have 8 sts.
9. Row 12: p all sts.
10. Row 13: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. You now have 6 sts.
11. BO all sts, leaving a long tail.

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Fold each foot lengthwise very slightly so the center is raised. Sew the cast-on edge to the bottom of each leg. The toe end should face forward and angle outward just a little.

Green Sandals

The sandals in the image are green with light edging and small pale buttons. Each sandal has a sole band and an upper strap.

Sandal Sole Edging

1. With green yarn and smaller needles, CO 18 sts.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. BO all sts loosely.
4. Wrap this strip around the edge of one orange foot and sew it in place as a raised green sole.
5. Repeat for the second foot.

Front Sandal Strap

1. CO 10 sts in green.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: k all sts.
4. BO all sts.
5. Sew the strap across the top front of the foot, from one side of the sole edging to the other.
6. Add one tiny pale green or cream button on the outside edge of each sandal.

Cream Floral Dress

The dress is cream and simple, with a flared skirt, rounded hem, and garden flower embroidery around the lower front. It should cover the body from the upper chest to just above the legs. The image shows the skirt slightly bell-shaped, with a soft rolled edge at the hem.

Dress Skirt

1. CO 64 sts in cream.
2. Rows 1-4: k all sts to make a garter hem.
3. Row 5: k all sts.
4. Row 6: p all sts.
5. Rows 7-18: continue in St st for 12 rows.
6. Row 19: *k6, k2tog; repeat from * across. You now have 56 sts.
7. Row 20: p all sts.
8. Rows 21-26: continue in St st for 6 rows.
9. Row 27: *k5, k2tog; repeat from * across. You now have 48 sts.
10. Row 28: p all sts.
11. Rows 29-34: continue in St st for 6 rows.
12. Row 35: *k4, k2tog; repeat from * across. You now have 40 sts.
13. Row 36: p all sts.
14. Rows 37-40: continue in St st for 4 rows.
15. Row 41: *k3, k2tog; repeat from * across. You now have 32 sts.
16. Rows 42-44: work in garter stitch.
17. BO all sts, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Wrap the skirt around the body with the seam at the back. The garter hem should sit just above the orange legs. Sew the back seam, then stitch the upper edge to the body using small hidden stitches.

Dress Bodice Front Panel

The cardigan will cover most of the bodice, but a cream center panel should show at the front opening.

1. CO 16 sts in cream.
2. Rows 1-16: work in St st.
3. Row 17: k1, ssk, k10, k2tog, k1. You now have 14 sts.
4. Row 18: p all sts.
5. Row 19: k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. You now have 12 sts.
6. Rows 20-22: work in St st.
7. BO all sts.

Sew this panel to the front upper body, tucking the lower edge slightly beneath the skirt top. This creates the smooth cream front seen below the open cardigan.

Embroidered Garden Flowers on Dress

The lower dress has scattered floral embroidery in red, yellow, blue, pink, lavender, and green. Keep the embroidery concentrated along the front hem, with taller stems near the center and smaller flowers toward the sides.

• Stems: Use green yarn or embroidery floss. Make straight stitches from the hem upward, about 0.4-0.8 in / 1-2 cm tall.
• Leaves: Add 2 small diagonal stitches on each side of selected stems.
• Red flowers: Make 5 long lazy-daisy stitches around a center point.
• Yellow flowers: Make 5 short straight stitches radiating from the center.
• Blue flowers: Use 4 tiny detached chain stitches.
• Pink buds: Make 2 small satin stitches at the top of a green stem.
• Lavender flowers: Use 3 tiny vertical stitches grouped together.

Place one red flower on the lower right front, one coral flower near the lower left front, several yellow blossoms near the center, and tiny blue and pink blooms between them. Do not make the embroidery too dense; the cream dress should remain visible.

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Blue Floral Cardigan

The cardigan is short, open-front, blue-based, and patterned with yellow and green floral colorwork. It has ribbed edges, rounded front bands, and three to four small buttons down the front. The sleeves are loose and end near the white wing tips.

You can knit the color pattern as stranded colorwork or knit the cardigan plain blue and embroider the motifs afterward. For a beginner-friendly result, the instructions below use a blue cardigan base with duplicate stitch and embroidery for the yellow and green motifs.

Cardigan Back

1. CO 34 sts in blue.
2. Rows 1-4: *k1, p1; repeat from * across for ribbing.
3. Row 5: k all sts.
4. Row 6: p all sts.
5. Rows 7-24: continue in St st.
6. Row 25: BO 3 sts, k to end. You now have 31 sts.
7. Row 26: BO 3 sts, p to end. You now have 28 sts.
8. Rows 27-32: continue in St st.
9. Row 33: k8, BO 12 sts, k8.
10. Place the first 8 shoulder sts on a holder and the second 8 shoulder sts on another holder.

Left Front

1. CO 18 sts in blue.
2. Rows 1-4: *k1, p1; repeat from * across.
3. Rows 5-20: work in St st.
4. Row 21: BO 3 sts at armhole edge, knit to end. You now have 15 sts.
5. Row 22: p all sts.
6. Row 23: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. You now have 14 sts.
7. Row 24: p all sts.
8. Row 25: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. You now have 13 sts.
9. Rows 26-30: work in St st.
10. Row 31: BO 5 sts at neck edge, k to end. You now have 8 sts.
11. Row 32: p all sts.
12. Leave 8 shoulder sts on a holder.

Right Front

1. CO 18 sts in blue.
2. Rows 1-4: *k1, p1; repeat from * across.
3. Rows 5-20: work in St st.
4. Row 21: k to end after binding off 3 sts at armhole edge. You now have 15 sts.
5. Row 22: p all sts.
6. Row 23: k1, ssk, k to end. You now have 14 sts.
7. Row 24: p all sts.
8. Row 25: k1, ssk, k to end. You now have 13 sts.
9. Rows 26-30: work in St st.
10. Row 31: BO 5 sts at neck edge, k to end. You now have 8 sts.
11. Row 32: p all sts.
12. Leave 8 shoulder sts on a holder.

Join Shoulders

1. Place one front shoulder against the matching back shoulder with right sides together.
2. Use a three-needle bind off or sew the shoulder seam with mattress stitch.
3. Repeat for the second shoulder.
4. Weave in ends neatly on the inside.

Cardigan Sleeves

Make two sleeves. The sleeves are slightly wide, ending with green cuffs as seen in the image.

1. CO 22 sts in blue.
2. Rows 1-4: *k1, p1; repeat from * across using green for a cuff.
3. Change to blue.
4. Row 5: k all sts.
5. Row 6: p all sts.
6. Row 7: k1, m1, k20, m1, k1. You now have 24 sts.
7. Rows 8-16: work in St st.
8. Row 17: k1, m1, k22, m1, k1. You now have 26 sts.
9. Rows 18-22: work in St st.
10. BO all sts loosely.

Sew each sleeve seam. Set the sleeves into the cardigan armholes, matching the sleeve center to the shoulder seam. The cuffs should sit low enough to cover the top of each wing.

Front Bands and Neck Edging

1. With blue yarn, pick up and knit 22 sts along the right front edge, 16 sts around the neck, and 22 sts along the left front edge. You now have about 60 sts.
2. Row 1: *k1, p1; repeat from * across.
3. Row 2: repeat ribbing.
4. Row 3: repeat ribbing, making 4 buttonholes on one front edge by working k2tog, yarn over at evenly spaced points.
5. Row 4: repeat ribbing.
6. BO all sts in rib.

Sew four small beige buttons to the opposite front band. The cardigan should close slightly but remain open enough to show the cream dress and body underneath.

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Cardigan Floral Motifs

Use duplicate stitch and embroidery to copy the yellow and green garden pattern from the image. Keep the motifs soft and scattered, not perfectly symmetrical.

• On each front panel, embroider one large yellow flower shape using 5 duplicate-stitch petals.
• Add green leaf stitches around each yellow motif.
• Place small yellow V-shapes on the sleeves and near the shoulders.
• Add darker green short stitches along the lower cardigan edge.
• Use blue yarn to secure floats or loose embroidery ends on the inside.

For each large yellow flower, work one center stitch, then 5 petal stitches around it. Each petal should cover 1 knitted stitch wide and 2 rows tall. Add 2 green diagonal stitches on each side of the flower.

White Daisy Head Flower

The flower on the goose’s head is white with a yellow center. It sits above one eye, slightly to the viewer’s left. Make it small but bold enough to be visible.

Daisy Center

1. CO 6 sts in yellow.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Cut yarn, thread through sts, pull into a tiny circle, and secure.

Daisy Petals

Make 7 small petals in white.

1. CO 3 sts in white.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Row 3: k1, kfb, k1. You now have 4 sts.
5. Row 4: p all sts.
6. Row 5: k2tog twice. You now have 2 sts.
7. Row 6: p2tog. You now have 1 st.
8. Fasten off.

Sew the 7 petals around the yellow center. Attach the finished daisy to the top side of the head. It should overlap the head slightly and sit near the eye, just like a hair accessory.

Crossbody Garden Bag

The bag is small, rectangular, and striped in pink, green, and cream. It hangs from a beige strap across the goose’s chest. A small bead or knitted charm sits near one side.

Bag Front and Back

1. CO 14 sts in pale pink.
2. Rows 1-2: k all sts.
3. Change to cream.
4. Rows 3-4: work in St st.
5. Change to green.
6. Rows 5-6: work in St st.
7. Change to cream.
8. Rows 7-8: work in St st.
9. Change to green.
10. Rows 9-10: work in St st.
11. Change to pale pink.
12. Rows 11-12: k all sts.
13. BO all sts.

Make a second matching piece. Place both pieces wrong sides together and sew around the sides and bottom. Leave the top open. Add one row of small running stitches around the top edge in pale pink.

Bag Strap

1. Using beige yarn, make a 3-stitch I-cord for 13 in / 33 cm.
2. BO all sts.
3. Sew one strap end to each side of the bag.
4. Place the strap diagonally from one shoulder to the opposite hip, crossing over the cardigan.

Add a tiny wooden bead or a small knitted brown bobble near one side of the strap. To knit a bobble, CO 4 sts in brown, knit 2 rows, thread yarn through the stitches, stuff with yarn scraps, pull closed, and sew to the bag side.

Flower-Trimmed Straw Hat

The little hat sits beside the goose in the image. It is a flat beige garden hat with a rounded crown, wide brim, and tiny flowers around the brim.

Hat Crown

1. CO 8 sts in beige and join in the round.
2. Round 1: k all sts.
3. Round 2: kfb around. You now have 16 sts.
4. Round 3: k all sts.
5. Round 4: *k1, kfb; repeat from * around. You now have 24 sts.
6. Rounds 5-10: k all sts.
7. Round 11: *k2, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 18 sts.
8. Stuff very lightly with yarn scraps only if needed.
9. BO loosely.

Hat Brim

1. CO 56 sts in beige.
2. Rows 1-6: k all sts.
3. Row 7: *k5, k2tog; repeat from * across. You now have 48 sts.
4. Row 8: k all sts.
5. BO all sts loosely.

Sew the crown to the center of the brim. With green yarn, embroider a leafy band around the base of the crown. Add small white, yellow, pink, and coral flowers around the brim using lazy-daisy stitches.

Small Gray Watering Can

The watering can is a tiny gray prop placed near the goose. Keep it simple: a rounded can body, a short spout, and a handle.

Watering Can Body

1. CO 18 sts in gray and join in the round.
2. Rounds 1-8: k all sts.
3. Round 9: *k1, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 12 sts.
4. Round 10: k all sts.
5. Stuff lightly.
6. Round 11: k2tog around. You now have 6 sts.
7. Cut yarn, thread through sts, and close.

Watering Can Spout

1. CO 5 sts in gray.
2. Work a 5-stitch I-cord for 7 rows.
3. BO all sts.
4. Sew one end to the side of the can and angle the spout slightly upward.

Watering Can Handle

1. CO 4 sts in gray.
2. Work a 4-stitch I-cord for 12 rows.
3. BO all sts.
4. Curve into a handle and sew both ends to the opposite side of the can.

Mini Flower Basket

The basket is tan with a handle and colorful flower balls inside. It should sit beside the watering can as part of the garden scene.

Basket Base and Sides

1. CO 18 sts in tan or beige.
2. Rows 1-4: k all sts.
3. Rows 5-12: work in St st.
4. Rows 13-14: k all sts.
5. BO all sts.
6. Fold the piece into a shallow cup shape and sew the side seam.
7. Gather the bottom edge slightly and secure.

Basket Handle

1. Make a 3-stitch I-cord for 5 in / 12.5 cm.
2. Sew one end to each side of the basket.
3. Curve the handle upright.

Basket Flowers

• Make 5 tiny flower knots in pink, blue, yellow, lavender, and white.
• For each flower, CO 4 sts, knit 1 row, cut yarn, thread through sts, pull tight, and shape into a small rosette.
• Sew the flowers into the basket opening.
• Add green yarn scraps between flowers as leaves.

Optional White Hand Tips

If the cardigan sleeves cover the wings too much, make two small white hand tips to show at the sleeve ends. These are tiny oval pieces sewn below the cuff.

1. CO 5 sts in cream.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Row 3: kfb, k3, kfb. You now have 7 sts.
5. Row 4: p all sts.
6. Row 5: k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1. You now have 5 sts.
7. BO all sts.
8. Sew one tip beneath each sleeve cuff.

Assembly Order

1. Knit and stuff the body first.
2. Sew the flattened base patch to the underside.
3. Knit, stuff, and attach the ribbed neck.
4. Knit and stuff the head, then sew it securely to the neck.
5. Make and attach the orange beak.
6. Add eyes, cheeks, and subtle face details.
7. Knit and attach the wings to the upper body.
8. Knit the legs and feet, then sew the feet to the legs.
9. Attach the legs to the lower body so they dangle evenly.
10. Add the green sandal soles, straps, and tiny buttons.
11. Knit the dress skirt and bodice panel, then sew them to the body.
12. Embroider the floral garden design around the dress hem.
13. Knit the cardigan pieces, seam them, add bands, buttons, and motifs.
14. Dress the goose in the cardigan and sew it discreetly at the shoulders if needed.
15. Add the head daisy, crossbody bag, hat, watering can, and basket.

Detailed Sewing and Placement Guide

The neck should be centered over the body, but it should not look stiff like a tube. While sewing, pinch the back of the neck slightly into the body so the front remains tall and smooth. This creates the elegant goose posture shown in the image.

The head should sit directly on top of the neck, with the beak centered above the chest. Before sewing fully, hold the cardigan against the body to confirm the face points toward the open front of the garment.

The dress hem should flare gently outward. Do not pull the lower edge tight against the legs. The image shows a rounded, soft hem that frames the orange legs and green sandals.

The cardigan should look slightly oversized, like a cozy garden sweater. The sleeves may puff a little at the sides. This is correct and helps the goose look soft and handmade.

Cardigan Color Placement Chart in Words

Use this simple guide if you want the cardigan to resemble the image closely without needing a chart. Work the motifs after knitting, using duplicate stitch and small embroidery stitches.

• Left front upper area: add 1 yellow flower with 2 green leaf stitches.
• Left front lower area: add 2 green vine stitches and 2 small yellow dashes.
• Right front upper area: add 1 yellow flower cluster and 1 green diagonal leaf group.
• Right front lower area: add 3 small red or pink berry stitches near the hem.
• Sleeves: add yellow and green diagonal stitches in short rows, keeping the cuffs mostly green.
• Back: add a few scattered yellow and green duplicate stitches, but keep the back less busy than the front.

Beginner Tips for Toy Knitting

• Use smaller needles than the yarn label recommends so the stuffing does not show.
• Stuff in tiny pieces instead of large clumps.
• Shape the body with your hands while stuffing.
• Pin every piece before sewing it permanently.
• Use the same yarn color as the piece when seaming.
• Hide yarn tails inside the body whenever possible.
• Keep embroidery knots small and secure on the wrong side.

How to Make the Goose Look Like the Image

The most important feature is the contrast between the cream goose, the orange beak and legs, and the colorful garden outfit. Keep the cream areas clean and soft. Keep the orange beak wide and rounded. Keep the cardigan bright but not too bulky.

For the dress embroidery, vary the flower heights. Some stems should be short, while others should reach higher toward the center of the skirt. This creates the natural meadow effect visible around the lower hem.

The accessories make the design special. The straw hat should look flat and wide. The bag should hang across the body, not straight down from the shoulder. The watering can and basket should be small enough to feel like props, not main pieces.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check that the head, neck, and body line up before finishing. The beak should point forward, the eyes should sit evenly, and the daisy should rest slightly above one eye. Add the pink cheek stitches last so they stay clean and visible.

• Secure the cardigan with a few hidden stitches at the shoulders.
• Tack the bag strap to the shoulder so it does not slide.
• Brush loose fibers gently with your fingers only.
• Trim any visible yarn tails close to the fabric.

Care Notes

This goose amigurumi is best used as a decorative handmade toy. Because it has small buttons, beads, and accessories, it is not suitable for babies or pets. Display it indoors away from direct sunlight and moisture.

• Spot clean only with a damp cloth.
• Do not machine wash if buttons, beads, or safety eyes are attached.
• Let the toy air dry completely after cleaning.
• Reshape the dress, cardigan, and neck while damp if needed.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The neck is tall, ribbed, and firmly attached.
• The beak is orange, wide, rounded, and centered.
• The cheeks are soft pink and placed under the eyes.
• The dress has a cream flared hem with embroidered flowers.
• The cardigan is blue with yellow and green garden motifs.
• The sandals are green and fitted over orange feet.
• The crossbody bag hangs diagonally across the chest.
• The daisy flower sits above one eye.
• The hat, watering can, and basket are finished as matching props.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the goose upright or seated so the neck does not bend over time. If the cardigan gathers dust, use a soft dry brush and gently sweep in the direction of the stitches. Avoid rubbing embroidered flowers because small stitches can loosen.

For long-term storage, wrap the goose loosely in clean tissue paper and place it in a breathable box. Do not compress the beak, flower, or accessories. Keep it away from strong perfume, damp cupboards, and direct heat.

If the legs or sandals shift after handling, gently rotate them back into position and press the soles flat with your fingers. The small accessories can be stored beside the goose or lightly stitched to a display mat for safety.