A soft bunny dressed for a garden brunch always feels timeless, giftable, and charming. This design combines a cream rabbit, a sage dress, a taupe cardigan, a textured yellow beret, and several tiny table accessories that give the whole set a collectible boutique feel. It is a lovely choice for handmade nursery decor, spring display styling, heirloom toy knitting, seasonal gift ideas, and buyers searching for knitted bunny dolls, dressed animal dolls, and luxury handmade soft toys.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Materials
- Main bunny yarn: light fingering or fine sport weight in warm cream.
- Dress yarn: fine sport weight in soft sage green.
- Cardigan yarn: fine sport weight in muted taupe-beige.
- Mimosa flower yarn: fine sport weight in rich golden yellow.
- Leaf and stem yarn: fine sport weight in dusty olive and leafy green.
- Owl yarn: cream-beige, warm brown, and golden yellow.
- Bag yarn: sandy beige and a tiny amount of yellow for the button.
- Mug yarn: cream, brown, and yellow.
- Orange slice yarn: orange and cream.
- Stuffing: soft toy stuffing, packed firmly but evenly.
- Needles: a set of double-pointed needles or magic loop needles sized to create a dense fabric with no visible gaps. Choose a needle size about 2 to 3 sizes smaller than the yarn label suggests.
- Notions: stitch markers, tapestry needle, waste yarn, small sharp scissors, pins, and optional tiny pellets for weighted feet.
- Eyes: small black safety eyes or black embroidery yarn.
Finished Size
The bunny stands at approximately 10 to 11 inches tall from the sole of the feet to the top of the head, not including the beret height. The owl stands about 3 inches tall. The bag is sized to sit beside the bunny, and the mug, orange slice, and mimosa bouquet are all scaled to match the tabletop scene in the image.
Gauge
Gauge is less important than firmness, but your knitted fabric should be dense enough that stuffing does not show through. Aim for an even, compact stockinette fabric with clean shaping and smooth seams.
Design Notes
This bunny has a gently rounded head, long hanging ears, a plump torso, short legs, and softly shaped arms. The dress is worked as a separate garment with a wide skirt. The cardigan is also separate and slightly cropped, ending above the skirt fullness.
The beret is an important feature in this design. It sits low over the forehead and has small bobble clusters across the crown and around the edge. The floral details on the cardigan and hemline should look like mimosa blossoms rather than large roses or daisies.
The styling in the image is delicate and balanced. Keep all accessories tidy, slightly miniature, and neat. Avoid oversized props. The overall palette is cream, taupe, sage, honey yellow, olive, and warm brown.
Abbreviations
- CO = cast on
- BO = bind off
- k = knit
- p = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
- ssk = slip, slip, knit
- k2tog = knit 2 together
- m1 = make 1 increase
- pm = place marker
- sm = slip marker
- rep = repeat
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- bobble = work into one stitch as k, p, k, p, k; turn, p5; turn, k5; turn, p5; turn, k5; pass 4 stitches over the first stitch
- I-cord = small narrow knitted cord
Bunny Overview
The bunny is made in separate parts: head, muzzle shaping, ears, body, legs, feet, arms, dress, cardigan, and beret. The head and body are sewn together. The dress and cardigan are removable if you prefer, though the cardigan will sit best when lightly tacked at the shoulder line.
Head
Using cream, CO 12 stitches evenly across 3 needles, or use magic loop. Join carefully for working in the round.
- Round 1: Knit all stitches.
- Round 2: Kfb in every stitch. 24 stitches.
- Round 3: Knit.
- Round 4: K1, kfb around. 36 stitches.
- Round 5: Knit.
- Round 6: K2, kfb around. 48 stitches.
- Round 7: Knit.
- Round 8: K3, kfb around. 60 stitches.
- Rounds 9 to 20: Knit evenly.
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At this stage the head should be softly round, slightly taller than it is wide, and not flattened. Keep your tension even because the face is very visible in the finished piece.
For the face, the front panel should remain smooth. Place markers to indicate eye placement between Rounds 14 and 15, spaced about 9 to 10 stitches apart. The eyes in the image are small, subtle, and calm, not oversized.
- Round 21: K8, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before side, ssk, k16, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before end, ssk, k8. Decrease 4 stitches.
- Round 22: Knit.
- Round 23: Repeat Round 21. 52 stitches.
- Rounds 24 to 26: Knit.
This slight narrowing creates the gentle lower-face taper seen in the image. Do not overdo it. The bunny’s cheeks stay soft and rounded.
- Round 27: K2, k2tog around. 39 stitches.
- Round 28: Knit.
- Round 29: K1, k2tog around. 26 stitches.
Insert eyes now if using safety eyes. Stuff the head firmly, paying special attention to the forehead, cheeks, and chin. Add tiny amounts gradually so the face stays smooth. Embroidered eyes may be added later.
- Round 30: K2tog around. 13 stitches.
- Round 31: Knit.
Cut yarn, thread through remaining stitches, pull closed, and secure.
Muzzle Shaping and Nose
The image shows a slim stitched nose with a short vertical line descending to a small split mouth. This effect is easiest when added after stuffing.
Thread cream yarn through the lower center of the face to create very slight horizontal muzzle definition. Take one shallow stitch from side to side, gently pulling just enough to define the snout without creating deep indentations.
With taupe-brown or dark brown embroidery yarn, stitch a small upside-down Y shape. The upper two slanted stitches form the nose, and the center line drops down to a tiny split at the base. Keep it delicate. The expression should look peaceful and natural.
Ears
Make 2 in cream. Work flat.
- CO 10 stitches.
- Row 1: Purl.
- Row 2: Knit.
- Row 3: Purl.
- Row 4: K1, m1, knit to last stitch, m1, k1. 12 stitches.
- Row 5: Purl.
- Row 6: Knit.
- Row 7: Purl.
- Row 8: K1, m1, knit to last stitch, m1, k1. 14 stitches.
- Rows 9 to 22: Work in stockinette, beginning with a purl row.
- Row 23: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
- Row 24: Purl.
- Repeat Rows 23 and 24 until 6 stitches remain.
- Next row: Ssk, k2tog. 4 stitches.
- Next row: Purl.
- Next row: Ssk, k2tog. 2 stitches.
- BO.
Sew side edges lightly, leaving the cast-on edge open. Do not stuff. Flatten each ear and lightly fold the lower edge inward so the ear hangs close to the head. The ears in the image are long, narrow, and softly drooping.
Body
The bunny’s body is compact and slightly pear-shaped beneath the clothing. It should support the dress without making the doll look bulky. Work from the bottom up in cream.
- CO 12 stitches and join in the round.
- Round 1: Knit.
- Round 2: Kfb around. 24 stitches.
- Round 3: Knit.
- Round 4: K1, kfb around. 36 stitches.
- Rounds 5 to 10: Knit.
- Round 11: K5, m1 around. 42 stitches.
- Rounds 12 to 18: Knit.
- Round 19: K6, m1 around. 48 stitches.
- Rounds 20 to 26: Knit.
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This is the widest torso area. It gives the dress enough support while keeping the bunny’s upper body soft and toy-like.
- Round 27: K6, k2tog around. 42 stitches.
- Round 28: Knit.
- Round 29: K5, k2tog around. 36 stitches.
- Rounds 30 to 33: Knit.
- Round 34: K4, k2tog around. 30 stitches.
- Rounds 35 to 37: Knit.
Stuff firmly, especially through the lower torso. The top should still compress slightly so the head can nestle in naturally.
Leave a long tail for sewing the body to the head.
Legs and Feet
Make 2 in cream. The legs are short, straight, and sturdy. The feet are gently rounded, not elongated. You may add a pinch of weighted filling in the lower foot if desired.
- CO 10 stitches and join in the round.
- Round 1: Knit.
- Round 2: Kfb around. 20 stitches.
- Rounds 3 to 6: Knit.
- Round 7: K3, k2tog around. 16 stitches.
- Rounds 8 to 14: Knit.
- Round 15: Purl.
- Round 16: Knit.
- Rounds 17 to 20: Knit.
The slight purl ridge suggests the top of the soft boot or sock line shown in the image. Stuff the foot firmly and the upper leg a little more lightly.
Close the top by flattening the opening and using three-needle bind-off or grafting. Sew each leg to the lower body, spaced so the bunny stands straight beneath the skirt. The legs should angle slightly forward, as in the image.
Arms
Make 2 in cream, then continue the upper sleeve shaping in taupe if you want an integrated look, or keep the arms cream and let the cardigan sleeves cover them. For the cleanest result, work the hands and lower arms in cream.
- CO 8 stitches and join in the round.
- Round 1: Knit.
- Round 2: Kfb around. 16 stitches.
- Rounds 3 to 6: Knit.
- Round 7: K2, k2tog around. 12 stitches.
- Rounds 8 to 18: Knit.
Stuff lightly. The arms in the image are soft, slightly curved, and proportionally short. Close the upper edge and sew at the shoulder line so the hands rest near the sides of the skirt.
Dress
The dress is sage green, sleeveless under the cardigan, with a fitted upper section and a gently flared skirt. The hem features a decorative band of yellow mimosa-like blossoms linked by small green leaf forms.
Work from the hem upward.
- Using sage green, CO 88 stitches and join in the round.
- Rounds 1 to 4: K1, p1 rib.
- Rounds 5 to 18: Knit.
For a soft skirt curve, add subtle shaping.
- Round 19: K10, k2tog around. 80 stitches.
- Rounds 20 to 25: Knit.
- Round 26: K8, k2tog around. 72 stitches.
- Rounds 27 to 32: Knit.
- Round 33: K7, k2tog around. 64 stitches.
- Rounds 34 to 40: Knit.
The skirt should now look gently full but not gathered too heavily. This matches the image, where the dress falls neatly and has a tidy A-line silhouette.
- Round 41: Purl.
- Rounds 42 to 47: Knit.
- Round 48: K2tog around. 32 stitches.
Separate front and back for the bodice if desired, or continue in the round and finish with straps. For the image, the bodice is mostly hidden, so a simple strapless inner top works well under the cardigan.
- Rounds 49 to 54: Knit.
- Round 55: K1, p1 rib.
- Round 56: K1, p1 rib.
- BO loosely in rib.
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Try the dress on the bunny. It should sit just below the knee and flare softly. If you want a closer fit at the waist, thread matching yarn through the inside at waist level and draw in slightly.
Dress Hem Mimosa Garland
Using olive green and yellow, embroider or attach the lower trim after the dress is complete. This decoration is essential to the image.
- Place a shallow olive V stitch every 4 to 5 stitches around the lower skirt to form paired leaves.
- Between leaf pairs, attach tiny yellow knitted knots, French-knot style stitches, or miniature bobble clusters.
- Create linked clusters so the blossoms appear like a loose garland running around the hem.
Keep the flowers small and rounded. The image shows repeating yellow puff dots rather than flat petals.
Cardigan
The cardigan is cropped, taupe-beige, and worn open at the front. It has long sleeves and mimosa branch decorations on both fronts and sleeves. The texture is smooth, with a neat edge band and light volume in the sleeves.
Work flat from the lower back edge upward, then pick up for fronts and sleeves, or knit in separate pieces. The following method uses separate pieces for more control.
Back
- Using taupe, CO 30 stitches.
- Rows 1 to 4: K1, p1 rib.
- Rows 5 to 20: Work in stockinette.
- Row 21: BO 3 stitches at each end for armholes. 24 stitches.
- Rows 22 to 30: Work even.
- Row 31: K7, BO 10, k7.
- Rows 32 to 34: Work each shoulder separately.
- BO all stitches.
Left Front
- CO 16 stitches.
- Rows 1 to 4: K1, p1 rib.
- Rows 5 to 20: Work in stockinette, keeping 3 stitches at front edge in garter for the front band.
- Row 21: BO 3 stitches at side edge for armhole.
- Rows 22 to 26: Work even.
- Row 27: BO 4 stitches at neck edge.
- Rows 28 to 34: Work even.
- BO remaining shoulder stitches.
Right Front
Work as left front, reversing shaping.
Sleeves
Make 2.
- CO 18 stitches.
- Rows 1 to 4: K1, p1 rib.
- Rows 5 to 10: Stockinette.
- Row 11: K1, m1, knit to last stitch, m1, k1. 20 stitches.
- Rows 12 to 16: Stockinette.
- Increase as set every 6th row until 26 stitches.
- Work even until sleeve length matches the image, reaching the wrist with a soft puffed upper arm.
- BO 3 stitches at the start of the next 2 rows.
- Then decrease 1 stitch at each end every RS row 4 times.
- BO remaining stitches.
Sew shoulder seams, set in sleeves, and sew side and sleeve seams.
Cardigan Mimosa Embroidery
This is one of the main visual features, so take time here.
- On each front, stitch an olive stem line rising diagonally from lower outer edge toward upper inner chest.
- Add short branchlets using straight stitches in olive.
- At the end of branchlets, attach small yellow bobbles or tight wrapped knots.
- Cluster the yellow dots in groups of 3 to 6.
- Repeat smaller floral branches on each outer sleeve.
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The cardigan in the image has decorative yellow flower puffs placed mainly on the fronts and sleeves, with the back left plain. This helps the front styling remain elegant rather than too busy.
Beret
The beret is mustard yellow, softly slouchy, and covered in evenly spaced bobbles. It sits low over the forehead, with the lower edge hugging the head comfortably.
Using yellow, CO 48 stitches and join in the round.
- Rounds 1 to 5: K1, p1 rib.
- Round 6: K3, m1 around. 60 stitches.
- Round 7: Knit.
- Round 8: K4, m1 around. 72 stitches.
- Round 9: Knit.
Begin bobble placement. Stagger the bobbles so they look scattered but balanced.
- Round 10: K5, bobble, repeat around.
- Round 11: Knit.
- Round 12: K2, bobble, k8, repeat around.
- Round 13: Knit.
- Round 14: K6, bobble, repeat around.
- Round 15: Knit.
- Round 16: K3, bobble, k9, repeat around.
- Round 17: Knit.
The beret should now be wide enough to puff slightly above the brim, as shown in the image.
- Round 18: K4, k2tog around. 60 stitches.
- Round 19: Knit.
- Round 20: K3, k2tog around. 48 stitches.
- Round 21: Knit.
- Round 22: K2, k2tog around. 36 stitches.
- Round 23: Knit.
- Round 24: K1, k2tog around. 24 stitches.
- Round 25: Knit.
- Round 26: K2tog around. 12 stitches.
Thread yarn through remaining stitches and close. Add a few extra small bobbles near the lower outer edge if you want the brim to match the image more closely. Lightly block over a small bowl to create the rounded beret shape.
Owl Companion
The owl is small, round-bodied, and slightly shorter than the bunny’s lower leg. It has a cream-beige front, brown wings, a tiny yellow beret, round dark eyes, and a tiny beak.
Owl Body
- Using cream-beige, CO 10 stitches and join in the round.
- Round 1: Knit.
- Round 2: Kfb around. 20 stitches.
- Round 3: Knit.
- Round 4: K1, kfb around. 30 stitches.
- Rounds 5 to 12: Knit.
For subtle body texture, you may alternate tiny columns of knit and purl, but keep the effect gentle. The image suggests a softly feathered look rather than strongly patterned plumage.
- Round 13: K3, k2tog around. 24 stitches.
- Round 14: Knit.
- Round 15: K2, k2tog around. 18 stitches.
Stuff firmly.
- Round 16: K1, k2tog around. 12 stitches.
- Round 17: K2tog around. 6 stitches.
Close the top.
Wings
Make 2 in brown.
- CO 8 stitches.
- Rows 1 to 6: Stockinette.
- Row 7: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
- Row 8: Purl.
- Repeat until 4 stitches remain.
- BO.
Sew to owl sides.
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Eyes and Beak
Add 2 small black eyes and a tiny orange-brown triangle beak between them. Keep the expression wide-eyed and gentle.
Owl Beret
Using yellow, CO 18 stitches and join.
- Round 1: K1, p1 rib.
- Round 2: K1, p1 rib.
- Round 3: K2, m1 around. 24 stitches.
- Round 4: Knit.
- Round 5: K2tog around. 12 stitches.
- Round 6: Knit.
Draw closed and place at a jaunty angle on the owl’s head.
Woven-Style Clutch Bag
The bag is rectangular, beige, and finished with a flap and a tiny yellow button. It sits flat on the table.
- Using beige, CO 18 stitches.
- Rows 1 to 8: Work seed stitch.
- Rows 9 to 18: Continue seed stitch, but every fourth row slip 2 stitches to create a basket-like texture.
- Rows 19 to 24: Work plain seed stitch.
- Row 25: Knit 2 together at each side edge.
- Rows 26 to 30: Continue seed stitch for flap.
- BO.
Fold the lower section upward and sew side seams. Add a tiny yellow knitted knot or embroidered circle as the button. A short chain stitch or yarn loop may be added beneath the flap.
Mug
The mug is cream with a yellow rim and visible brown drink inside.
- Using cream, CO 8 stitches and join.
- Round 1: Knit.
- Round 2: Kfb around. 16 stitches.
- Rounds 3 to 7: Knit.
- Round 8: Change to yellow and knit.
- Round 9: Using brown, knit one round for the visible drink surface.
Stuff very lightly or leave hollow and close the base with sewing. Add a tiny I-cord handle and attach neatly to the side.
Orange Slice
This little prop is very small but adds warmth to the brunch setting.
- Using orange, CO 6 stitches and join.
- Round 1: Kfb around. 12 stitches.
- Round 2: K1, kfb around. 18 stitches.
- Round 3: Knit.
- Round 4: Using cream, knit.
BO. Flatten into a disk. Add one or two cream stitches radiating inward so it resembles a sliced citrus wedge.
Mimosa Bouquet
The bouquet is made of clustered yellow puffs with green stems and leaves. It should look loose and freshly tied.
- Make 10 to 14 tiny yellow bobbles or knot clusters.
- Knit or embroider 4 to 6 narrow green stems.
- Add small leaf sprays using olive-green straight stitches or tiny knitted leaves.
- Gather the stems together and tie with a strand of yellow yarn.
Keep the bouquet low and rounded. The image shows a hand-tied cluster resting on the table beside the owl.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Sew the head to the body securely, checking from every angle so the neck is centered. Attach the ears high on the head but close to the side seams, then let them fall naturally. Sew the arms just below the neck seam.
Dress the bunny in the sage dress, then add the cardigan. Position the beret low across the forehead and slightly tilted. If needed, tack the beret with a few hidden stitches so it keeps the same angle.
Check the face last. The eyes should be small and evenly spaced. The nose should sit low enough to give the bunny a gentle muzzle. A tiny blush tint is optional, but keep the look soft and natural.
Care Notes
- Handle the floral embroidery and bobbles gently.
- Store the set away from direct sunlight to protect the soft sage and yellow shades.
- If gifting to a child, secure all small parts firmly and replace safety eyes with embroidery for added peace of mind.
- Keep accessories together in a small pouch or box when not displayed.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Bunny head is round and firmly stuffed.
- Ears are even in length and attached symmetrically.
- Dress falls below the knees with a neat flare.
- Hem garland includes both yellow blossoms and green leaf shapes.
- Cardigan sits open at the front and ends above the fullest part of the skirt.
- Beret is textured with bobbles and tilted slightly forward.
- Owl is proportionally small beside the bunny.
- Accessories match the tabletop arrangement in the image.
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Spot clean whenever possible using a barely damp cloth and a small amount of mild soap. Press gently instead of rubbing, especially over the bobbles, floral embroidery, and facial details.
If deeper cleaning is needed, place the pieces in a mesh bag and hand wash in cool water. Reshape while damp. Do not wring. Roll in a towel to remove excess moisture, then dry flat away from heat.
For long-term storage, wrap the bunny and owl in acid-free tissue and keep them in a clean box. Avoid hanging the cardigan or beret separately, as miniature garments can stretch over time.
This finished set should feel like a quiet spring brunch scene in knitted form: soft, polished, warm, and full of tiny thoughtful details. When each piece is kept refined and well scaled, the final result will closely match the image, from the mimosa-trimmed outfit to the tiny owl companion and tabletop props.


