This charming knitted bunny set is designed to look like a collectible heirloom toy with a romantic countryside mood. The finished display includes a long-eared bunny in a lace bonnet, a soft pink capelet, olive bloomers, tiny shoes, a market bag, a lantern, a bouquet, a date card, and a small penguin friend. It has the look of a handmade bunny doll you might search for as a nursery keepsake, Easter gift, artisan plush, or cottage-style stuffed animal. The shapes are gentle, cozy, and polished, making the finished piece ideal for gifting, display styling, or a handmade toy collection.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Materials
- DK weight yarn in warm cream for the bunny, bonnet, bag, and ties
- DK weight yarn in dusty rose for the capelet, heart charms, bouquet flowers, and penguin cape
- DK weight yarn in muted olive for bloomers, shoes, lantern frame, and some floral stems
- DK weight yarn in medium gray for the penguin body
- Small amount of black for eyes and dark bonnet lining detail if desired
- Small amount of gold or mustard for penguin beak and feet, and lantern flame
- Small amount of white for the flower tips and penguin face panel
- 2.75 mm and 3.0 mm knitting needles or sizes needed to obtain a very firm fabric
- Set of double-pointed needles in matching sizes for small circumferences
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
- Waste yarn
- Toy stuffing
- Thin craft wire for the lantern handle only if you want extra structure
- Optional lightweight cardboard or plastic canvas for the lantern base and date card support
Gauge
Gauge is not critical in the same way as garment knitting, but a dense fabric is essential. Aim for approximately 28 to 30 stitches and 36 to 40 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch using your main yarn and chosen needle size.
If your fabric shows gaps when lightly stretched, go down a needle size. The finished pieces in the image look tightly worked, smooth, and neatly stuffed, with very little stitch spread.
Finished Size
- Main bunny: about 10 to 11 inches tall from feet to top of bonnet
- Penguin friend: about 3 inches tall
- Lantern: about 2 inches tall excluding hanging loop
- Bag: about 2 inches tall
- Bouquet: about 3 inches long
- Date card: about 1 inch square
Abbreviations
- BO = bind off
- CO = cast on
- dec = decrease
- inc = increase
- k = knit
- kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
- k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
- m1 = make 1 increase
- p = purl
- pm = place marker
- rep = repeat
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- ssk = slip, slip, knit
- st = stitch
- st st = stockinette stitch
- WS = wrong side
Design Notes
The bunny in the image has a calm, upright posture and slightly elongated proportions. The head is large but not oversized, the torso is gently cylindrical, and the legs are sturdy enough to support a standing display when firmly stuffed and balanced.
The face is minimal and sweet. The eyes are tiny dark vertical marks set wide apart. The nose and mouth are embroidered in a delicate Y-style shape, centered low on the face to emphasize the plush, rounded muzzle.
The ears are long, narrow, and softly drooping. They fall down behind the bonnet and extend to shoulder level. The bonnet frames the face closely and has a lace edging with scallops and small bobble points around the outer edge.
The dusty rose capelet is short and rounded. It ends above the waist and opens at the front. Two hanging heart ornaments are attached near the front edges. The olive lower garment looks like rounded bloomers with a gentle skirted fullness rather than straight trousers.
The floral detail across the front of the bloomers is important. It resembles a trailing bleeding heart vine with pink heart blossoms tipped in white. Keep that embroidery and applique soft and curved rather than perfectly straight.
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Main Bunny
Legs Make 2
Using olive yarn and smaller needles, CO 18 sts and join carefully for working in the round. Work 6 rnds in k1, p1 rib to create the top band of each shoe. This band should look neat and shallow.
Switch to st st and work 4 rnds even. Shape the toe by placing markers at each side of the foot. On the next rnd, work to 2 sts before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, work to 2 sts before second marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk. Work 1 rnd even.
Rep those 2 rnds once more. You should now have a softly narrowed front shape. Stuff the toe lightly so it stays rounded. Work 4 rnds even.
Change to cream yarn for the legs. Knit 18 rnds even for the ankle and lower leg. Increase 2 sts evenly across the next rnd. Work 14 more rnds even. Stuff the leg firmly from the foot upward.
On the final rnd, flatten the opening so the side markers align. Leave sts on waste yarn if joining by three-needle method, or BO loosely and sew later. Make the second leg to match.
Body
Place both legs on needles with the inner sides facing one another. Using cream yarn, join to work across one leg, CO 4 sts for the crotch bridge, work across second leg, CO 4 sts for back bridge. You now have a joined lower body.
Work 6 rnds even. On the next rnd, dec 2 sts at each bridge edge for a smoother join. Work 4 rnds even. Continue in st st for 10 more rnds, stuffing lightly as you go so the lower torso stays cylindrical and not bulky.
To shape the upper torso, work an increase rnd by adding 1 st at each side. Work 8 rnds even. Then work a decrease rnd, removing those 2 sts again. This creates the gentle full chest and slight waist visible beneath the capelet.
Work 8 rnds even. Stuff the body firmly, especially around the base, so the bunny can stand when balanced against its accessories. The image suggests a soft toy rather than a rigid doll, so avoid over-hard stuffing in the middle.
Shoulders and Neck
Divide the upper body into front and back. Work 2 short rows at the back if desired to slightly lift the shoulder line. Then decrease evenly over the next 2 rnds until the neck is narrower than the body but still substantial enough to support the head.
Work 4 rnds even for the neck in cream. Stuff very firmly. A stable neck is essential because the head is large and the bonnet adds visual volume. BO or leave live sts for grafting to the head.
Arms Make 2
Using cream yarn, CO 14 sts and join in the round. Work 18 rnds even in st st. The arms in the image are slim, simple, and softly tapered, with little visible paw shaping.
For a subtle taper, dec 1 st at each side on rnd 8 and rnd 14. Work 2 more rnds even. Stuff lightly, keeping the upper arm softer than the lower arm. Flatten the opening and BO, leaving a long tail for sewing.
When attached, the arms should angle slightly downward and forward. They sit low enough that the capelet drapes naturally over the shoulders without being pushed outward too much.
Head
Using cream yarn, CO 12 sts and divide across dpns. Join for working in the round. Increase evenly on every other rnd until you have 48 sts. Work 14 rnds even. This forms the crown and upper head.
To create the rounded muzzle, work 1 increase rnd across the front half only, adding 4 sts. Work 4 rnds even. On the next rnd, work short rows over the front center section or simply knit 2 extra partial rows across the muzzle stitches before continuing. This gives the front face a fuller projection.
Work 6 rnds even. Begin decreasing gradually at the sides and back while keeping the front smooth. Once the head is about three-quarters closed, stuff very firmly, shaping the cheeks with your fingers so the front becomes broad and plush.
Continue decreasing until a small opening remains. If you joined the head directly to the neck, pause before full closure to make sure the face points straight forward. Close the top neatly.
Muzzle Definition and Face
Thread matching cream yarn and make two soft sculpting passes from the lower center face to the eye area to suggest full cheeks. Do not pull tightly. The image shows only mild shaping, not dramatic indentations.
Embroider the eyes with tiny straight black stitches or use very small black French knots placed vertically. Set them far apart with plenty of cream space between them. They should sit slightly above the widest part of the muzzle.
Using dark brown or taupe embroidery floss, stitch a small triangular nose and a short center line descending into a split mouth. Keep the expression neutral and gentle. The mouth is petite and centered, not smiling broadly.
Ears Make 2
Using cream yarn, CO 10 sts. Work flat in st st with a slipped first stitch for a neat edge. Increase 1 st at each end on every 4th row 3 times. Work even until the ear measures about 4 inches.
Then shape the tip by decreasing 1 st at each end on every 6th row twice. Work 2 more rows. BO. Make a second ear. Lightly steam or finger-block so the ears lie flat and smooth.
Fold the cast-on edge slightly when attaching to the head to create a soft natural droop. Position them behind the bonnet line so only the long hanging portions remain visible at the sides.
Olive Bloomers
The lower garment in the image sits high on the waist and has a rounded, gently puffed silhouette. It reads as bloomers with a skirt-like fullness rather than a flat skirt. Knit this as a separate garment for a clean layered finish.
Using olive yarn, CO enough sts to fit around the widest part of the bunny’s hips snugly. For most DK toy gauges, 52 to 56 sts works well. Join in the round and work 4 rnds in k1, p1 rib for the waistband.
Increase evenly by 6 sts. Work 8 rnds even in st st. To create fullness, work an increase rnd by adding 1 st every 8 sts. Work 6 rnds even.
Divide for the legs. Place half the stitches for each leg opening and work each opening with a short ribbed band of 3 rnds in k1, p1. BO loosely. Sew the inner crotch seam neatly.
The outer shape should remain rounded and slightly roomy. Slide the garment onto the bunny and tack invisibly at the back waist if needed so it stays smooth and high, matching the image.
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Bleeding Heart Vine Applique
Using olive yarn, make a narrow I-cord about 5 inches long or crochet a very fine chain if you prefer mixed finishing methods. Sew this on the front of the bloomers in a soft downward curve from the bunny’s left side toward the right knee area.
Make 5 small pink heart flowers. For each one, CO 6 sts. Work 1 WS row purl. On the next RS row, kfb into each st. Work 1 row purl. Next row: k2tog across, leaving a small gathered shape. Sew into a folded heart with two rounded lobes.
Add a tiny white petal tip under each pink heart using 2 or 3 duplicate-stitched white loops or a separately made miniature knitted nub. Stitch the flowers along the vine, spaced evenly, with the lowest flowers hanging slightly below the vine line.
Shoes
The bunny’s shoes are soft olive Mary Jane shoes with open top shaping and a shallow strap look. Because the feet are already knitted into the legs, these are best made as decorative overlays.
Pick up stitches around the front half of each foot opening using olive yarn. Work 2 rows in garter stitch, then BO most stitches, leaving a small central section. Knit a short strap from one side and sew it to the other side. Repeat for the second shoe.
The shoes should frame the cream top of the foot and leave an oval opening, just like the image. Keep them snug and low, not bulky.
Bonnet
The bonnet is one of the defining features of this design. It has a fitted cream cap, a lace face frame with scalloped shaping, and tiny bobble points around the outer edge. It should sit close to the head and cover the crown without overwhelming the face.
Bonnet Cap
Using cream yarn, CO 14 sts and work flat in st st, increasing at each end every RS row until you have 34 sts. Work even for 18 rows. This forms the center top strip of the bonnet.
Pick up stitches evenly along both long sides of the strip. Work short rows around the back of the head to build a dome. Continue until the cap curves neatly around the top and back of the bunny’s head. BO loosely.
Sew the back seam and test fit. The bonnet should sit just above the eyes and cover the base of the ears. Tack it in place only after the lace edging is added.
Lace Face Frill
Pick up stitches all around the front face opening of the bonnet. Work 2 rows in garter stitch. Then begin the lace pattern.
Row 1: *yo, k2tog, k1, yo, ssk, k1; rep from * across.
Row 2 and all WS rows: Purl.
Row 3: *k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, ssk; rep from * across.
Rep Rows 1 to 3 three times total, or until the lace frill is deep enough to curve around the face like the image. The frill should be soft and airy, not stiff.
Scalloped Lower Edge
Work one RS row as follows: *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1; rep from *. Then work a final edge row in garter stitch while spacing 7 to 9 small bobbles evenly.
For each bobble, work into one stitch as follows: k1, p1, k1, turn, p3, turn, k3, turn, p3, turn, k3tog. Continue across. BO loosely on the next row.
Once blocked lightly, the edge will show small rounded points. Sew the lace edge so it frames the bunny’s cheeks and chin softly. Add cream ties made from I-cord or twisted cord and tie them in a bow under the chin.
Capelet
The dusty rose capelet is short, rounded, and gently flared. It opens at the front and ties at the neckline with a cream bow. Two knitted heart charms hang near the lower front corners.
Using dusty rose yarn, CO 56 sts and work flat. Begin with 4 rows of garter stitch. Then work in st st with 4 garter stitches at each edge for a tidy border.
Shape the cape by increasing 1 st inside each border every 6th row 4 times. At the same time, begin very gentle neck shaping after the first 10 rows by decreasing 1 st at each front edge every 8th row twice.
When the piece reaches shoulder-covering length, about 18 to 20 rows total after the border, work 4 rows of garter stitch and BO knitwise. The lower edge should curve softly, not flare sharply.
Pick up stitches around the neck edge with dusty rose yarn and work 3 rows in rib or garter to make a neat collar. BO. Make a cream I-cord tie and thread or sew it at the neck center.
Heart Charms Make 2
Using dusty rose yarn, CO 8 sts. Work 1 row purl. Split into two lobes by working the first 4 sts and second 4 sts separately for 2 short rows each. Rejoin and decrease gradually to a point. Make 2 hearts.
Add a tiny white accent at the bottom tip of each heart using a duplicate stitch or a miniature embroidered petal shape. Sew one heart near each front lower edge of the capelet so they hang downward like little ornaments.
Market Bag
The small cream bag hangs from the bunny’s left arm. It has an open lattice texture and a short handle. Use cream yarn and small needles.
CO 12 sts and work flat. Row 1: k. Row 2: p. Row 3: k1, yo, k2tog across to last stitch, k1. Row 4: p. Rep Rows 1 to 4 until the bag measures about 2 inches tall.
Fold in half and seam the sides. Pick up stitches around the top edge and work 2 garter rounds or rows. Create a narrow I-cord handle and attach at both upper corners. Lightly block so the mesh texture opens.
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Lantern
The lantern is olive with a cream body panel and a visible little flame. It is cylindrical with a tapered top and a hanging loop. For a crisp shape, stuff lightly and insert a small base support if you like.
Using olive yarn, CO 12 sts and join in the round. Work 3 rnds in garter stitch. Change to cream and work 8 rnds in st st for the central window. Change back to olive and decrease every other rnd to create the top taper.
Before closing, insert a tiny yellow or mustard knitted flame inside the cream section. Make the flame as a tiny stuffed teardrop or even a wrapped yarn nub. Close the lantern top neatly.
Make a narrow olive loop and sew to the top. Add vertical embroidered lines in olive over the cream section to suggest framing, but keep them soft so the lantern still looks knitted and cozy rather than rigid.
Date Card
The little date card is a tiny square cream prop placed on the table. Knit two small cream squares with 8 sts by 10 rows in garter stitch. Sew them together around a piece of thin cardboard or plastic canvas.
Embroider the words date card in dark yarn across the front and add a tiny pink heart in one top corner. Keep the lettering intentionally simple and handmade, matching the image rather than aiming for a printed look.
Bleeding Heart Bouquet
The bouquet lies at the bunny’s feet and repeats the flower theme from the bloomers. It includes several pink heart blossoms with white tips and green stems gathered in a cream tie.
Make 5 to 7 flowers. For each flower, create one tiny pink heart using the same method as the cape charms but in a smaller version. Add a white droplet-shaped tip at the lower point.
For stems, knit or make narrow cords in green, about 2 to 3 inches long. Stitch each flower to one stem. Gather all stems together and wrap with cream yarn. Leave the stem ends visible and slightly uneven for a natural bouquet effect.
Penguin Friend
The small penguin is a rounded companion with a gray body, cream face panel, dark side flippers, yellow beak and feet, plus a tiny cream bonnet and dusty rose capelet that echo the bunny’s outfit.
Penguin Body
Using gray yarn, CO 10 sts and join in the round. Increase evenly to 28 sts over the next few rnds. Work 10 rnds even. Stuff firmly.
Decrease gradually toward the top, but before closing, add an oval cream face panel on the front using duplicate stitch or a separately knitted patch. Close the top completely. The body should look egg-shaped and squat.
Flippers Make 2
Using dark yarn, CO 6 sts. Work 6 rows in st st, decreasing once at each end on the last RS row. BO. Sew to the sides so they angle slightly outward.
Beak and Feet
For the beak, use yellow or mustard yarn. Make a tiny folded triangle and sew to the center of the face. For the feet, make two very small flat ovals or embroidered pads and sew under the body so the penguin sits upright.
Penguin Bonnet and Cape
Make a miniature cream bonnet by knitting a small oval cap with a tiny face frill. Keep the scallop effect very subtle. Add a short cream tie bow under the penguin’s face.
For the cape, knit a tiny dusty rose semicircle with a neck tie. Sew or tack it so it sits around the upper body. The scale should mirror the bunny closely for a coordinated matching set.
Assembly
- Sew the head securely to the neck if not joined during knitting.
- Attach the arms evenly at the upper sides of the torso.
- Sew the ears to the head so they droop behind the bonnet line.
- Dress the bunny in the bloomers and tack in place.
- Add the shoe overlays.
- Fit and sew the bonnet lightly at the crown and near the ears.
- Tie the bonnet under the chin.
- Place the capelet over the shoulders and tie at the front.
- Attach the floral vine and blossoms to the bloomers if not already done.
- Hang the market bag from one arm.
- Arrange the lantern, bouquet, date card, and penguin beside the bunny.
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Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Check the face from the front before securing the bonnet permanently. The eyes should be low enough to look gentle and wide enough apart to preserve the plush, calm expression. Keep the nose tiny and centered.
Steam or finger-shape the bonnet lace so the scallops frame the face evenly. Adjust the ears underneath until both sides fall naturally. Tie the neck bow softly rather than tightly so the bonnet looks delicate.
Place the capelet so it covers the shoulders without hiding the cream chest completely. The heart charms should hang near the front corners and remain visible from the front view.
Care Notes
This knitted set is best treated as a decorative soft toy. Gentle handling will preserve the lace bonnet, tiny accessories, and shaped floral details. If gifting to a child, consider omitting the smallest props and embroidering features very securely.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Body stands evenly and feels firmly stuffed
- Face is centered and symmetrical
- Ears droop at matching heights
- Bonnet scallops frame the face evenly
- Capelet sits above the waistline
- Heart charms hang at both front edges
- Bloomers show the curved bleeding heart vine
- Shoes reveal the cream foot opening
- Bag, lantern, bouquet, and date card are all included
- Penguin companion matches the main color story
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Spot clean with a barely damp cloth and mild soap only when needed. Avoid soaking the bonnet lace, bouquet, or stuffed body. Press moisture out gently with a towel and reshape by hand.
Let all pieces dry flat away from direct heat or strong sun. Store the set in a clean dry box lined with tissue paper. Keep the lantern and bouquet separate if you want to protect the tiny shaped details during storage.
If the bonnet or capelet loses shape, use a light steam from a short distance and smooth with your fingers. Do not overheat the fibers. For long-term display, dust gently with a soft brush and keep away from humidity.
