Knitting Tutorial: Highland Cow Amigurumi in Green Cable Knit Cardigan – Free Knitting Pattern

This friendly knitted Highland cow amigurumi has a warm golden-brown body, shaggy orange forelock, curved cream horns, rounded ears, a soft pink muzzle, and a cozy woodland outfit. The doll wears a sage green cable knit cardigan with small buttons, a tweedy brown skirt, ankle shoes with flower accents, a crossbody fox bag, and comes with a matching green pom-pom hat, a tiny mushroom, and a little yarn basket.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written for knitters who enjoy detailed toy construction. The Highland cow is worked in small pieces, stuffed firmly, and assembled carefully so the finished doll has the same soft seated shape, rounded head, short arms, sturdy legs, and handmade woodland charm shown in the image.

The body uses smooth stockinette for the animal base, while the clothing adds texture through ribbing, cables, seed stitch, and speckled color work. The cardigan is knitted separately so it sits over the body with a real layered look, and the skirt is attached at the waist under the sweater hem.

• Finished height: about 12 inches from shoes to top of hair, not including horns.
• Finished seated width: about 6 inches across the arms.
• Skill level: confident beginner to intermediate.
• Construction: mostly knitted flat with seaming, plus small pieces worked in the round where helpful.
• Main look: Highland cow doll with green cabled cardigan, brown tweed skirt, fox bag, hat, mushroom, and yarn basket.

Materials

• Worsted weight yarn, golden brown: 90 yards for head, body, arms, legs, ears, and shoes base.
• Worsted weight yarn, rust orange: 35 yards for shaggy hair, tail tuft, and small flower details.
• Worsted weight yarn, pale pink: 12 yards for the muzzle.
• Worsted weight yarn, cream: 15 yards for horns and mushroom stem.
• Worsted weight yarn, dark brown: 20 yards for horn tips, shoe soles, shoe straps, and small accents.
• DK or light worsted yarn, sage green: 75 yards for cardigan, hat, bag flap, and shoe leaves.
• DK or light worsted yarn, tweed brown: 45 yards for the skirt and basket.
• Small amounts of white and black yarn: for fox face embroidery and eye highlights.
• Safety eyes: two 6 mm black safety eyes, or black embroidery yarn.
• Buttons: four small 8 mm wooden-look buttons for cardigan front.
• One 6 mm button: optional for the bag closure.
• Fiberfill stuffing: enough for a firm doll shape.
• Knitting needles: US 3, 3.25 mm, for toy pieces.
• Knitting needles: US 4, 3.5 mm, for cardigan and hat.
• DPNs or circular needles: US 3 and US 4, optional for small round pieces.
• Cable needle: for cardigan and hat cables.
• Tapestry needle: for seaming and embroidery.
• Stitch markers, row counter, pins, scissors, and measuring tape.

Gauge

Gauge is important because this doll needs firm fabric that holds stuffing without gaps. Knit a small swatch in stockinette with the golden-brown yarn and US 3 needles. Aim for a dense but not stiff fabric.

• Toy gauge: 6 stitches and 8 rows per 1 inch in stockinette.
• Cardigan gauge: 5.5 stitches and 7 rows per 1 inch in stockinette with US 4 needles.
• Exact gauge is less important than firm fabric. Use smaller needles if stuffing shows through.

Abbreviations

• CO: cast on.
• BO: bind off.
• K: knit.
• P: purl.
• Sts: stitches.
• RS: right side.
• WS: wrong side.
• K2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
• P2tog: purl 2 stitches together.
• Kfb: knit into the front and back of the same stitch.
• SSK: slip, slip, knit slipped stitches together.
• M1: make 1 stitch by lifting the bar between stitches and knitting through the back loop.
• C4F: slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold in front, K2, then K2 from cable needle.
• C4B: slip 2 stitches to cable needle and hold in back, K2, then K2 from cable needle.
• Seed stitch: alternate K1, P1, then reverse on the next row.

Helpful Notes Before Starting

All toy pieces are knitted with a tight gauge. Leave long tails when casting on and binding off because those tails can be used for seaming. Stuff each piece gradually, adding small amounts at a time. The head and body should be firm, while ears, horns, cardigan, skirt, hat, and bag should stay mostly flat.

The Highland cow has a slightly oversized head compared with the body. The muzzle sits low on the face, the eyes sit above the muzzle, and the shaggy hair falls forward over the forehead. This placement gives the doll the same sweet woodland personality seen in the image.

• Use mattress stitch for neat side seams.
• Use whipstitch for small decorative pieces.
• Use pins to test placement before sewing permanently.
• Shape the head with stuffing, not with loose seams.
• Keep the cardigan slightly open in front so the buttons remain visible.

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Head

The head is knitted flat from the lower face upward, then seamed at the back. It should become a round, slightly wide cow head with a gently flattened front where the muzzle will be sewn.

1. With golden brown yarn and US 3 needles, CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl all sts.
3. Row 2: Kfb in each st across. You now have 20 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl all sts.
5. Row 4: K1, Kfb, repeat across to last 0 sts. You now have 30 sts.
6. Row 5: Purl all sts.
7. Row 6: K2, Kfb, repeat across. You now have 40 sts.
8. Row 7: Purl all sts.
9. Row 8: K3, Kfb, repeat across. You now have 50 sts.
10. Rows 9-24: Work in stockinette, purling WS rows and knitting RS rows.
11. Row 25: K8, K2tog, repeat across. You now have 45 sts.
12. Row 26: Purl all sts.
13. Row 27: K7, K2tog, repeat across. You now have 40 sts.
14. Row 28: Purl all sts.
15. Row 29: K6, K2tog, repeat across. You now have 35 sts.
16. Row 30: Purl all sts.
17. Row 31: K5, K2tog, repeat across. You now have 30 sts.
18. Row 32: Purl all sts.
19. Row 33: K4, K2tog, repeat across. You now have 25 sts.
20. Row 34: Purl all sts.
21. Row 35: K3, K2tog, repeat across. You now have 20 sts.
22. Row 36: Purl all sts.
23. Row 37: K2tog across. You now have 10 sts.
24. Cut yarn, leaving a 14 inch tail. Thread through remaining sts, pull tight, and secure.

Fold the head with right sides facing and sew the back seam from crown to lower edge. Turn right side out. Stuff firmly, shaping the front into a rounded oval. Close the lower opening with gathering stitches, but leave a small flat area where the neck will attach.

Pink Muzzle Patch

The muzzle is a soft pale pink oval that covers the lower center of the face. It is wide and rounded, with vertical knit lines visible from top to bottom.

1. With pale pink yarn and US 3 needles, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl all sts.
3. Row 2: Kfb, K6, Kfb. You now have 10 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl all sts.
5. Row 4: Kfb, K8, Kfb. You now have 12 sts.
6. Rows 5-12: Work in stockinette.
7. Row 13: P2tog, P8, P2tog. You now have 10 sts.
8. Row 14: K2tog, K6, K2tog. You now have 8 sts.
9. Row 15: P2tog, P4, P2tog. You now have 6 sts.
10. BO all sts, leaving a 16 inch sewing tail.

Pin the muzzle to the lower front of the head. The top of the muzzle should sit just below the eye line, and the bottom should curve around the lower face. Sew around the edge using tiny whipstitches. Add a small amount of stuffing under the center before closing the final inch.

Eyes and Face

• Place the eyes 5 stitches above the top edge of the muzzle.
• Leave about 9 stitches between the eyes.
• Use 6 mm black safety eyes or embroider each eye with 6 satin stitches.
• With dark brown yarn, make one tiny vertical nostril on each side of the pink muzzle.
• With black yarn, make a tiny smiling mouth using one short vertical stitch and two curved side stitches.

For the gentle expression in the image, keep the eyes small and widely spaced. Do not make the mouth large. The pink muzzle should remain the main facial feature, while the black eyes look like small beads peeking out from under the shaggy hair.

Shaggy Forelock Hair

The Highland cow’s orange forelock is made from many yarn strands knotted across the top front of the head. The strands should fall downward over the forehead, with uneven tips for a natural shaggy look.

1. Cut 42 strands of rust orange yarn, each 7 inches long.
2. Thread one strand onto a tapestry needle and fold it in half.
3. Insert the needle under one knitted stitch at the crown front, then pull the strand halfway through.
4. Tie the two ends in a secure lark’s-head style knot.
5. Repeat across 3 curved rows from one horn area to the other.
6. Trim the center strands to about 2 1/2 inches long.
7. Trim the side strands to about 2 inches long.

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Brush the strands lightly with your fingers only. Do not comb them flat. The hair should look full, soft, and slightly messy, covering part of the forehead while leaving the eyes visible.

Ears

The ears are small oval cups sewn to the sides of the head. Each ear uses golden brown yarn and has a slightly pinched base so it angles outward.

1. Make 2. With golden brown yarn and US 3 needles, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl all sts.
3. Row 2: Kfb, K6, Kfb. You now have 10 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl all sts.
5. Row 4: Kfb, K8, Kfb. You now have 12 sts.
6. Rows 5-8: Work in stockinette.
7. Row 9: P2tog, P8, P2tog. You now have 10 sts.
8. Row 10: K2tog, K6, K2tog. You now have 8 sts.
9. Row 11: P2tog, P4, P2tog. You now have 6 sts.
10. BO all sts, leaving a 12 inch tail.

Fold each ear slightly lengthwise and sew 3 stitches at the base to form a cup. Attach the ears at the sides of the head, level with the upper third of the muzzle. Angle each ear outward and slightly upward, matching the rounded cow ears shown in the image.

Curved Horns

The horns are cream with small dark brown tips. They curve upward from the top sides of the head. Each horn is worked as a narrow strip, lightly stuffed, and curved during sewing.

1. Make 2. With dark brown yarn and US 3 needles, CO 5 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: Work in stockinette, beginning with a purl row.
3. Change to cream yarn.
4. Rows 5-18: Work in stockinette.
5. Row 19: K2tog, K1, K2tog. You now have 3 sts.
6. Row 20: Purl all sts.
7. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, and pull tight.

Fold each horn lengthwise and sew the long edge closed. Add only a wisp of stuffing so the horn remains slim. Curve the tip inward by taking 3 small shaping stitches along the inside edge. Sew each horn above the ear, tilted upward with the dark brown tip pointing slightly inward.

Body

The body is a small pear shape that supports the cardigan and skirt. It is wider at the lower belly and narrower at the neck. The cardigan will cover most of the torso, but the shape still matters for the seated doll posture.

1. With golden brown yarn and US 3 needles, CO 12 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl all sts.
3. Row 2: Kfb in each st across. You now have 24 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl all sts.
5. Row 4: K3, Kfb, repeat across. You now have 30 sts.
6. Row 5: Purl all sts.
7. Row 6: K4, Kfb, repeat across. You now have 36 sts.
8. Rows 7-22: Work in stockinette.
9. Row 23: K4, K2tog, repeat across. You now have 30 sts.
10. Row 24: Purl all sts.
11. Row 25: K3, K2tog, repeat across. You now have 24 sts.
12. Row 26: Purl all sts.
13. Row 27: K2, K2tog, repeat across. You now have 18 sts.
14. Row 28: Purl all sts.
15. BO all sts, leaving a 20 inch tail.

Sew the back seam. Stuff the body firmly at the lower half and slightly less at the shoulders. Gather the bottom opening and close securely. The top edge should remain neat and slightly narrow for joining the head.

Legs

The legs are short, thick, and golden brown. They sit forward under the skirt, with visible ribbed texture and rounded feet. Make two identical legs before adding the shoes.

1. Make 2. With golden brown yarn and US 3 needles, CO 12 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl all sts.
3. Row 2: Kfb in each st across. You now have 24 sts.
4. Rows 3-8: Work in stockinette.
5. Row 9: K6, K2tog, K8, SSK, K6. You now have 22 sts.
6. Row 10: Purl all sts.
7. Row 11: K5, K2tog, K8, SSK, K5. You now have 20 sts.
8. Rows 12-24: Work in stockinette.
9. Row 25: K2, K2tog, repeat across. You now have 15 sts.
10. Row 26: Purl all sts.
11. BO all sts, leaving a long tail.

Sew each leg seam from foot to top. Stuff firmly at the foot and moderately through the leg. The lower foot should be round and slightly wider than the upper leg. Sew the upper opening closed flat.

Arms

The arms are simple tubes with golden brown hooves showing below the cardigan sleeves. They should angle downward from the shoulders and sit slightly away from the body.

1. Make 2. With golden brown yarn and US 3 needles, CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl all sts.
3. Row 2: Kfb in each st across. You now have 20 sts.
4. Rows 3-8: Work in stockinette.
5. Row 9: K3, K2tog, repeat across. You now have 16 sts.
6. Rows 10-24: Work in stockinette.
7. Row 25: K2, K2tog, repeat across. You now have 12 sts.
8. Row 26: Purl all sts.
9. BO all sts, leaving a 16 inch tail.

Sew the long seam of each arm. Stuff the hoof end firmly and the upper arm lightly. Flatten the top edge and sew it closed. The cardigan sleeve will cover the upper section, leaving only the rounded brown hoof visible.

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Tail

• Cut 8 strands of rust orange yarn, each 5 inches long.
• Cut 3 strands of golden brown yarn, each 4 inches long.
• Twist the golden brown strands into a short cord and knot both ends.
• Tie the rust orange strands to one end as a tuft.
• Trim the tuft to 1 inch long.

Sew the tail to the back of the body, centered just above the skirt line. Let the rust-orange tuft peek out from behind the skirt, matching the small visible tail detail in the finished doll.

Green Cable Knit Cardigan

The cardigan is the main clothing piece. It is sage green, slightly oversized, and textured with front cables. It has ribbed edges, short sleeves, a button band, and four small buttons down the front.

Cardigan Back

1. With sage green yarn and US 4 needles, CO 34 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: K2, P2 rib across, ending with K2.
3. Row 5: Knit all sts.
4. Row 6: Purl all sts.
5. Rows 7-24: Continue stockinette.
6. Row 25: BO 3 sts, K to end. You now have 31 sts.
7. Row 26: BO 3 sts, P to end. You now have 28 sts.
8. Rows 27-36: Work in stockinette.
9. Row 37: K8, BO 12 sts, K8.
10. Place first 8 sts on holder, work second shoulder only.
11. Rows 38-40: Work 3 rows stockinette on shoulder, then BO.
12. Return held 8 sts and work 3 rows stockinette, then BO.

Left Front

1. With sage green yarn and US 4 needles, CO 22 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: K2, P2 rib for 18 sts, K4 for front band.
3. Row 5: K4 front band, P2, K4, P2, K10.
4. Row 6: P10, K2, P4, K2, K4 front band.
5. Row 7: K4 front band, P2, C4F, P2, K10.
6. Row 8: P10, K2, P4, K2, K4 front band.
7. Rows 9-24: Repeat Rows 5-8 four times.
8. Row 25: BO 3 sts at armhole edge, work pattern to end. You now have 19 sts.
9. Rows 26-32: Continue cable pattern, keeping 4 front band sts in garter stitch.
10. Row 33: At neck edge, BO 5 sts, work to end. You now have 14 sts.
11. Row 35: BO 3 sts at neck edge. You now have 11 sts.
12. Row 37: BO 3 sts at neck edge. You now have 8 sts.
13. Rows 38-40: Work even, then BO shoulder sts.

Right Front

1. With sage green yarn and US 4 needles, CO 22 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: K4 front band, then K2, P2 rib across remaining sts.
3. Row 5: K10, P2, K4, P2, K4 front band.
4. Row 6: K4 front band, K2, P4, K2, P10.
5. Row 7: K10, P2, C4B, P2, K4 front band.
6. Row 8: K4 front band, K2, P4, K2, P10.
7. Rows 9-24: Repeat Rows 5-8 four times.
8. Row 25: Work pattern across, then BO 3 sts at armhole edge. You now have 19 sts.
9. Rows 26-32: Continue cable pattern, keeping 4 front band sts in garter stitch.
10. Row 33: At neck edge, BO 5 sts, work to end. You now have 14 sts.
11. Row 35: BO 3 sts at neck edge. You now have 11 sts.
12. Row 37: BO 3 sts at neck edge. You now have 8 sts.
13. Rows 38-40: Work even, then BO shoulder sts.

Cardigan Sleeves

1. Make 2. With sage green yarn and US 4 needles, CO 20 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: K2, P2 rib across.
3. Row 5: Knit all sts.
4. Row 6: Purl all sts.
5. Row 7: K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. You now have 22 sts.
6. Rows 8-10: Work in stockinette.
7. Row 11: K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. You now have 24 sts.
8. Rows 12-18: Work in stockinette.
9. Row 19: BO 3 sts, K to end. You now have 21 sts.
10. Row 20: BO 3 sts, P to end. You now have 18 sts.
11. Rows 21-24: Work in stockinette.
12. BO all sts.

Cardigan Assembly

1. Sew shoulder seams of cardigan back to front pieces.
2. Sew sleeves into armholes with the sleeve center aligned to the shoulder seam.
3. Sew sleeve and side seams in one continuous seam on each side.
4. Place cardigan on the body before attaching arms permanently.
5. Sew four buttons down the left front band, spaced 4 rows apart.
6. Use yarn loops on the opposite band as button loops, or sew the cardigan partly closed.

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The cardigan should look cozy and slightly loose. The hem sits just above the skirt. Let the sleeves cover the upper arms and stop before the brown hooves, just like the soft green sleeves in the image.

Brown Tweed Skirt

The skirt is short, warm brown, and slightly flared. Use tweed yarn or hold one strand of brown with tiny cream scrap strands carried loosely for a speckled look.

1. With tweed brown yarn and US 4 needles, CO 48 sts.
2. Rows 1-3: Knit all sts for a garter hem.
3. Row 4: Purl all sts.
4. Row 5: K6, M1, repeat across. You now have 56 sts.
5. Rows 6-16: Work in stockinette.
6. Row 17: K5, K2tog, repeat across. You now have 48 sts.
7. Row 18: Purl all sts.
8. Row 19: K4, K2tog, repeat across. You now have 40 sts.
9. Rows 20-22: K2, P2 rib across for waistband.
10. BO all sts, leaving a long sewing tail.

Sew the back seam of the skirt. Slide it onto the body so it sits below the cardigan. Sew the waistband to the body using small hidden stitches. The skirt should flare softly over the top of the legs and stop above the shoes.

Boots and Shoe Straps

The doll has rounded golden-brown shoes with dark brown soles and straps. Small green leaves and rust flowers decorate the outer side of each shoe.

Dark Brown Soles

1. Make 2. With dark brown yarn and US 3 needles, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl all sts.
3. Row 2: Kfb, K6, Kfb. You now have 10 sts.
4. Rows 3-8: Work in stockinette.
5. Row 9: P2tog, P6, P2tog. You now have 8 sts.
6. BO all sts.

Sew one sole to the bottom front of each leg foot. The dark brown edge should show as a rounded shoe outline when the doll sits upright.

Shoe Straps

1. Make 2. With dark brown yarn and US 3 needles, CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1-3: Knit all sts.
3. BO all sts.

Wrap one strap over the top of each foot from outer side to inner side. Sew both ends securely. Keep the strap slightly curved so it follows the rounded shoe.

Shoe Flowers and Leaves

• For each green leaf, CO 5 sts, knit 1 row, then BO. Make 4 leaves.
• For each rust flower, wrap yarn 5 times around the needle, slide off, tie at center, and fluff. Make 2 flowers.
• Sew one leaf and one flower to the outside of each shoe.

Crossbody Fox Bag

The small bag rests on the cow’s right hip and hangs from a diagonal strap. It has a tan body, green flap, and a fox face on the front. This accessory gives the doll the exact woodland character seen in the image.

Bag Body

1. With tweed brown yarn and US 3 needles, CO 16 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: Knit all sts.
3. Rows 5-18: Work in stockinette.
4. Rows 19-22: Knit all sts.
5. BO all sts, leaving a 14 inch tail.

Fold the rectangle upward so the lower 10 rows form a pocket. Sew the side seams. The top 8 rows remain as the front panel where the fox face will be embroidered.

Green Flap

1. With sage green yarn and US 3 needles, CO 16 sts.
2. Rows 1-2: Knit all sts.
3. Rows 3-8: Work in stockinette.
4. Row 9: K2tog, K12, SSK. You now have 14 sts.
5. Row 10: Purl all sts.
6. Row 11: K2tog, K10, SSK. You now have 12 sts.
7. BO all sts.

Sew the flap to the back top edge of the bag. Fold it forward. Add one tiny brown stitch or 6 mm button at the lower center to suggest a closure.

Fox Face Embroidery

• With rust orange yarn, embroider a fox head triangle on the front of the bag.
• Make the top of the triangle 10 stitches wide and the point 6 rows lower.
• With white yarn, fill two cheek triangles on the lower left and right sides.
• With black yarn, add two tiny eyes and one small nose.
• Add two short rust stitches at the top for pointed ears.

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Bag Strap

1. With tweed brown yarn and US 3 needles, CO 65 sts.
2. Row 1: Knit all sts.
3. BO all sts loosely.

Sew one end of the strap to each side of the bag. Place the strap from the cow’s left shoulder across the cardigan to the right hip. Tack the strap lightly to the cardigan at the shoulder and under the arm so it stays in position.

Green Cable Hat with Pom-Pom

The matching hat is placed beside the doll in the image. It has a folded ribbed brim, cable texture, and a fluffy pom-pom on top. Knit it as a removable accessory.

1. With sage green yarn and US 4 needles, CO 44 sts.
2. Rows 1-10: K2, P2 rib across.
3. Row 11: K4, P2, K4, P2, repeat across to final sts.
4. Row 12: P4, K2, P4, K2, repeat across.
5. Row 13: C4F, P2, C4B, P2, repeat across.
6. Row 14: P4, K2, P4, K2, repeat across.
7. Rows 15-22: Repeat Rows 11-14 twice.
8. Row 23: K2, K2tog, P2, K2, K2tog, P2, repeat across. You now have about 36 sts.
9. Row 24: Work sts as they appear.
10. Row 25: K2tog across where possible. You now have about 18 sts.
11. Row 26: Purl across.
12. Row 27: K2tog across. You now have about 9 sts.
13. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight, and seam the back of the hat.

Fold the ribbed brim upward about 3/4 inch. Make a pom-pom from sage green yarn by wrapping yarn around three fingers 55 times, tying the center tightly, cutting the loops, and trimming to a 1 1/4 inch ball. Sew the pom-pom to the crown.

Hat Flower Accent

• Make one cream flower by wrapping cream yarn around the needle 6 times and tying at center.
• Make one rust flower the same way.
• Make one dark brown center with 4 small French knots.
• Sew flowers to the right side of the hat brim.

Tiny Mushroom

The red and cream mushroom sits beside the doll. It is a small knitted accessory with a rounded red cap, white spots, and a cream stem.

Mushroom Stem

1. With cream yarn and US 3 needles, CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1-10: Work in stockinette.
3. Row 11: K2tog across. You now have 5 sts.
4. Cut yarn and pull through remaining sts.

Sew the side seam and stuff lightly. Gather the bottom edge flat so the mushroom can sit upright.

Mushroom Cap

1. With red yarn and US 3 needles, CO 12 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl all sts.
3. Row 2: Kfb in each st across. You now have 24 sts.
4. Rows 3-8: Work in stockinette.
5. Row 9: K2, K2tog, repeat across. You now have 18 sts.
6. Row 10: Purl all sts.
7. Row 11: K1, K2tog, repeat across. You now have 12 sts.
8. Cut yarn, pull through remaining sts, and seam the cap.

Stuff the cap lightly and sew it to the stem. With white yarn, embroider 7 small spots across the red cap using duplicate stitch or French knots.

Mini Yarn Basket

The small basket beside the cow holds tiny yarn balls in green, rust, and brown. The basket is shallow, round-looking, and has a crossing handle detail.

Basket Base

1. With tweed brown yarn and US 3 needles, CO 24 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: Knit all sts.
3. Rows 5-12: Work in seed stitch.
4. Rows 13-16: Knit all sts.
5. BO all sts.

Fold the rectangle into a shallow oval bowl. Sew the short ends together. Gather the lower edge lightly and flatten it into an oval base. Do not overstuff; the basket should look soft and flexible.

Basket Handles

1. Make 2. With tweed brown yarn and US 3 needles, CO 30 sts.
2. Row 1: Knit all sts.
3. BO all sts.

Sew one handle from side to side over the basket opening. Sew the second handle diagonally across the first, forming the crisscross look visible in the image.

Small Yarn Balls

• For each yarn ball, wrap yarn around two fingers 18 times.
• Slide the wrap off carefully and wind the tail around it in different directions.
• Secure with one stitch through the center.
• Make one sage green ball, one rust orange ball, and one brown ball.
• Sew or place the balls inside the basket.

Joining the Doll

Before sewing, arrange all body parts on a flat surface. The head should look large and expressive, the cardigan should sit centered, the skirt should peek from below the sweater, and the legs should point forward with shoes visible.

1. Sew the head to the body using golden brown yarn. Work around the neck twice for strength.
2. Attach the legs to the lower front body, about 6 stitches apart. Angle the feet outward slightly.
3. Place the cardigan on the body and close the front with buttons or hidden stitches.
4. Insert the arms into the cardigan sleeves and sew the arm tops to the shoulder area under the sleeve caps.
5. Tack the sleeve cuffs to the arms with two hidden stitches so the sleeves stay in place.
6. Sew the skirt waistband to the body under the cardigan hem.
7. Add the crossbody bag strap from left shoulder to right hip.
8. Check the doll can sit securely before final tightening.

Detailed Cardigan Cable Placement

The image shows clear vertical cable texture on the cardigan front. To make the texture visible, keep the cable columns close to the button bands. The center of each front panel should have one cable column framed by purl stitches.

• Left front cable column begins after the 4 garter-stitch button band sts.
• Right front cable column ends before the 4 garter-stitch button band sts.
• Work C4F on the left front and C4B on the right front for mirrored texture.
• Keep purl stitches on each side of the cable so the cable stands raised.
• Block the cardigan lightly with steam from a distance, but do not press it flat.

Button Placement

The cardigan has four small buttons down the front. They should sit in a straight vertical line and look slightly oversized for a handmade toy scale.

1. Place the first button 3 rows below the neckline.
2. Place the second button 4 rows below the first.
3. Place the third button 4 rows below the second.
4. Place the fourth button 4 rows below the third, just above the ribbed hem.
5. Sew each button with matching thread or tan yarn.

Optional Knitted Button Loops

For a realistic cardigan closure, make small yarn loops instead of buttonholes. This is easier on a tiny toy sweater and keeps the front edge neat.

• Insert needle into the opposite front band at the same height as a button.
• Make a loop large enough to pass around the button.
• Wrap the loop with 6 blanket stitches to strengthen it.
• Repeat for all four button positions.

Finishing the Highland Cow Shape

The Highland cow’s charm comes from soft rounded shaping. After all pieces are attached, squeeze and roll the stuffed parts gently between your palms. Shape the head into a round oval, the body into a pear shape, and the feet into rounded boot-like forms.

Use a long strand of golden brown yarn to add subtle shaping at the face if needed. Insert the needle under the head, come out beside one eye, go back beside the same eye, and pull gently. Repeat on the other eye. This makes the eyes sit slightly deeper under the shaggy fringe.

Making the Doll Match the Image More Closely

• Keep the hair long enough to cover the top of the face, but trim it so both eyes show.
• Angle the horns upward and slightly inward.
• Set the ears wider than the horns so the head looks broad.
• Use sage green rather than bright green for a soft woodland cardigan.
• Choose brown tweed yarn for the skirt to create the speckled wool texture.
• Make the bag small and place it at the hip, not centered on the belly.
• Keep the hat separate and place it beside the doll for display.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check every seam before weaving in the final ends. The head, arms, and legs should be securely attached because amigurumi pieces are handled often. Add extra stitches at stress points, especially where the arms meet the shoulders and where the head meets the body.

• Trim the orange forelock last, after the horns and ears are attached.
• Add two tiny dark brown nostrils to the pink muzzle.
• Add a tiny black mouth under the nostrils.
• Sew the bag strap in place after the cardigan is buttoned.
• Steam the skirt very lightly if the hem curls upward.

Care Notes

Spot clean the doll with cool water and mild soap. Avoid soaking the entire amigurumi because the stuffing can take a long time to dry. If the doll becomes flattened, reshape it gently with your hands and let it air dry on a towel.

• Do not machine wash if using safety eyes, buttons, or glued details.
• Do not tumble dry.
• Keep away from pets who may chew buttons or small accessories.
• For a child-safe version, embroider the eyes and replace buttons with stitched circles.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head: round, firmly stuffed, with pink oval muzzle centered low.
• Hair: rust orange, shaggy, falling forward over forehead.
• Horns: cream with dark tips, curved upward.
• Cardigan: sage green, ribbed hem, visible cables, four buttons.
• Skirt: brown tweed, short, slightly flared.
• Legs and shoes: golden brown with dark straps and tiny flowers.
• Bag: crossbody strap with fox face at right hip.
• Accessories: green pom-pom hat, mushroom, and yarn basket complete.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the Highland cow in a dry place away from direct sunlight. Sunlight can fade the sage cardigan and rust-orange hair over time. For display, place the doll sitting upright with the hat, mushroom, and basket nearby so the small accessories do not get lost.

• Use a lint roller gently on the cardigan and skirt if dust gathers.
• Use a soft toothbrush to fluff the forelock, but brush only in short strokes.
• Keep the doll in a breathable cotton bag for long-term storage.
• Add tissue around the horns and ears so they do not bend while stored.
• Check buttons and strap stitches occasionally and reinforce them if loose.

Your Highland Cow Amigurumi in Green Cable Knit Cardigan is now complete, with its cozy sweater, warm skirt, tiny shoes, fox bag, matching hat, mushroom, and yarn basket ready for woodland-style display.