This Autumn Acorn Sloth is a soft, detailed knitted character with a long cream sloth face, round side eyes, a purple oval nose, a stitched smile, and two front teeth. The body wears striped green-blue autumn overalls, wide sleeves, small wooden-style buttons, a crossbody bag, open sandals, an acorn-and-leaf head decoration, plus matching accessories: a leaf hat and a tiny watering can.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Pattern Overview
This pattern is written in US English knitting terms. The sloth is knitted as a stuffed soft toy with shaped pieces, sewn seams, duplicate stitch details, embroidered features, and small knitted accessories. The finished doll is designed to look like the image: a smiling autumn garden sloth wearing striped overalls with leaf details and rustic accessories.
The main doll is worked with firm fabric so the stuffing does not show. Most pieces are knitted flat and seamed, which makes the pattern easier for beginners who are comfortable with increases, decreases, mattress stitch, and simple color changes. Small pieces such as the acorn, leaves, teeth, bag, sandals, and watering can are worked separately and sewn on at the end.
Finished Size
- Finished height: about 13.5 inches / 34 cm from sandal sole to top of head decoration.
- Body width: about 5.25 inches / 13.5 cm across the overalls.
- Head width: about 4.5 inches / 11.5 cm across the eye area.
- Arm length: about 4 inches / 10 cm from shoulder to claw tips.
- Foot length: about 2.5 inches / 6.5 cm including sandal.
- Hat width: about 4.75 inches / 12 cm when laid flat.
- Watering can length: about 3 inches / 7.5 cm including spout and handle.
Skill Level
Confident beginner to intermediate. The knitting itself uses basic stitches, but the finished look depends on careful shaping, neat seaming, and accurate placement of the autumn details. Read through the full pattern before starting so you can plan the color changes and embroidery.
Materials
- DK weight yarn in cream for head, neck, muzzle, and visible sloth body.
- DK weight yarn in variegated green, moss, teal, tan, and muted blue for overalls, sleeves, legs, bag, and hat.
- DK weight yarn in purple for the nose.
- DK weight yarn in white for eyes and teeth.
- Small amounts of black and light blue yarn for eye embroidery.
- Small amounts of brown, tan, rust, and olive yarn for sandals, acorn, leaves, bag strap, and embroidery.
- 3 mm knitting needles for the main fabric.
- 2.75 mm knitting needles for small firm details.
- Polyester fiberfill for stuffing.
- Tapestry needle for seaming and embroidery.
- Stitch markers or scrap yarn for marking placement.
- Four small tan buttons about 10 mm wide for overalls and bag.
- Two tiny cream or yellow buttons about 6 mm wide for sandal flowers.
- Black embroidery thread for eyelashes and small facial lines.
- Optional: pipe cleaner for the watering can spout if you want it slightly poseable.
Gauge
- Main gauge: 24 stitches and 34 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in stockinette stitch using 3 mm needles.
- Small detail gauge: 26 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm using 2.75 mm needles.
- Important: Gauge should be tight enough that stuffing does not show through the knitted fabric.
If your stitches are loose, use a smaller needle. If your finished pieces are too stiff to shape, use a slightly larger needle. The toy in the image has a dense but soft fabric, with visible knitted texture and rounded stuffing.
Abbreviations
- CO: cast on
- BO: bind off
- K: knit
- P: purl
- St / sts: stitch / stitches
- RS: right side
- WS: wrong side
- Kfb: knit into the front and back of the same stitch, increasing 1 stitch
- K2tog: knit 2 stitches together, decreasing 1 stitch
- P2tog: purl 2 stitches together, decreasing 1 stitch
- SSK: slip, slip, knit slipped stitches together, decreasing 1 stitch
- St st: stockinette stitch, knit RS rows and purl WS rows
- G st: garter stitch, knit every row
- Sl1: slip 1 stitch purlwise
- Rep: repeat
- Inc: increase
- Dec: decrease
Color Notes
The doll in the image has a rustic autumn palette. The overalls and hat are not one flat color. They use narrow stripes of moss green, faded teal, dusty blue, tan, and olive. You may use a variegated yarn, or change colors manually every few rows for more control.
- Cream: head, neck, lower hands, toes, and base sloth body.
- Muted green mix: overalls, sleeves, pant legs, bag, and hat.
- Olive: cuffs, leaves, small trim, and embroidery.
- Rust brown: sandals, acorn cap, leaf veins, and warm stripe accents.
- Purple: large oval nose.
- White: round eyes and front teeth.
- Black: pupils, eyelashes, mouth outline, and tiny detailing.
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Main Head and Long Neck
The head and neck are knitted as one cream piece. The shape should be long and narrow at the neck, widening into a rounded face at the top. The face has a soft sloth expression, so avoid overstuffing the upper head too tightly.
Head and Neck Piece
- Using cream yarn and 3 mm needles, CO 18 sts.
- Row 1: K all sts.
- Row 2: P all sts.
- Row 3: K1, kfb, K14, kfb, K1. 20 sts.
- Row 4: P all sts.
- Row 5: K1, kfb, K16, kfb, K1. 22 sts.
- Rows 6-12: Work in St st, beginning with a purl row.
- Row 13: K2, kfb, K16, kfb, K2. 24 sts.
- Row 14: P all sts.
- Row 15: K3, kfb, K16, kfb, K3. 26 sts.
- Row 16: P all sts.
- Row 17: K4, kfb, K16, kfb, K4. 28 sts.
- Rows 18-26: Work in St st.
- Row 27: K5, kfb, K16, kfb, K5. 30 sts.
- Row 28: P all sts.
- Row 29: K6, kfb, K16, kfb, K6. 32 sts.
- Row 30: P all sts.
- Row 31: K7, kfb, K16, kfb, K7. 34 sts.
- Rows 32-42: Work in St st.
- Row 43: K7, k2tog, K16, ssk, K7. 32 sts.
- Row 44: P all sts.
- Row 45: K6, k2tog, K16, ssk, K6. 30 sts.
- Row 46: P all sts.
- Row 47: K5, k2tog, K16, ssk, K5. 28 sts.
- Row 48: P all sts.
- Row 49: K4, k2tog, K16, ssk, K4. 26 sts.
- Row 50: P all sts.
- Row 51: K3, k2tog, K16, ssk, K3. 24 sts.
- Row 52: P all sts.
- Row 53: K2, k2tog, K16, ssk, K2. 22 sts.
- Row 54: P all sts.
- Row 55: K1, k2tog, K16, ssk, K1. 20 sts.
- Row 56: P all sts.
- Row 57: K2tog across. 10 sts.
- Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread through remaining sts and pull tight.
Seaming and Stuffing the Head
- Fold the piece with RS facing out and the seam running down the center back.
- Use mattress stitch to close from the top down to the lower neck edge.
- Stuff the face round but keep the lower neck slightly firm and narrow.
- Shape the top face by massaging the stuffing toward the cheeks.
- Close the lower neck opening only after the body is ready to attach.
Body Under the Overalls
The body is mostly hidden beneath the knitted overalls, but it gives the sloth its rounded torso. Knit this section in cream. It should be slightly pear-shaped, wider through the hips and narrower at the shoulders.
Body Piece
- Using cream yarn and 3 mm needles, CO 22 sts.
- Rows 1-2: Work in St st.
- Row 3: K2, kfb, K16, kfb, K2. 24 sts.
- Row 4: P all sts.
- Row 5: K3, kfb, K16, kfb, K3. 26 sts.
- Row 6: P all sts.
- Row 7: K4, kfb, K16, kfb, K4. 28 sts.
- Row 8: P all sts.
- Row 9: K5, kfb, K16, kfb, K5. 30 sts.
- Rows 10-22: Work in St st.
- Row 23: K6, kfb, K16, kfb, K6. 32 sts.
- Rows 24-34: Work in St st.
- Row 35: K6, k2tog, K16, ssk, K6. 30 sts.
- Row 36: P all sts.
- Row 37: K5, k2tog, K16, ssk, K5. 28 sts.
- Row 38: P all sts.
- Row 39: K4, k2tog, K16, ssk, K4. 26 sts.
- Row 40: P all sts.
- Row 41: K3, k2tog, K16, ssk, K3. 24 sts.
- Row 42: P all sts.
- Row 43: K2, k2tog, K16, ssk, K2. 22 sts.
- Rows 44-48: Work in St st.
- BO all sts, leaving a long seam tail.
Body Finishing
- Sew the back seam from bottom to top using mattress stitch.
- Stuff the body firmly at the bottom and medium-firm near the shoulders.
- Place the long neck into the top body opening by about 0.75 inch / 2 cm.
- Sew the neck to the body with cream yarn using small ladder stitches.
- Check that the face leans slightly forward, matching the friendly posture in the image.
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Striped Overall Torso
The overalls are knitted as a separate garment around the body. Use soft narrow stripes to imitate the earthy, garden-style texture. Change colors every 2 to 4 rows, or use variegated yarn and add duplicate stitch details later.
Overall Torso Front
- Using muted green mix yarn and 3 mm needles, CO 30 sts.
- Rows 1-4: K all sts for a garter hem.
- Rows 5-8: Work St st in moss green.
- Rows 9-10: Work St st in teal.
- Rows 11-12: Work St st in tan.
- Rows 13-16: Work St st in olive.
- Rows 17-18: Work St st in dusty blue.
- Rows 19-22: Work St st in moss green.
- Row 23: K4, k2tog, K18, ssk, K4. 28 sts.
- Row 24: P all sts.
- Rows 25-30: Continue stripe sequence in St st.
- Row 31: K3, k2tog, K18, ssk, K3. 26 sts.
- Row 32: P all sts.
- Rows 33-38: Work St st.
- Row 39: K2, k2tog, K18, ssk, K2. 24 sts.
- Rows 40-44: Work St st.
- Rows 45-48: K all sts for a garter top edge.
- BO all sts.
Overall Torso Back
- Work the back exactly as the front, but make it 4 rows taller before the top garter edge.
- Follow Rows 1-44 as written for the front.
- Rows 45-48: Continue in St st.
- Rows 49-52: K all sts for garter top edge.
- BO all sts.
Overall Side Seams
- Place the front and back over the stuffed body.
- Sew side seams from lower edge to underarm, leaving arm openings about 1.25 inches / 3 cm high.
- Do not sew the top front flat to the neck yet. It should sit like bib overalls.
- Adjust the garment so the stripe bands sit horizontally across the belly.
Overall Legs
The legs are short, wide, and rounded. They should look like knitted pant legs continuing from the overalls. Each leg is made as a tube-like piece and sewn to the lower body.
Left Overall Leg
- Using muted green mix yarn and 3 mm needles, CO 26 sts.
- Rows 1-4: K all sts for a garter cuff.
- Rows 5-8: Work St st in teal.
- Rows 9-10: Work St st in tan.
- Rows 11-14: Work St st in moss green.
- Rows 15-16: Work St st in dusty blue.
- Rows 17-22: Work St st in olive and green mix.
- Row 23: K2, k2tog, K18, ssk, K2. 24 sts.
- Row 24: P all sts.
- Rows 25-30: Work St st.
- Row 31: K2tog across. 12 sts.
- Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight, and seam the back of the leg.
Right Overall Leg
- Repeat the left leg instructions.
- When seaming, place the seam toward the inside of the leg.
- Stuff lightly so the legs remain soft and squat.
- Sew each leg to the lower body with the feet angled slightly outward.
Autumn Colorwork on Overalls
The overalls in the image include small leafy motifs and textured bands. These are easiest to add after knitting using duplicate stitch and embroidery. Keep the motifs small so the outfit does not become crowded.
Front Leaf Motifs
- Left bib leaf: Use olive yarn. Make one leaf 7 sts wide and 9 rows tall using duplicate stitch.
- Center rust leaf: Use rust brown yarn. Make one narrow leaf 5 sts wide and 8 rows tall.
- Lower triangle band: Use teal yarn to make small V shapes across the lower body, each V 3 sts wide and 3 rows tall.
- Tan dotted band: Work tiny straight stitches across one stripe, spaced every 3 sts.
Duplicate Stitch Leaf Chart in Words
- Row 1: Place 1 duplicate stitch in the center.
- Row 2: Place 3 duplicate stitches centered above Row 1.
- Row 3: Place 5 duplicate stitches centered above Row 2.
- Row 4: Place 7 duplicate stitches for the widest part of the leaf.
- Row 5: Place 5 duplicate stitches.
- Row 6: Place 3 duplicate stitches.
- Row 7: Place 1 duplicate stitch.
- Embroider a center vein from top to bottom using backstitch.
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Overall Straps and Buttons
The image shows two straps over the shoulders with small tan buttons on the front bib. These straps add character and help the overalls look layered over the body.
Shoulder Straps
- Using muted green yarn and 2.75 mm needles, CO 5 sts.
- Work 38 rows in garter stitch.
- BO all sts.
- Make a second strap the same way.
- Sew the back end of each strap to the top back of the overalls.
- Bring each strap over the shoulder and sew to the front bib.
- Sew one tan 10 mm button at the bottom of each front strap.
Arms and Sleeves
The arms are short and relaxed, with wide striped sleeves and cream sloth claws extending below the cuffs. Each arm is made from a sleeve section and a separate hand with three long rounded fingers.
Striped Sleeve
- Using muted green mix yarn and 3 mm needles, CO 22 sts.
- Rows 1-4: K all sts for cuff edge.
- Rows 5-8: Work St st in teal.
- Rows 9-12: Work St st in moss green.
- Rows 13-14: Work St st in tan.
- Rows 15-18: Work St st in olive.
- Rows 19-22: Work St st in dusty blue.
- Row 23: K2, k2tog, K14, ssk, K2. 20 sts.
- Row 24: P all sts.
- Rows 25-28: Work St st.
- BO all sts, leaving a long tail.
- Make a second sleeve.
Cream Hand Base
- Using cream yarn and 2.75 mm needles, CO 12 sts.
- Rows 1-6: Work St st.
- Row 7: K2, kfb, K6, kfb, K2. 14 sts.
- Rows 8-10: Work St st.
- Row 11: K2tog across. 7 sts.
- Cut yarn, thread through sts, and pull tight.
- Seam the side and stuff very lightly.
- Make a second hand base.
Three Sloth Claws for Each Hand
- Using cream yarn and 2.75 mm needles, CO 5 sts.
- Rows 1-8: Work St st.
- Row 9: K1, k2tog, k2tog. 3 sts.
- Row 10: P all sts.
- Cut yarn and thread through remaining sts.
- Seam into a narrow rounded claw.
- Make 6 claws total.
- Sew 3 claws to the end of each hand, spacing them evenly.
Arm Assembly
- Seam each sleeve into a tube.
- Insert the top of each cream hand into the sleeve cuff by about 0.25 inch / 6 mm.
- Sew around the cuff using matching green yarn.
- Stuff the sleeve lightly.
- Sew arms to the sides of the body at a downward angle.
- Place the arms so the hands hang beside the overalls like the image.
Feet and Toes
The feet are hidden partly by open sandals. Each foot has three pale rounded toes visible at the front. The toes should look soft and oval, not sharp.
Foot Base
- Using cream yarn and 3 mm needles, CO 14 sts.
- Rows 1-4: Work St st.
- Row 5: K1, kfb, K10, kfb, K1. 16 sts.
- Row 6: P all sts.
- Rows 7-14: Work St st.
- Row 15: K2, k2tog, K8, ssk, K2. 14 sts.
- Row 16: P all sts.
- Row 17: K2tog across. 7 sts.
- Cut yarn, thread through sts, and pull tight.
- Seam and stuff firmly enough to hold shape.
- Make a second foot.
Toe Ovals
- Using cream yarn and 2.75 mm needles, CO 6 sts.
- Rows 1-3: Work St st.
- Row 4: K2tog, K2, ssk. 4 sts.
- Row 5: P all sts.
- Cut yarn, thread through sts, and gather.
- Seam into a tiny oval toe.
- Make 6 toes total.
- Sew 3 toes across the front of each foot.
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Open Sandals
The sandals are rust brown with darker soles and a strap across the toes. Each sandal has a tiny flower detail on the outer side. The feet should remain visible through the sandal opening.
Sandal Sole
- Using dark brown yarn and 2.75 mm needles, CO 18 sts.
- Rows 1-3: K all sts.
- Row 4: K1, kfb, K14, kfb, K1. 20 sts.
- Rows 5-7: K all sts.
- Row 8: K2, k2tog, K12, ssk, K2. 18 sts.
- Rows 9-10: K all sts.
- BO all sts.
- Make a second sole.
Sandal Upper Strap
- Using rust brown yarn and 2.75 mm needles, CO 7 sts.
- Work 18 rows in rib: K1, P1 across, ending K1.
- BO all sts.
- Make a second strap.
- Wrap each strap over the front toes and sew to the side edges of the sole.
Sandal Back Edge
- Using rust brown yarn, CO 5 sts.
- Work 24 rows in garter stitch.
- BO all sts.
- Sew around the back of the foot above the sole.
- Repeat for the second sandal.
Tiny Sandal Flowers
- Using yellow or cream yarn, make 5 small straight stitches in a circle on the outer side of each sandal.
- Sew one tiny button or French knot in the center.
- Add one small green stitch beside each flower as a leaf.
Large Round Eyes
The sloth has playful round white eyes placed high on both sides of the head. Each eye is a raised knitted circle with a blue iris, black pupil, white catchlight, and thin black eyelashes extending outward.
White Eye Circles
- Using white yarn and 2.75 mm needles, CO 8 sts.
- Row 1: K all sts.
- Row 2: P all sts.
- Row 3: Kfb in each st. 16 sts.
- Row 4: P all sts.
- Row 5: K1, kfb, rep across to end. 24 sts.
- Rows 6-8: Work St st.
- Row 9: K1, k2tog, rep across to end. 16 sts.
- Row 10: P all sts.
- Row 11: K2tog across. 8 sts.
- Cut yarn, thread through sts, pull tight, and seam into a flat padded circle.
- Make a second eye circle.
Eye Embroidery
- With light blue yarn, embroider a small oval iris on the lower inner side of each eye.
- With black yarn, embroider a round pupil inside each blue iris.
- Add one tiny white straight stitch on each pupil for the catchlight.
- Sew the eyes to the upper sides of the head, about 1.5 inches / 4 cm apart across the face.
- Use black embroidery thread to add 2 long curved eyelashes above and beside each eye.
Purple Nose
The nose is a large oval mound in deep purple, centered on the upper face. It sits between the eyes and above the red smile. Knit it firmly and stuff it lightly so it rises from the face.
Oval Nose
- Using purple yarn and 2.75 mm needles, CO 10 sts.
- Row 1: K all sts.
- Row 2: P all sts.
- Row 3: K1, kfb, K6, kfb, K1. 12 sts.
- Row 4: P all sts.
- Row 5: K1, kfb, K8, kfb, K1. 14 sts.
- Rows 6-10: Work St st.
- Row 11: K1, k2tog, K8, ssk, K1. 12 sts.
- Row 12: P all sts.
- Row 13: K1, k2tog, K6, ssk, K1. 10 sts.
- Row 14: P all sts.
- BO all sts.
- Gather the edge slightly, add a small amount of stuffing, and sew to the center of the face.
Smile and Front Teeth
The smile is wide, simple, and happy. It curves below the purple nose and holds two white front teeth at the center. Use embroidery for the smile and small knitted rectangles for the teeth.
Two Teeth
- Using white yarn and 2.75 mm needles, CO 5 sts.
- Rows 1-6: Work St st.
- BO all sts.
- Make a second tooth.
- Sew the two teeth side by side under the center of the smile.
- Outline the teeth with fine red or dark pink yarn if desired.
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Embroidered Smile
- Using red or dark pink yarn, mark a curved smile from one cheek to the other.
- Start about 0.75 inch / 2 cm left of the nose and end the same distance on the right.
- Use backstitch, keeping each stitch about 0.2 inch / 5 mm long.
- Make a short vertical red line from the center of the smile down between the teeth.
- Secure all yarn ends inside the head.
Acorn Head Decoration
The head decoration sits slightly off-center above the face. It includes a small brown acorn, a green leaf, and a narrow base strip. This gives the sloth the autumn garden look shown in the image.
Acorn Nut
- Using tan yarn and 2.75 mm needles, CO 10 sts.
- Rows 1-2: Work St st.
- Row 3: K1, kfb, K6, kfb, K1. 12 sts.
- Rows 4-8: Work St st.
- Row 9: K1, k2tog, K6, ssk, K1. 10 sts.
- Row 10: P all sts.
- Row 11: K2tog across. 5 sts.
- Cut yarn, gather, seam, and stuff lightly.
Acorn Cap
- Using brown yarn and 2.75 mm needles, CO 12 sts.
- Rows 1-4: K all sts.
- Row 5: K2tog across. 6 sts.
- Cut yarn and gather tightly.
- Sew the cap over the tan acorn top.
- For the small stem, CO 4 sts and knit 4 rows, then BO and roll into a short stem.
Head Leaf
- Using olive yarn and 2.75 mm needles, CO 3 sts.
- Row 1: K all sts.
- Row 2: K1, kfb, K1, kfb. 5 sts.
- Row 3: K all sts.
- Row 4: K1, kfb, K1, kfb, K1. 7 sts.
- Rows 5-7: K all sts.
- Row 8: K1, k2tog, K1, ssk, K1. 5 sts.
- Row 9: K all sts.
- Row 10: K1, k2tog, ssk. 3 sts.
- Row 11: Sl1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over. 1 st.
- Cut yarn and fasten off.
- Embroider a brown center vein and 3 small side veins.
Attaching Head Decoration
- Sew the leaf flat on the top front of the head, angled toward the right.
- Sew the acorn beside it, angled toward the left.
- Use invisible stitches so the decoration looks naturally nestled into the head.
Crossbody Bag
The small square bag hangs across the body from the left shoulder to the right hip. It has a textured green body, two tan buttons, a flap-like top, and a rope-style strap.
Bag Body
- Using muted green yarn and 2.75 mm needles, CO 18 sts.
- Rows 1-4: K all sts.
- Rows 5-18: Work St st, changing between green, teal, and tan every 2 rows.
- Rows 19-22: K all sts for the flap edge.
- BO all sts.
- Fold the lower half upward to make a pouch about 1.75 inches / 4.5 cm tall.
- Sew side seams with matching yarn.
- Sew two small tan buttons on the front lower right corner.
Bag Strap
- Using tan yarn and 2.75 mm needles, CO 4 sts.
- Work 72 rows in garter stitch.
- BO all sts.
- Twist the strap gently before sewing if you want a rope-like texture.
- Sew one end to the upper left back of the bag and the other end to the upper right back.
- Place strap across the doll from left shoulder to right hip.
- Tack the strap to the shoulder and side body so it stays in place.
Matching Autumn Hat
The hat in the image is shown beside the sloth. It is a striped beanie with folded brim, embroidered leaves, and a full pom-pom. It can be made as a separate accessory or sewn lightly to the head if desired.
Hat Body
- Using muted green yarn and 3 mm needles, CO 54 sts.
- Rows 1-8: Work ribbing: K2, P2 across.
- Rows 9-10: Work St st in tan.
- Rows 11-14: Work St st in teal.
- Rows 15-18: Work St st in moss green.
- Rows 19-22: Work St st in dusty blue.
- Rows 23-26: Work St st in olive.
- Row 27: K7, k2tog, rep across. 48 sts.
- Row 28: P all sts.
- Row 29: K6, k2tog, rep across. 42 sts.
- Row 30: P all sts.
- Row 31: K5, k2tog, rep across. 36 sts.
- Row 32: P all sts.
- Row 33: K4, k2tog, rep across. 30 sts.
- Row 34: P all sts.
- Row 35: K3, k2tog, rep across. 24 sts.
- Row 36: P all sts.
- Row 37: K2, k2tog, rep across. 18 sts.
- Row 38: P all sts.
- Row 39: K1, k2tog, rep across. 12 sts.
- Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight, and seam the back.
Folded Brim
- Fold the ribbed lower edge upward by about 0.75 inch / 2 cm.
- Tack it in place at the back seam and both sides.
- Use tan yarn to embroider a thin line just above the brim.
Hat Leaves
- Use duplicate stitch to make 3 leaves across the hat front.
- Make one tan leaf, one olive leaf, and one rust leaf.
- Each leaf should be about 5 sts wide and 7 rows tall.
- Embroider center veins with brown yarn.
Pom-Pom
- Wrap green, teal, tan, and olive yarn around 3 fingers about 45 times.
- Tie tightly through the center.
- Cut loops and trim into a round pom-pom about 1.5 inches / 4 cm wide.
- Sew securely to the top of the hat.
Tiny Watering Can
The watering can sits beside the sloth in the image. It is small, pale, striped, and decorated with a tiny star or flower. Knit the body firmly so it keeps its shape.
Watering Can Body
- Using cream yarn and 2.75 mm needles, CO 20 sts.
- Rows 1-4: Work St st.
- Rows 5-6: Work St st in muted teal.
- Rows 7-12: Work St st in cream.
- Rows 13-14: Work St st in muted teal.
- Rows 15-18: Work St st in cream.
- Row 19: K2tog across. 10 sts.
- Cut yarn, thread through sts, and gather.
- Seam the side and stuff lightly.
- Flatten the bottom slightly so the can rests on the table.
Watering Can Spout
- Using cream yarn, CO 6 sts.
- Rows 1-14: Work St st.
- BO all sts.
- Roll into a narrow tube and seam closed.
- Sew to one side of the can, angled upward.
- For the rose tip, CO 8 sts, knit 3 rows, BO, and gather into a small flared circle.
- Sew the rose tip to the end of the spout.
Watering Can Handle
- Using cream yarn, CO 4 sts.
- Work 28 rows in garter stitch.
- BO all sts.
- Curve into a handle and sew both ends to the opposite side of the can.
Watering Can Decoration
- Use rust yarn to embroider one small star or flower on the side.
- Add two tiny green stitches beside it as leaves.
- Secure all yarn ends inside the stuffed can.
Leaf Appliqués for Overalls and Accessories
The image has several leaf details on the chest, bag, and hat. Use the same small leaf pattern in different colors to keep the design consistent.
Small Knitted Leaf
- Using 2.75 mm needles, CO 3 sts.
- Row 1: K all sts.
- Row 2: Kfb, K1, kfb. 5 sts.
- Row 3: K all sts.
- Row 4: Kfb, K3, kfb. 7 sts.
- Rows 5-6: K all sts.
- Row 7: K1, k2tog, K1, ssk, K1. 5 sts.
- Row 8: K all sts.
- Row 9: K1, k2tog, ssk. 3 sts.
- Row 10: Sl1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over. 1 st.
- Fasten off and weave in ends.
Leaf Placement
- Sew one olive leaf on the upper left front of the overalls.
- Sew one rust leaf on the center front bib area.
- Sew one tan leaf on the crossbody bag if desired.
- Sew 3 duplicate stitch leaves on the hat front.
- Add brown embroidered veins to every leaf for a hand-finished autumn look.
Textured Bands and Rustic Stitch Details
To match the image more closely, add small decorative stitch bands to the overalls, sleeves, legs, bag, and hat. These details make the fabric look like a rich hand-knit garden outfit rather than plain stripes.
- Seed-like dots: Use tan yarn and make one small straight stitch every 3 sts across a green stripe.
- V shapes: Use dusty blue yarn and embroider tiny V marks across the lower pants.
- Brown edging: Use rust yarn to add a line of backstitch above sandal straps and bag flap.
- Leaf veins: Use brown yarn with one long center stitch and 3 angled side stitches.
- Button placement: Sew buttons flat and securely so they look decorative but do not pull the fabric.
Joining the Doll
Before final sewing, lay every piece on a flat table and compare the shape with the image. The sloth should have a tall cream head and neck, a wide rounded body, short pant legs, relaxed arms, and oversized playful eyes.
- Attach the head and neck to the body first.
- Pull the overalls onto the body and sew side seams neatly.
- Sew the pant legs to the lower body, then attach feet below the pant cuffs.
- Add sandals over the feet and make sure the toes show at the front.
- Sew sleeves and hands to the body at shoulder height.
- Add straps and buttons after the arms are attached.
- Sew the bag strap diagonally across the chest.
- Attach the bag at the right hip.
- Sew eyes, nose, teeth, and smile onto the face.
- Add the acorn and leaf decoration to the top of the head.
Facial Placement Guide
The face is the most important part of this design. The eyes must sit wide apart and slightly high. The nose should be centered and rounded. The smile should be broad but not too low, and the teeth should sit at the center below the smile.
- Eyes: Place each eye about 0.75 inch / 2 cm from the side edge of the head.
- Nose: Center the purple oval about 0.5 inch / 1.25 cm below the eye line.
- Smile: Begin at the left cheek, curve under the nose, and end at the right cheek.
- Teeth: Sew directly under the center of the smile, touching each other.
- Eyelashes: Add two fine black curved stitches above each eye.
Shaping Tips
Use your fingers to shape each stuffed piece as you sew. The neck should look long and soft, not stiff like a tube. The head should widen at the face, and the cheeks should gently curve outward under the eyes.
For a clean handmade finish, stuff in small amounts. Add fiberfill slowly and press it into the corners with the blunt end of a knitting needle. Avoid hard lumps, especially in the head, hands, toes, and watering can.
- Use firm stuffing in the body so the doll sits straight.
- Use medium stuffing in the head so the face stays soft.
- Use very light stuffing in fingers, toes, bag, and acorn.
- Keep the sleeves slightly soft so the arms hang naturally.
- Press the bottom of the feet flat before sewing on the sandals.
Optional Weighted Base
If you want the sloth to sit more securely, add a small fabric pouch of plastic pellets inside the lower body before closing. Do not pour pellets directly into the knitting. Keep the pouch fully sewn and surrounded by stuffing.
- Use only a small amount so the doll remains soft.
- Place the pouch low in the body, behind the overall legs.
- Do not add weight to the head, arms, or watering can.
Beginner-Friendly Notes
If you are new to knitted toys, focus on neat seams and even stuffing. The small details can be added slowly. You do not need to finish all embroidery in one sitting. Pin the eyes, nose, and mouth first, then check the expression before sewing permanently.
For the striped clothing, you may use self-striping yarn instead of changing colors manually. After knitting, add extra embroidery bands to make the surface look closer to the image. This method is easier and still gives a detailed autumn style.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
- Sew all body parts with firm, small stitches using matching yarn.
- Attach the eyes before embroidering the smile so you can balance the face.
- Sew the nose with a small amount of stuffing underneath for a raised oval shape.
- Add the teeth after the smile line is complete.
- Place the acorn and leaf slightly off-center on top of the head.
- Check that both arms hang evenly and both feet point slightly outward.
- Secure the bag strap across the chest with hidden stitches at the shoulder and hip.
Care Notes
- Spot clean only with cool water and mild soap.
- Do not machine wash if buttons, embroidery, or weighted filling are used.
- Let the doll air dry flat on a towel.
- Do not wring or twist the knitted fabric.
- Reshape the head, hands, and feet gently while damp.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- The head is long, cream, and softly rounded at the top.
- The purple nose is centered and raised.
- The eyes are white, round, wide-set, and embroidered with blue and black details.
- The smile is red or dark pink and curves broadly across the face.
- Two white teeth are centered below the smile.
- The overalls have green, teal, tan, olive, and blue stripes.
- The front bib has leaf details and two buttoned straps.
- The arms have striped sleeves and cream three-claw hands.
- The feet have visible toes and rust brown sandals with tiny flowers.
- The crossbody bag sits diagonally across the body.
- The acorn and leaf decoration sits on top of the head.
- The matching hat and watering can are finished as separate accessories.
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
To keep the Autumn Acorn Sloth looking neat, store it away from strong sunlight, damp rooms, and dusty shelves. If the toy is used only for display, place it in a clean fabric-lined box when not in use. Avoid plastic bags for long storage because trapped moisture can affect natural fibers.
- Dust gently with a soft, dry cloth or a clean makeup brush.
- For small stains, dab with cool water and mild soap instead of rubbing.
- Keep the hat, watering can, and bag attached loosely or stored beside the doll.
- Check buttons and embroidered details occasionally and re-secure loose threads.
- Do not iron the stuffed doll. Steam can flatten the texture and distort the stuffing.
Your Autumn Acorn Sloth is complete when the doll has a cheerful expression, a warm striped garden outfit, tiny autumn leaves, rustic sandals, a matching hat, and the small watering can accessory. The finished piece should feel playful, cozy, and full of hand-knit autumn charm.



