Anemone Sailor-Panel Bunny – Knitting

This knitted bunny set has the sweet, collected look of an heirloom toy, with a soft oatmeal rabbit, a cream sailor dress, a slouchy blue beret, and charming travel accessories. The large anemone motif gives it the polished finish people often search for in a knitted bunny doll, handmade nursery toy, collectible stuffed rabbit, baby shower gift, or boutique fiber art piece. The small badger friend, satchel, notebook, and binoculars turn the set into a storybook display, while the shapes stay simple enough for patient beginners who enjoy careful finishing.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• DK weight yarn in oatmeal beige for the bunny body and ears, about 70 g.
• DK weight yarn in soft cream for the dress, notebook, and flower contrast, about 60 g.
• DK weight yarn in dusty slate blue for the beret, collar edging, and the badger sweater stripes, about 35 g.
• DK weight yarn in deep rose pink for both anemone flowers, about 25 g.
• DK weight yarn in black for flower centers, facial details, binocular accents, and badger markings, about 20 g.
• DK weight yarn in chestnut brown for shoes, satchel, and the badger overalls, about 30 g.
• DK weight yarn in medium gray for the binocular bodies, about 8 g.
• A tiny amount of off-white or very pale gray for the binocular lenses if desired.
• Pair of 2.75 mm straight needles.
• Pair of 3 mm straight needles for the dress and beret if you prefer a slightly softer fabric.
• Tapestry needle, stitch markers, toy stuffing, pins, and sewing thread that matches your yarn colors.
• Two 6 mm black safety eyes, or black yarn for embroidered eyes.
• Four very small buttons in brown or wood tone for the bunny shoes and badger overalls. If the toy is for a young child, replace buttons with embroidered knots.

Finished Size

The bunny stands about 13 inches tall from the soles of the shoes to the top of the beret. Without the beret, the bunny is about 12 inches tall. The badger stands about 5 inches tall. The satchel is about 2 1/2 inches wide, the notebook about 1 1/2 inches tall, and the binoculars about 1 3/4 inches across.

Gauge

On 2.75 mm needles in stockinette, 28 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches. Exact gauge is less important than producing a dense fabric so the stuffing does not show through. If your knitting is loose, go down a needle size.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• k = knit
• p = purl
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• inc = increase 1 stitch by knitting into front and back of the stitch
• k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• rep = repeat
• St st = stockinette stitch
• garter = knit every row
• pm = place marker
• bobble = knit into front, back, front, back, front of one stitch, turn, p5, turn, k5, turn, p5, turn, k5tog

Design Notes

• The entire set is worked flat in separate pieces and seamed. This makes shaping easier to control and helps the finished toy match the soft, handmade structure in the photo.
• Leave long yarn tails whenever a piece will need to be sewn on later. This is especially useful for ears, flowers, the collar, and the tiny accessories.
• Stuff the bunny firmly in the head and body, lightly in the arms, and only lightly at the base of the ears. Keeping the ear tips flat gives the same gentle droop seen in the image.
• The dress is made as a separate garment. Dress the bunny before making the final neck seam completely tight, then settle the collar and tack the dress closed at the back.
• For the cleanest result, use mattress stitch on all visible seams and ladder stitch to close openings after stuffing.

Main Bunny

Legs

Make 2 in oatmeal beige.

1. CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 28: Work in St st, beginning with a WS purl row.
3. Row 29: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 12 sts.
4. Rows 30 to 34: Work even in St st.
5. BO loosely.

Sew each leg into a narrow tube. Stuff firmly from ankle to upper thigh. Flatten the very bottom slightly so the bunny can stand with support. Do not overstuff the top inch of each leg, because that softer area helps the legs sit naturally under the dress.

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Arms

Make 2 in oatmeal beige.

1. CO 12 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 20: Work in St st.
3. Row 21: inc 1 at each end. 14 sts.
4. Rows 22 to 28: Work even.
5. BO loosely.

Sew the long seam, stuff lightly, and flatten the upper edge. The arms in the image are slim and gently curved, not bulky. Keep the wrist end slightly narrower and the upper arm softly rounded.

Body

Make 1 front and 1 back in oatmeal beige.

1. CO 24 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in garter.
3. Rows 5 to 8: Work in St st.
4. Row 9: inc 1 at each end. 26 sts.
5. Rows 10 to 12: Work even.
6. Row 13: inc 1 at each end. 28 sts.
7. Rows 14 to 16: Work even.
8. Row 17: inc 1 at each end. 30 sts.
9. Rows 18 to 20: Work even.
10. Row 21: inc 1 at each end. 32 sts.
11. Rows 22 to 28: Work even.
12. Row 29: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 30 sts.
13. Rows 30 to 34: Work even.
14. Row 35: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 28 sts.
15. Rows 36 to 40: Work even.
16. Row 41: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 26 sts.
17. Rows 42 to 46: Work even.
18. Row 47: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 24 sts.
19. Rows 48 to 52: Work even.
20. BO.

The body should be a soft pear shape with a narrower top. This matters because the dress hangs straight over it, but the shape underneath creates the rounded, childlike silhouette from the image.

Head

Make 1 front and 1 back in oatmeal beige.

1. CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1 and 2: Work in St st.
3. Row 3: inc 1 at each end. 20 sts.
4. Rows 4 and 5: Work even.
5. Row 6: inc 1 at each end. 22 sts.
6. Rows 7 and 8: Work even.
7. Row 9: inc 1 at each end. 24 sts.
8. Rows 10 and 11: Work even.
9. Row 12: inc 1 at each end. 26 sts.
10. Rows 13 and 14: Work even.
11. Row 15: inc 1 at each end. 28 sts.
12. Rows 16 to 34: Work even in St st.
13. Row 35: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 26 sts.
14. Rows 36 and 37: Work even.
15. Row 38: Repeat decrease row. 24 sts.
16. Rows 39 and 40: Work even.
17. Row 41: Repeat decrease row. 22 sts.
18. Row 42: purl.
19. Row 43: Repeat decrease row. 20 sts.
20. Row 44: purl.
21. Row 45: Repeat decrease row. 18 sts.
22. BO.

The head in the image is broad, softly squared at the cheeks, and only slightly domed at the top. Do not make it too round. That gentle width is what gives the face its calm expression.

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Ears

Make 2 in oatmeal beige.

1. CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 10: Work in St st.
3. Row 11: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 12 sts.
4. Rows 12 to 20: Work even.
5. Row 21: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 10 sts.
6. Rows 22 to 30: Work even.
7. Row 31: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 8 sts.
8. Rows 32 to 36: Work even.
9. Row 37: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 6 sts.
10. Rows 38 and 39: Work even.
11. Row 40: k2tog three times. 3 sts.
12. BO.

Sew the ear seams neatly. Add only a fingertip of stuffing at each ear base, then leave the rest flat. Fold the top inch of each ear inward before sewing them to the head. This creates the soft downward swing shown in the photo.

Assembling the Bunny Base

Sew the body front to the body back, leaving the top edge open. Insert the two legs into the lower edge as you seam, spacing them about 1 inch apart. The feet should angle slightly outward, just enough to echo the relaxed stance in the picture.

Stuff the body firmly, then close the top. Sew the head front and back together, leaving the lower neck edge open. Stuff the head very firmly at the cheeks and crown, but keep the lower face slightly softer so the nose shaping can settle naturally.

Sew the head to the body with a strong backstitch, then wrap a few extra stitches around the neck base to secure it. Attach the arms high on the sides of the body so the hands rest just above the flower on the dress when the garment is in place.

Facial Placement Before Clothing

Place the eyes about 9 rows up from the lower edge of the head and 6 stitches apart. The eyes are tiny and dark in the image, so avoid oversized plastic eyes. Small satin stitched ovals in black yarn also work beautifully.

For the nose, use black yarn and form a short vertical stitch about 5 rows below the eye line. Add a tiny split mouth underneath with two short angled stitches. Pull a shaping thread lightly from the nose area into the lower face to create the gentle muzzle ridge.

Dress

Dress Front

Use cream yarn.

1. CO 42 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: Work in garter for the stable hem.
3. Rows 7 to 14: Work in St st, keeping the first and last 2 sts in garter for neat side edges.
4. Row 15: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. 40 sts.
5. Rows 16 to 22: Work even.
6. Row 23: Repeat decrease row. 38 sts.
7. Rows 24 to 30: Work even.
8. Row 31: Repeat decrease row. 36 sts.
9. Rows 32 to 38: Work even.
10. Row 39: Repeat decrease row. 34 sts.
11. Rows 40 to 46: Work even.
12. Row 47: BO 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows for armholes. 28 sts.
13. Rows 49 and 50: Work even.
14. Row 51: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. 26 sts.
15. Rows 52 to 58: Work even.
16. Row 59: k7, BO 12, knit to end.
17. Work each side separately for the shoulder straps.
18. Next neck row on each side: decrease 1 st at neck edge once. 6 sts each shoulder.
19. Work 4 rows even.
20. BO both shoulders.

Dress Back

Use cream yarn.

1. Work as for the front through Row 46.
2. Row 47: BO 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. 28 sts.
3. Rows 49 and 50: Work even.
4. Row 51: k13, BO 2, knit 13. This forms the back opening.
5. Work the two sides separately.
6. Rows 52 to 60: Work even, keeping center edges in garter.
7. Row 61 on each side: BO 4 sts at neck edge. 9 sts remain on each side.
8. Rows 62 to 66: Work even.
9. BO.

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Sew only the side seams and shoulder seams. Leave the back opening usable until the dress is placed on the bunny. A hidden whipstitch or tiny snaps can close the opening later.

Sailor Collar

The collar is the detail that gives this dress its exact personality. It should lie flat, angle outward over the shoulders, and finish with two pointed fronts. The edge is trimmed with a narrow blue line and a tiny white frill.

Left Front Collar

Use cream yarn.

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Row 1: knit.
3. Row 2: kfb, knit to end. 4 sts.
4. Row 3: knit.
5. Row 4: kfb, knit to end. 5 sts.
6. Continue increasing 1 st at the beginning of every RS row until you have 11 sts.
7. Work 10 rows even.
8. Shape the point by decreasing 1 st at the outer edge every 4th row 3 times. 8 sts.
9. Work 4 rows even.
10. BO.

Right Front Collar

Make a mirror image of the left front collar.

Back Neck Strip

1. CO 16 sts in cream.
2. Work 8 rows in garter.
3. BO.

Sew the two front collar pieces to the ends of the back neck strip. Stitch the finished collar around the dress neckline so the two front points sit symmetrically on the chest, just above the flower.

Using slate blue yarn, work one line of duplicate stitch close to the outer collar edge. Keep it clean and narrow. In the photo, the blue trim is delicate rather than bold, so one tidy outline is enough.

White Frill Trim

Use cream-white yarn.

1. CO 60 sts.
2. Row 1: knit.
3. Row 2: purl.
4. Row 3: k1, yo, k2tog across. This gives a tiny scalloped rhythm.
5. Row 4: purl.
6. Row 5: knit.
7. BO loosely.

Gather the strip very slightly and sew it under the outer collar edge so only the little rounded points peek out. This creates the soft decorative trim seen around both collar fronts.

Large Anemone Flower for the Dress

This flower is layered and dimensional. The black center is slightly raised, the white layer sits like a star behind it, and the rose petals form a full ring around the outside. Make the flower large enough to cover the middle front of the dress.

Black Center

1. CO 8 sts in black.
2. Row 1: purl.
3. Row 2: kfb across. 16 sts.
4. Row 3: purl.
5. Row 4: k1, bobble, rep to end. The last stitch is knit. You should have 7 small bobbles across the row.
6. Row 5: purl.
7. BO.

Roll the strip into a tight circle with the bobbles facing outward and sew the lower edge securely. This creates the same clustered dark center seen in the photo.

White Star Layer

1. Make 8 small points in cream.
2. For each point, CO 3 sts.
3. Row 1: knit.
4. Row 2: kfb, k1, kfb. 5 sts.
5. Row 3: knit.
6. Row 4: ssk, k1, k2tog. 3 sts.
7. Row 5: knit.
8. BO.

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Sew the 8 points in a ring behind the black center so they radiate outward like the pale star shape in the image. Let the tips extend just beyond the black center.

Rose Petals

1. Make 8 petals in deep rose pink.
2. For each petal, CO 3 sts.
3. Row 1: knit.
4. Row 2: kfb, k1, kfb. 5 sts.
5. Row 3: purl.
6. Row 4: k1, inc 1, knit to last 1 st, inc 1, k1. 7 sts.
7. Row 5: purl.
8. Row 6: k1, inc 1, knit to last 1 st, inc 1, k1. 9 sts.
9. Rows 7 to 10: Work in St st.
10. Row 11: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 7 sts.
11. Row 12: purl.
12. Row 13: Repeat decrease row. 5 sts.
13. Row 14: purl.
14. Row 15: ssk, k1, k2tog. 3 sts.
15. Row 16: purl.
16. Row 17: k3tog. 1 st.
17. Fasten off.

Sew the 8 petals around the white layer, slightly overlapping at the base. Arrange them so one petal points straight up and one points straight down, matching the bold centered flower on the dress front.

Attach the completed flower to the dress front about 2 inches above the hem. It should sit squarely in the middle and fill most of the front panel, just as it does in the image.

Beret

Use slate blue yarn.

1. CO 60 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 8: Work k1, p1 rib.
3. Row 9: Increase evenly across to 96 sts.
4. Rows 10 to 26: Work in St st.
5. Row 27: k10, k2tog across. 88 sts.
6. Row 28: purl.
7. Row 29: k9, k2tog across. 80 sts.
8. Row 30: purl.
9. Continue in this manner, reducing the knit section by 1 stitch on each RS decrease row until 24 sts remain.
10. Thread yarn through the remaining sts, pull tight, and seam the back.

The beret should not sit tight like a cap. Steam it lightly and press it over a bowl while damp so the crown relaxes into that soft rounded slump. The ribbed band should sit low on the forehead, with the crown tilted gently to the bunny’s left.

Small Hat Flower

Make a smaller version of the dress flower. Use the same black, cream, and rose yarns, but reduce each petal by one increase round so the flower measures about 2 inches across.

• Make 1 small rolled black center.
• Make 5 or 6 cream points instead of 8.
• Make 5 petals in rose, each ending at 7 stitches across at its widest point.

Sew the flower near the front side of the beret, close to the band. In the photo, the flower sits prominently on the hat and frames the face, so keep it large enough to read clearly but smaller than the dress flower.

Mary Jane Shoes

Make 2 in chestnut brown.

1. CO 16 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: Work in garter.
3. Rows 7 to 10: Work in St st.
4. Row 11: k5, k2tog, k2, ssk, k5. 14 sts.
5. Rows 12 to 16: Work even.
6. BO.

Fold and seam each shoe into a shallow slipper shape around the foot. Add a narrow strap by CO 10 sts and knitting 2 rows in garter. Sew one end to the shoe side, lay it over the instep, and fasten the other side with a tiny button or an embroidered knot.

The shoes in the image are softly rounded, with open tops and visible strap placement. Keep the toe broad and low instead of pointed. Once the bunny is fully dressed, tack the shoes lightly to the feet so they stay aligned.

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Satchel

Use chestnut brown yarn.

1. CO 20 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 20: Work in garter.
3. Rows 21 to 28: Work in St st for the flap.
4. BO.

Fold the lower 12 rows upward to form the bag body and seam the sides. For the strap, make a narrow i-cord or a 3-stitch garter strip about 10 inches long and sew it to the upper sides.

For the leaf detail on the front, make 3 tiny leaves. For each leaf, CO 3 sts, knit 1 row, kfb in each stitch on the next row, purl 1 row, then decrease back to 1 stitch. Sew the leaves in a small fan shape on the lower front of the satchel.

Notebook

Use cream yarn for the cover and black yarn for the spiral.

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Work 14 rows in garter.
3. BO.

Fold the rectangle in half like a tiny notebook. With black yarn, wrap 5 or 6 close stitches around the folded edge to suggest spiral binding. Add one tiny horizontal stitch on the front cover in blue or black to match the little dash seen on the book in the photo.

Binoculars

Use gray yarn for the body and black yarn for the ends.

1. Make 2 tiny tubes in gray: CO 6 sts, work 8 rows in St st, BO.
2. Sew each tube into a short cylinder and stuff very lightly.
3. With black yarn, thread-gather one end of each tube and cover the opposite end with a small stitched circle.
4. If you like, add a pale off-white stitch at the front of each lens for the reflected look in the image.
5. Join the two cylinders side by side with black yarn and add a tiny bridge stitch between them.

Badger Companion

The badger is small but important to the scene. Keep it compact, with a slightly oversized head, short legs, and a gentle forward stance. The face has a white center with dark side stripes, black ears, and a tiny black nose.

Badger Legs

Make 2 in black.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 10: Work in St st.
3. BO.

Seam and stuff very lightly. These form the lower legs and feet.

Badger Arms

Make 2. Use black for the first 4 rows, then work blue and white stripes.

1. CO 8 sts in black.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in St st.
3. Rows 5 and 6: Use slate blue.
4. Rows 7 and 8: Use white.
5. Rows 9 and 10: Use slate blue.
6. Rows 11 and 12: Use white.
7. BO.

Seam into slim tubes and stuff lightly. The striped sleeves should remain visible below the overall bib.

Badger Body

Make 1 front and 1 back in white.

1. CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: Work in St st.
3. Row 7: inc 1 at each end. 16 sts.
4. Rows 8 to 16: Work even.
5. Row 17: inc 1 at each end. 18 sts.
6. Rows 18 to 24: Work even.
7. Row 25: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 16 sts.
8. Rows 26 to 30: Work even.
9. BO.

Sew the body pieces together, inserting the legs at the base. Stuff firmly but keep the torso narrow so the overalls sit close to the body.

Badger Head

Make 1 front and 1 back. Work the back entirely in white. For the front, use white for the center 10 stitches and black for the outer 4 stitches, 2 on each side, to form soft side markings.

1. CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in St st.
3. Row 5: inc 1 at each end. 16 sts.
4. Rows 6 to 12: Work even.
5. Row 13: inc 1 at each end. 18 sts.
6. Rows 14 to 22: Work even.
7. Row 23: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 16 sts.
8. Rows 24 and 25: Work even.
9. Row 26: Repeat decrease row. 14 sts.
10. Row 27: purl.
11. Row 28: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 12 sts.
12. BO.

Make 2 small black ears by CO 4 sts, knitting 4 rows in garter, then BO. Fold each ear slightly and sew to the head top.

Join the head seams, stuff firmly, and sew to the body. Add tiny black eyes, a small nose, and a single short mouth stitch. The badger face should look alert but gentle, with the black markings sitting along the outer sides of the face rather than crossing over the center.

Badger Sweater

The sweater is a simple striped tube worn under the overalls.

1. CO 20 sts in slate blue.
2. Work 2 rows in k1, p1 rib.
3. Work 12 rows in St st, changing colors every 2 rows between slate blue and white.
4. BO.

Sew into a small body wrap and fit it around the badger torso. The seam may be hidden at the back. Keep the sweater close fitting so it does not puff under the overalls.

Badger Overalls

Use chestnut brown yarn.

1. CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 8: Work in garter.
3. Rows 9 to 14: Work in St st.
4. BO.

Wrap this piece around the lower body like short bib overalls. Sew the side seam at the back. For the bib, make a small rectangle: CO 6 sts, work 6 rows in garter, BO. Sew it to the upper front center.

For the shoulder straps, make 2 narrow strips by CO 3 sts and knitting 8 rows in garter. Sew them from the back over the shoulders to the bib front. Finish each strap with a tiny button or an embroidered knot to match the picture.

Dressing and Positioning

Place the cream dress on the bunny and close the back neatly. Sew the collar so it lies flat over the shoulders and points slightly downward at the front. Attach the large flower only after the dress is on the bunny, so its position stays centered.

Set the beret low over the head and slightly to one side. Attach the small flower near the front edge of the hat. Place the satchel, notebook, and binoculars at the bunny’s feet rather than sewing them permanently unless you want a fixed display.

Position the badger beside the bunny with the overalls facing forward and the head angled slightly upward. That small tilt helps recreate the companion pose from the image.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the bunny’s face before tying off your last threads. The eyes should be small, even, and quiet in expression. The nose should sit low enough to create the long, sweet muzzle typical of a rabbit, but not so low that the face looks stretched.

Sew the ears just behind the eye line and let them fall close to the cheeks. Tuck the beret over the ear base rather than placing it on top of the ears. This gives the same soft, dressed look as the sample image.

Care Notes

• Spot clean whenever possible.
• Keep strong heat away from the flower appliqués and the beret shaping.
• If the accessories are display pieces, store them together in a box so small parts do not go missing.
• Buttons are decorative. Replace them with stitched knots for child-safe gifting.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Is the dress flower centered and flat?
• Do both collar points match in length and angle?
• Is the beret tilted softly instead of pulled tight?
• Do the shoe straps sit across the top of each foot?
• Are the ears lightly stuffed only at the base?
• Does the badger sweater show clearly under the overalls?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For light dust, use a clean dry cloth or a very soft brush. For a marked area, dab gently with cool water and a small amount of mild soap, then blot with a towel. Never twist or wring the knitted fabric.

If the toy becomes damp, reshape the head, beret, dress, and flower petals while drying. Lay everything flat on a towel away from direct sunlight. Store the set in a breathable cotton bag or acid-free box to keep the colors fresh and the stuffing evenly shaped over time.