Camomile Honey-Milk Bunny – Knitting

If you love soft heirloom toys and sweet cottage details, this Camomile Honey-Milk Bunny is designed for you. You’ll knit a plush bunny with long floppy ears, then dress her in a sunny chamomile dress with tiny daisies, a scalloped bonnet, and little Mary Jane shoes.

To help you shop supplies, this project pairs beautifully with DK cotton blends, 3.0–3.5 mm needles, toy stuffing, safety eyes, embroidery floss, and small buttons. The set also includes a tiny companion doll plus honey-and-milk props for charming display photos.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Project Overview

You will knit a main bunny (seamed construction) with a rounded head, subtle muzzle shaping, and thick, pillow-like legs. The body is softly plump, so the dress sits like a gathered skirt. Ears are long and flat with gentle tapering, then sewn to the sides of the head for that droopy look.

Clothing is built to match the photo: a pale honey-yellow dress with puff sleeves and a floral hem border, plus a bonnet trimmed in white scallops with small daisies. The shoes are tiny yellow Mary Janes with white straps. A crossbody acorn pouch adds the final storybook touch.

Skill Level

• Confident beginner to intermediate (basic shaping, seaming, simple colorwork embroidery)
• Best for knitters comfortable with mattress stitch and picking up stitches

Finished Measurements

• Main bunny: approx. 11–12 in (28–30 cm) tall seated, depending on yarn and stuffing
• Tiny companion doll: approx. 5–6 in (13–15 cm) tall
• Mary Jane shoes (main bunny): sized to fit the feet in this pattern

Materials

• DK weight yarn (or light worsted) in:
  • Cream (main bunny)
  • Honey yellow (dress, shoes, pouch strap)
  • White (bonnet trim, daisies)
  • Soft green (leaf accents)
  • Light brown/tan (acorn cap)
  • Optional: darker brown for nose and mouth embroidery
• Needles:
  • US 2–4 (2.75–3.5 mm) straight needles for flat knitting, or size to achieve a firm fabric
  • Optional: DPNs or short circulars for small pieces (shoes, pouch)
• Notions:
  • Safety eyes 6–8 mm (or embroider eyes)
  • Fiberfill stuffing
  • Tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors
  • Thin elastic or ribbon for bonnet ties
  • 2 small sew-on snaps or tiny buttons for dress back
  • 1 tiny button (or bead) for pouch flap detail (optional)
• Embroidery:
  • Embroidery floss or very fine yarn in white, yellow, green, and brown

Yarn & Gauge

A tight gauge helps the toy hold stuffing without gaps. Aim for a dense stockinette fabric. Exact gauge is not critical, but keep it consistent across the bunny body so pieces match cleanly.

• Suggested gauge: 24–28 sts x 32–40 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in stockinette, after light steaming
• If your fabric looks holey, go down a needle size

Abbreviations

• k = knit
• p = purl
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• RS/WS = right side / wrong side
• kfb = knit front and back (increase 1)
• k2tog = knit 2 together (decrease 1)
• ssk = slip, slip, knit (decrease 1)
• BO = bind off
• CO = cast on
• rep = repeat

General Notes

• All pieces are knit flat unless stated otherwise, then seamed.
• Use mattress stitch for invisible seams on stockinette pieces.
• Stuff firmly but smoothly. Add stuffing in small pinches to avoid lumps.
• For symmetry, make both arms and both legs at the same time by tracking rows carefully.
• Embroidery daisies are added after the dress is finished, matching the placement in the photo.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Main Bunny Body

Head (Cream) – Knit Flat

The head is an oval capsule shape that becomes round when stuffed. Gentle shaping creates a subtle muzzle area without an obvious snout. Keep increases and decreases neat; the smooth face is the focal point for the finished toy.

Piece A: Head Side Panel (make 2)

1. CO 12 sts.
2. Row 1 (RS): k.
3. Row 2 (WS): p.
4. Row 3: kfb, k to last st, kfb. (14)
5. Row 4: p.
6. Row 5: kfb, k to last st, kfb. (16)
7. Row 6: p.
8. Row 7: kfb, k to last st, kfb. (18)
9. Row 8: p.
10. Rows 9–28: work stockinette (k RS, p WS).
11. Row 29: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (16)
12. Row 30: p.
13. Row 31: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (14)
14. Row 32: p.
15. Row 33: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (12)
16. Row 34: p.
17. BO knitwise.

Piece B: Head Center Gusset

This strip runs from under the chin, over the top of the head, and down the back. Its width sets the head’s roundness. Keep edges tidy for easy seaming.

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Work 46 rows in stockinette.
3. BO.

Head Assembly (before stuffing)

• With RS facing, pin one long edge of the gusset to the curved edge of one side panel, easing slightly at the corners.
• Mattress stitch along the pinned edge from chin to back.
• Attach the second side panel to the other gusset edge in the same way.
• Leave a 2–3 in opening at the back lower seam for stuffing and closing.

Facial Placement Guide

Place the eyes slightly below the midpoint of the head and spaced widely for a gentle expression. In the photo, the face is simple: small dark eyes, a tiny stitched nose, and a short “Y” mouth line.

• Safety eyes: position between rows 18–20 of the side panels, about 8–9 sts apart (adjust to your head size).
• Nose: centered 2–3 rows below eye line, embroidered in dark brown.

Stuffing the Head

Stuff firmly, shaping cheeks with your fingers so the face stays smooth. Add a little extra stuffing around the muzzle area to create a soft forward curve. Close the opening with ladder stitch, keeping the seam tight and hidden along the back-bottom of the head.

Body (Cream) – Knit Flat

The body is a rounded cylinder that narrows slightly at the neck. A stable body is important because the dress sits on top and needs a nice silhouette. Stuff the lower body a touch more firmly than the upper body.

1. CO 26 sts.
2. Rows 1–2: stockinette.
3. Row 3 (RS): kfb, k to last st, kfb. (28)
4. Row 4: p.
5. Row 5: kfb, k to last st, kfb. (30)
6. Row 6: p.
7. Row 7: kfb, k to last st, kfb. (32)
8. Row 8: p.
9. Rows 9–34: stockinette.
10. Row 35 (RS): k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (30)
11. Row 36: p.
12. Row 37: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (28)
13. Row 38: p.
14. Row 39: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (26)
15. Rows 40–46: stockinette.
16. BO.

Body Seaming

• Fold body piece lengthwise, RS out.
• Mattress stitch the long edge to form a tube, leaving the top open.
• Gather the bottom edge with a running stitch, pull tight, and secure.
• Turn so seam sits at the back. Stuff firmly and close the top with a running stitch, but do not cinch too tight yet.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Arms (Cream) – Make 2

Arms are simple tubes with a rounded paw end. The dress sleeves will cover the upper arm, so keep shaping subtle. Stuff lightly so the arms remain soft and drape naturally at the bunny’s sides.

1. CO 12 sts.
2. Rows 1–10: stockinette.
3. Row 11 (RS): k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (10)
4. Row 12: p.
5. Row 13: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (8)
6. Rows 14–18: stockinette.
7. BO.

Finish Arms

• Seam long edge into a tube.
• Gather one end for the paw, pull tight, secure, and tuck tail inside.
• Stuff lightly, leaving the top 1 in less stuffed for easier sewing to body.
• Close the top with a running stitch.

Legs (Cream) – Make 2

Legs are thicker than arms and end in a rounded foot. The feet in the photo look like soft pillows with a gentle toe curve. Stuff the foot area firmly so the shoes fit neatly and keep their shape.

1. CO 16 sts.
2. Rows 1–6: stockinette.
3. Row 7 (RS): kfb, k to last st, kfb. (18)
4. Row 8: p.
5. Rows 9–18: stockinette.
6. Row 19: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (16)
7. Rows 20–34: stockinette.
8. BO.

Finish Legs

• Seam long edge into a tube.
• Gather and close the bottom (foot end), then stuff firmly.
• Close the top with a running stitch, leaving a slight dome rather than a flat top.

Ears (Cream) – Make 2

The ears are long, flat, and softly rounded at the tips. They are attached slightly low on the head sides, so they droop like in the image. Do not overstuff; ears should remain flat and flexible.

1. CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1–6: stockinette.
3. Row 7 (RS): k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (12)
4. Rows 8–12: stockinette.
5. Row 13: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (10)
6. Rows 14–18: stockinette.
7. Row 19: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (8)
8. Rows 20–44: stockinette.
9. BO.

Ear Finish

• Fold each ear in half lengthwise with WS inside and seam only the first 2–3 in from the base, leaving the rest flat.
• This creates a slightly cupped base that sits naturally on the head.

Dress (Honey Yellow)

The dress in the photo has a fitted bodice with a square neckline, puff sleeves, and a softly gathered skirt. The hem is decorated with small chamomile flowers and green accents. Make the dress removable with a back opening and small snaps or buttons.

Bodice Front

1. CO 30 sts.
2. Rows 1–6: stockinette.
3. Row 7 (RS): k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (28)
4. Rows 8–14: stockinette.
5. Row 15 (RS): BO 4 sts, k to end. (24)
6. Row 16 (WS): p.
7. Row 17: k.
8. Row 18: p.
9. BO remaining 24 sts.

Neckline Note

The bound-off section forms the squared neckline dip. When seamed to the back, it creates a neat frame similar to the photo’s dress shape. If you want a deeper square, bind off 6 sts instead of 4.

Bodice Back (make 2 halves for opening)

1. CO 16 sts.
2. Rows 1–6: stockinette.
3. Row 7 (RS): k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (14)
4. Rows 8–18: stockinette.
5. BO.

Skirt Panel (Honey Yellow)

The skirt is a wide rectangle gathered into the bodice. The fullness creates the soft bell shape seen in the image. Add hem border embroidery after seaming for clean flower placement.

1. CO 70 sts.
2. Rows 1–4: stockinette.
3. Row 5 (RS): k all (creates a subtle purl ridge when worn).
4. Rows 6–40: stockinette.
5. Row 41 (WS): p all.
6. Rows 42–46: stockinette.
7. BO loosely.

Puff Sleeves (make 2)

The sleeves are short and rounded. They sit high on the shoulder and puff gently, with daisies embroidered on the outer sides like in the photo. Keep the sleeve cap slightly gathered when attaching.

1. CO 22 sts.
2. Rows 1–6: stockinette.
3. Row 7 (RS): k2tog across. (11)
4. Row 8: p.
5. Rows 9–14: stockinette.
6. BO.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Dress Construction

• Seam each bodice back half to the bodice front at the shoulders.
• Leave the back edges unsewn for the opening.
• Attach sleeves: gather the CO edge of each sleeve slightly, then sew into the armhole area.
• Seam side seams from sleeve edge down to bodice hem.
• Seam skirt into a tube by joining the short edges.
• Gather the top edge of the skirt evenly to match bodice lower edge.
• Sew skirt to bodice, keeping gathers smooth and consistent.
• Add snaps or tiny buttons to close the back opening.

Dress Edging (Optional but Matches Photo)

The photo shows clean edges. You can add a simple knitted facing or an applied cord. A quick option is to single-thread whipstitch a thin yarn cord along neckline and armholes for a crisp outline.

• Cut a long strand of honey yellow yarn.
• Using a tapestry needle, stitch along the neckline and armhole edges with small, even stitches.
• Keep tension gentle so the edge lays flat without puckering.

Bonnet (Honey Yellow + White Trim)

The bonnet frames the bunny’s face and sits low on the forehead. In the image, the bonnet has a white scalloped band with small daisy details. The bonnet body is honey yellow, and the trim is white with tiny yellow centers.

Bonnet Cap (Honey Yellow)

1. CO 34 sts.
2. Rows 1–10: stockinette.
3. Row 11 (RS): k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (32)
4. Rows 12–17: stockinette.
5. Row 18: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (30)
6. Rows 19–26: stockinette.
7. Row 27: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (28)
8. Rows 28–34: stockinette.
9. BO.

Bonnet Side Bands (make 2, Honey Yellow)

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Work 24 rows in stockinette.
3. BO.

Bonnet Assembly

• Center the bonnet cap on the back of the bunny’s head and check fit before seaming.
• Sew one side band along each side edge of the bonnet cap.
• Sew the back corners slightly inward to form a rounded cup.
• Add ties: attach ribbon or i-cord at the lower ends of the side bands.

White Scallop Face Band

This trim sits along the front edge of the bonnet like a decorative headband. Create scallops by sewing small white loops, or knit a narrow strip and shape it with tiny gathers. The simplest photo-matching method is a sewn-on scallop chain.

1. Thread a tapestry needle with white yarn.
2. Starting at one side of the bonnet front edge, create small looped scallops:
   • Make a 1/2 in loop, tack it down with a small stitch.
   • Repeat across the front edge, spacing loops evenly.
3. Secure ends neatly on the inside of the bonnet.

Chamomile Embroidery (Dress & Bonnet)

The daisies in the image are small and evenly spaced. Place a row of daisies around the skirt hem, plus a few on each puff sleeve. Add tiny daisies on the white bonnet band as well. Use white for petals, yellow for centers, and green for small leaves.

Daisy Motif (Embroidered)

• Petals: Using white floss, stitch 6–8 lazy-daisy loops in a circle.
• Center: Using yellow floss, add 3–5 French knots or small satin stitches.
• Leaves: Using green floss, add 1–2 small leaf stitches beside each flower.

Placement to Match the Photo

• Skirt hem: daisies in a continuous garland, close to the bottom edge.
• Sleeves: 2–3 daisies per sleeve, clustered on the outside.
• Bonnet band: small daisies spaced across the white scallops.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Mary Jane Shoes (Honey Yellow + White Straps)

The shoes are rounded with a low profile and a white strap across the top. Knit them snug so they stay on the bunny’s feet. If your bunny’s feet are larger due to stuffing, add a few extra rows before shaping the top.

Shoe Base (make 2, Honey Yellow)

1. CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1–6: stockinette.
3. Row 7 (RS): ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (16)
4. Row 8: p.
5. Row 9: ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (14)
6. Rows 10–12: stockinette.
7. Row 13 (RS): BO 4 sts, k to end. (10)
8. Row 14 (WS): BO 4 sts, p to end. (6)
9. Rows 15–18: stockinette on 6 sts (forms the top bridge).
10. BO.

Shoe Assembly

• Seam the back heel first, then shape the toe by easing the edges together.
• Try on the bunny’s foot before fully closing the toe seam, adjusting the curve.
• Weave in ends and lightly stuff the toe with a tiny pinch of fiberfill if needed.

White Strap & Tiny Flower

• Strap: using white yarn, make a narrow strip:
  • CO 4 sts, work 10–12 rows in garter stitch, BO.
• Sew strap across the shoe opening, anchoring both ends firmly.
• Add a tiny daisy on the outer side of each shoe using embroidery method above.

Acorn Crossbody Pouch (Honey Yellow + Tan Cap)

The pouch is shaped like a small acorn with a honey-yellow body and a tan cap. It hangs from a thin strap across the bunny’s chest, matching the photo. Keep the pouch small so it sits near the waistline and does not overwhelm the dress.

Pouch Body (Honey Yellow)

1. CO 20 sts.
2. Rows 1–10: stockinette.
3. Row 11 (RS): ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (18)
4. Row 12: p.
5. Row 13: ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (16)
6. Rows 14–18: stockinette.
7. BO.

Pouch Cap (Tan)

1. CO 22 sts.
2. Rows 1–6: stockinette.
3. Row 7 (RS): k2tog across. (11)
4. Row 8: p.
5. BO.

Strap (Honey Yellow)

• Make an i-cord or a simple chain cord:
  • CO 3 sts, slide to other end of needle, k3; repeat until cord is 16–18 in long, BO.

Pouch Assembly

• Seam the pouch body into a tube and gather the bottom closed.
• Lightly stuff to keep a rounded acorn shape.
• Sew the tan cap over the top edge, letting it overlap slightly like an acorn hat.
• Attach strap to both sides of the cap area so it hangs securely.

Tiny Companion Doll (Mini Bunny)

The small doll in the photo echoes the main bunny’s outfit: a pale dress with a light bonnet and a sweet face. This mini uses the same construction ideas but fewer stitches. Keep stuffing minimal so the doll stays delicate and proportionate.

Mini Head (Cream) – Simplified

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1–2: stockinette.
3. Row 3 (RS): kfb, k to last st, kfb. (12)
4. Rows 4–14: stockinette.
5. Row 15: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. (10)
6. Rows 16–18: stockinette.
7. BO.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Mini Head Finish

• Seam into a tube, gather bottom closed, stuff, then gather top closed.
• Add small embroidered eyes and a tiny nose for a soft look.

Mini Body (Cream)

1. CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1–14: stockinette.
3. BO.

• Seam into a tube, gather bottom closed, stuff lightly, and gather top closed.

Mini Arms & Legs (Cream)

• Arms (make 2): CO 6 sts, work 8 rows stockinette, BO, seam into tubes, stuff lightly.
• Legs (make 2): CO 7 sts, work 10 rows stockinette, BO, seam, stuff lightly.

Mini Ears (Cream, Optional)

The photo shows a tiny figure with a hood-like bonnet, so ears can be hidden. If you want ears, knit two tiny strips and sew them low on the head sides before the bonnet goes on.

• CO 6 sts, work 14 rows stockinette, BO, flatten and stitch base.

Mini Dress (Honey Yellow + White)

1. Bodice: CO 12 sts, work 8 rows stockinette, BO.
2. Skirt: CO 24 sts, work 12 rows stockinette, BO.

• Seam skirt into a tube, gather top, sew to bodice.
• Add a small white apron panel if desired: CO 10 sts in white, work 8 rows, BO, stitch to dress front.

Mini Bonnet (Light Yellow or White Trim)

• CO 14 sts, work 10 rows stockinette, BO.
• Gather the top edge slightly and sew to back of mini head like a hood.
• Add thin ties with embroidery floss.

Honey Jar & Milk Prop Set

The photo includes tiny props: a small honey jar/acorn-like piece and a little milk glass. These props are optional, but they complete the “honey-milk” theme and make your finished photos feel like a cozy story scene.

Mini Honey Jar (Honey Yellow + Tan Lid)

• Jar body: CO 10 sts in honey yellow, work 8 rows stockinette, BO, seam into a tube, stuff lightly, gather base and top.
• Lid: CO 10 sts in tan, work 4 rows stockinette, BO, stitch on top like a cap.

Mini Milk Glass (White)

• CO 10 sts in white, work 10 rows in stockinette, BO.
• Seam into a tube and stuff very lightly.
• Gather bottom closed; leave top slightly open-looking by not cinching fully.

Chamomile Bouquet (Optional Accent)

To mimic the small chamomile cluster, stitch a few tiny daisies on short green stems. Bundle them with a yarn tie. Keep it simple so the bouquet stays neat at small scale and doesn’t distract from the bunny’s outfit.

• Create 5–7 small daisies using embroidery loops on a small knit swatch scrap.
• Cut around each daisy, leaving a tiny margin, and tack onto green stems (embroidery floss).
• Bind stems together with a green tie.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the head to the body with strong stitching, aligning the face forward and the back seam centered. Attach legs low and wide so the bunny sits stable. Sew arms slightly forward so they rest naturally beside the dress. Add ears low on the head sides for a droopy look.

Embroider the nose as a small triangle or “V” shape, then add a short vertical line down and two tiny mouth stitches to form a gentle “Y.” Keep features minimal and centered. After dressing, place the bonnet so it frames the face evenly and tie under the chin.

Care Notes

For best results, spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap. If you must wash, use cool water and gentle handling. Avoid harsh twisting so seams and embroidery stay crisp. Let the toy air dry fully, reshaping the head, ears, and dress skirt while damp.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• All seams are tight with no stuffing showing through.
• Eyes are level and securely attached or embroidered firmly.
• Nose and mouth are centered and symmetrical.
• Dress closes neatly in back and skirt gathers are even.
• Daisy embroidery is spaced consistently on hem, sleeves, and bonnet band.
• Shoes fit snugly and straps are well secured.
• Pouch strap length sits nicely across the chest and pouch rests at hip.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the bunny away from direct sunlight to prevent fading, especially on the honey-yellow dress. If displaying long term, dust lightly with a soft brush. For storage, wrap in acid-free tissue and keep in a breathable box to protect embroidery and prevent flattening.

If the toy becomes slightly misshapen, gently steam from a distance and reshape by hand. Do not press directly with a hot iron. Keep small accessories (mini doll, props, pouch) together in a separate pouch so they don’t snag the dress embroidery or bonnet trim.