Knitting Tutorial: The “Antique Lace Maker” Bunny – Free Knitting Pattern

This heirloom-style bunny is designed to look like a collectible knitted rabbit doll with a soft vintage wardrobe, elegant lace-inspired details, and a gentle sitting pose. The finished set includes the bunny, dress, shoes, bonnet, shawl, little bird, and the small cylindrical cushion shown in the photo. If you love searching for a handmade nursery bunny, heirloom rabbit doll, vintage knitted toy, or gift for baby shower, this project recreates that same refined look in a fully handmade way while remaining approachable for patient beginners.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written to match the photo as closely as possible, including the long upright ears, rounded head, slim neck, softly stuffed body, long legs, narrow arms, layered skirt, delicate shawl, lace-trim bonnet, tied slippers, small bird, and the tiny cylindrical cushion resting in the bunny’s lap.

The bunny in the image has a graceful antique proportion rather than a cartoon proportion. The head is medium-large but not oversized, the body is slim and elongated, and the legs are noticeably long. The arms are lightly bent inward so the cushion sits naturally in front of the body.

The knitted fabric in the photo looks smooth, fine, and even. To achieve that appearance, use a lightweight yarn and knit at a firm gauge so the stuffing does not show through. The doll should sit at about 18 inches / 46 cm from the top of the ears to the bottom of the hanging foot when seated.

Finished Measurements

• Bunny seated height: about 14 inches / 36 cm from top of head to lower body
• Bunny full seated height including ears: about 18 inches / 46 cm
• Head height: about 4 inches / 10 cm
• Ear length: about 4 3/4 inches / 12 cm
• Body length: about 5 inches / 12.5 cm
• Arm length: about 4 inches / 10 cm
• Leg length: about 6 1/2 inches / 16.5 cm including foot
• Bird length: about 2 1/4 inches / 5.5 cm
• Cushion: about 3 inches / 7.5 cm long

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: fingering or light sport weight wool, merino, or cotton-wool blend in antique cream
• Dress yarn: same weight in soft ivory
• Shawl yarn: lace or cobweb-light fingering in ivory or champagne cream
• Bird yarn: small amount of white or pale pearl fingering yarn
• Cushion yarn: ivory fingering yarn
• Needles: US 1.5 / 2.5 mm double-pointed needles or magic loop for most pieces
• Optional larger needle for shawl: US 3 / 3.25 mm
• Two 5 mm dark brown or black toy eyes
• Embroidery floss: dark brown for nose and mouth, pale pink for light cheek blush if desired
• Polyester stuffing
• Small amount of weighted pellets in a pouch for the lower body if desired
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Thin ivory ribbon for slippers and bonnet ties
• Optional narrow heirloom lace trim for the bonnet edge to match the photo exactly
• Small wooden beads or short turned wooden pegs for the antique lace-maker tool bundle shown in the lap

Gauge

28 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in stockinette stitch on US 1.5 / 2.5 mm needles after light blocking.

The exact gauge matters because the photo shows a fine, dense surface and carefully scaled proportions. If your fabric looks loose or the stuffing shows through, go down a needle size.

Abbreviations

• BO = bind off
• CO = cast on
• dec = decrease
• k = knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• m1L = make 1 left
• m1R = make 1 right
• p = purl
• pm = place marker
• rep = repeat
• rnd = round
• RS = right side
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• St st = stockinette stitch
• WS = wrong side
• yo = yarn over

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General Construction Notes

The bunny is worked in separate pieces and seamed. Most parts are knitted flat and then mattress stitched because that method gives crisp control over shape and lets you match the exact sculpted look from the photo. If you prefer knitting small pieces in the round, you may adapt them, but the written pattern below is the photo-matching version.

Stuff the head firmly, the body moderately, the arms lightly, and the feet firmly. The legs should be soft above the foot so they drape when the bunny sits on an edge. That relaxed hang is important for recreating the image correctly.

Use neat invisible seaming. This design looks best when the seams disappear into the smooth cream fabric.

The Bunny Head

Make 2 identical head pieces. Work flat.

1. CO 12 sts.
2. Row 1 WS: p across.
3. Row 2 RS: k1, m1L, k10, m1R, k1. 14 sts.
4. Row 3: p across.
5. Row 4: k1, m1L, k12, m1R, k1. 16 sts.
6. Row 5: p across.
7. Row 6: k1, m1L, k14, m1R, k1. 18 sts.
8. Row 7: p across.
9. Row 8: k1, m1L, k16, m1R, k1. 20 sts.
10. Row 9: p across.
11. Row 10: k1, m1L, k18, m1R, k1. 22 sts.
12. Row 11: p across.
13. Row 12: k1, m1L, k20, m1R, k1. 24 sts.
14. Rows 13-23: begin with a purl row and work 11 rows in St st.
15. Row 24 RS: k1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1. 22 sts.
16. Row 25: p across.
17. Row 26: k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1. 20 sts.
18. Row 27: p across.
19. Row 28: k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1. 18 sts.
20. Row 29: p across.
21. Row 30: k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1. 16 sts.
22. Row 31: p across.
23. Row 32: k1, ssk, k10, k2tog, k1. 14 sts.
24. Row 33: p across.
25. Row 34: k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
26. Row 35: p across.
27. BO knitwise on Row 36.

Place the 2 head pieces together with RS facing out and seam around the curve, leaving the lower straight edge open. Stuff firmly, shaping the muzzle area slightly fuller than the crown. Close the bottom later when attaching to the neck.

Head Shaping for the Muzzle

To copy the gentle face in the photo, use strong horizontal shaping at the nose area.

• Thread matching yarn on a long needle.
• Enter at the base of one side of the head.
• Take a horizontal stitch across the front at the lower third of the face.
• Pull gently to create a subtle muzzle shelf.
• Repeat once if needed.
• Do not over-tighten. The photo shows a soft, refined muzzle, not a pinched one.

The Ears

Make 4 ear pieces, 2 for each ear. Work flat.

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Row 1 WS: p across.
3. Row 2 RS: k1, m1L, k1, m1R, k1. 5 sts.
4. Row 3: p across.
5. Row 4: k1, m1L, k3, m1R, k1. 7 sts.
6. Row 5: p across.
7. Row 6: k1, m1L, k5, m1R, k1. 9 sts.
8. Row 7: p across.
9. Row 8: k1, m1L, k7, m1R, k1. 11 sts.
10. Row 9: p across.
11. Row 10: k1, m1L, k9, m1R, k1. 13 sts.
12. Rows 11-21: work 11 rows in St st.
13. Row 22 RS: k1, ssk, k7, k2tog, k1. 11 sts.
14. Row 23: p across.
15. Row 24: k1, ssk, k5, k2tog, k1. 9 sts.
16. Row 25: p across.
17. Row 26: k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1. 7 sts.
18. Row 27: p across.
19. Row 28: k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1. 5 sts.
20. Row 29: p across.
21. Row 30: ssk, k1, k2tog. 3 sts.
22. Row 31: p across.
23. Row 32: k3tog. 1 st.
24. Fasten off.

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Seam two ear pieces together, leaving the cast-on edge open. Stuff only the lower third very lightly or leave unstuffed for a flatter antique ear. The photo shows ears that are smooth and upright, not thickly stuffed.

Pin the ears to the top of the head with a slight inward tilt. The left ear in the photo leans slightly left and the right ear stands a little straighter. Sew securely.

The Body

Make 2 body pieces. Work flat from lower body to neck.

1. CO 16 sts.
2. Row 1 WS: p across.
3. Row 2 RS: k1, m1L, k14, m1R, k1. 18 sts.
4. Row 3: p across.
5. Row 4: k1, m1L, k16, m1R, k1. 20 sts.
6. Row 5: p across.
7. Row 6: k1, m1L, k18, m1R, k1. 22 sts.
8. Row 7: p across.
9. Rows 8-17: work 10 rows in St st.
10. Row 18 RS: k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1. 20 sts.
11. Row 19: p across.
12. Row 20: k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1. 18 sts.
13. Row 21: p across.
14. Row 22: k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1. 16 sts.
15. Rows 23-27: work 5 rows in St st.
16. Row 28 RS: k1, ssk, k10, k2tog, k1. 14 sts.
17. Row 29: p across.
18. Row 30: k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
19. Rows 31-35: work 5 rows in St st.
20. BO loosely.

Seam the body pieces together, leaving the upper edge open. Add a little weight at the lower body if desired, then stuff moderately. The body should stay slim enough for the dress bodice to sit neatly.

The Legs

Make 4 leg pieces, 2 for each leg. Each leg has a longer tubular section and a soft flat foot. Work flat.

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1-8: work 8 rows in St st, beginning with a purl row.
3. Row 9 RS: k2, m1L, k6, m1R, k2. 12 sts.
4. Row 10: p across.
5. Row 11: k2, m1L, k8, m1R, k2. 14 sts.
6. Rows 12-18: work 7 rows in St st.
7. Row 19 RS: ssk, k10, k2tog. 12 sts.
8. Row 20: p across.
9. Row 21: ssk, k8, k2tog. 10 sts.
10. Rows 22-44: work 23 rows in St st.
11. BO.

When seaming, shape the lower 2 inches / 5 cm as a slightly flattened slipper-like foot and the rest as a soft narrow leg. Stuff the foot firmly. Stuff the leg lightly so it bends and hangs naturally. Make sure both legs are the same length.

The Arms

Make 4 arm pieces, 2 for each arm. Work flat.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1-6: work 6 rows in St st, beginning with a purl row.
3. Row 7 RS: k1, m1L, k6, m1R, k1. 10 sts.
4. Row 8: p across.
5. Rows 9-24: work 16 rows in St st.
6. Row 25 RS: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
7. Row 26: p across.
8. Rows 27-30: work 4 rows in St st.
9. BO.

Seam and stuff lightly. Flatten the hands slightly. Bend the finished arms inward when attaching so they rest over the skirt exactly like the photo.

Tail

Make 2 small circles or one tiny gathered puff.

1. CO 6 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: work St st.
3. Break yarn, thread through live sts, pull tightly into a tiny nub.

Stuff with a tiny bit of fiberfill and sew to the lower back of the body. The tail will be mostly hidden under the dress, but it adds shape.

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Assembling the Bunny Base

1. Sew the head to the body with the neck centered.
2. Sew the legs to the lower front half of the body so they hang when seated.
3. Sew the arms to the upper side edges of the body.
4. Add the tail to the lower back.
5. Check the seated posture on a flat surface before dressing the bunny.

At this stage, the bunny should already resemble the proportions in the image: upright head, narrow torso, long dangling legs, and a poised antique toy silhouette.

The Dress Bodice

The dress in the photo has a fitted upper section and a fuller skirt. The bodice is plain and vertical, letting the lace skirt stand out. Work the bodice flat in one piece, then seam at the back.

1. CO 28 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: k1, p1 rib across.
3. Row 5 RS: k across.
4. Row 6 WS: p across.
5. Rows 7-20: continue in St st.
6. Row 21 RS: k2tog, k24, k2tog. 26 sts.
7. Row 22: p across.
8. Row 23: k2tog, k22, k2tog. 24 sts.
9. Rows 24-28: work 5 rows in St st.
10. BO loosely.

Wrap around the bunny body under the arms to check fit. Seam the back neatly. The bodice should fit close but not tight.

The Skirt

The skirt is the key visual feature. It is long, soft, and flared with vertical lace columns. The photo shows an airy antique look, but not a very open lace. This version uses repeating eyelet leaf panels that echo the appearance closely.

Skirt lace pattern multiple: 12 sts.

Skirt setup: CO 120 sts. Work flat.

1. Rows 1-4: k every row for a soft garter waistband.
2. Row 5 RS: k all sts.
3. Row 6 WS: p all sts.

Lace Panel Rows 7-22: repeat these 16 rows across the skirt. There are 10 repeats of 12 sts.

1. Row 7 RS: k4, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k4
2. Row 8 WS: p all sts
3. Row 9 RS: k3, yo, ssk, k4, k2tog, yo, k3
4. Row 10 WS: p all sts
5. Row 11 RS: k2, yo, ssk, k6, k2tog, yo, k2
6. Row 12 WS: p all sts
7. Row 13 RS: k1, yo, ssk, k8, k2tog, yo, k1
8. Row 14 WS: p all sts
9. Row 15 RS: yo, ssk, k10, k2tog, yo
10. Row 16 WS: p all sts
11. Row 17 RS: k1, yo, ssk, k8, k2tog, yo, k1
12. Row 18 WS: p all sts
13. Row 19 RS: k2, yo, ssk, k6, k2tog, yo, k2
14. Row 20 WS: p all sts
15. Row 21 RS: k3, yo, ssk, k4, k2tog, yo, k3
16. Row 22 WS: p all sts

Repeat Rows 7-22 three more times, then repeat Rows 7-14 once. This gives a long skirt with balanced drape.

After the final lace rows, work 4 rows in garter stitch and BO loosely on the RS.

Lightly block the skirt to open the lace just enough. Do not overstretch it. Sew the skirt to the lower edge of the bodice, gathering very lightly if needed. The skirt should spread wide over the seated legs, just like the photo.

Optional Soft Tulle Underskirt

The image shows a faint translucent layer under the knitted skirt. If you want a closer photo match, sew a very soft ivory tulle strip into a simple gathered underskirt and tack it inside the waistband. This is optional, but it helps recreate the airy silhouette under the knit layer.

The Shawl or Shoulder Wrap

The bunny wears a delicate open wrap over the shoulders and upper arms. It drapes softly, almost like fine gauze. To keep the knitted version visually similar, use a lace-weight yarn and a slightly larger needle.

Work flat.

1. CO 56 sts.
2. Rows 1-2: k all sts.
3. Row 3 RS: k2, yo, k2tog across to last 2 sts, k2.
4. Row 4 WS: k all sts.
5. Repeat Rows 3-4 until piece measures about 12 inches / 30.5 cm from cast-on edge.
6. Work 2 more rows in garter stitch.
7. BO very loosely.

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Lightly steam or wet block. Drape around the bunny shoulders and stitch invisibly at the front and side. The wrap should sit lower on the upper arms and higher at the back neckline, matching the photo.

The Bonnet Base

The bonnet in the photo fits around the face and behind the ears, with a gathered look and a decorative lace edge. Start with a knitted bonnet base, then add either a knitted frill or a narrow lace trim for the closest finish.

Work flat.

1. CO 48 sts.
2. Rows 1-6: k every row.
3. Row 7 RS: k2, yo, k2tog across to last 2 sts, k2.
4. Row 8 WS: k all sts.
5. Rows 9-20: continue in St st, beginning with a knit row on RS.
6. Row 21 RS: k2tog across. 24 sts.
7. Row 22 WS: p across.
8. Row 23 RS: k2tog across. 12 sts.
9. Row 24 WS: p across.
10. Break yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull to gather the back of bonnet.

Sew the bonnet back seam. Fit around the head, allowing openings for the ears. Tack around the ear bases as needed so the bonnet hugs the head like the one in the image.

Knitted Frill for the Bonnet

If you do not want to use purchased lace trim, add this knitted edge.

1. Pick up 60 sts evenly around the front bonnet opening.
2. Row 1 WS: p across.
3. Row 2 RS: k1, yo, k1 across. 119 sts approximately.
4. Row 3 WS: p across.
5. Row 4 RS: k all sts.
6. Row 5 WS: p all sts.
7. BO loosely knitwise.

This creates a soft flutter edge. For an even closer match to the image, sew a narrow ivory lace trim on top of the knitted frill.

Bonnet Ties

• Cut two thin ivory ribbons about 10 inches / 25 cm each.
• Sew one ribbon to each lower front bonnet edge.
• Tie in a neat small bow under the chin.

The Slippers

The feet in the photo are covered by knitted slippers with tiny ribbon bows. These are made as shoe toppers sewn directly over the feet.

Make 2.

1. CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1-8: work 8 rows in St st, beginning with a purl row.
3. Row 9 RS: ssk, k10, k2tog. 12 sts.
4. Row 10 WS: p across.
5. Row 11 RS: ssk, k8, k2tog. 10 sts.
6. Rows 12-18: work 7 rows in St st.
7. BO.

Wrap each slipper piece over the front of a finished foot and seam underneath and at the back. Add a tiny ribbon bow at the ankle or across the top. The photo shows a very delicate tied finish, so keep the bows small.

The Little Bird

The bird is a small accent placed beside the bunny. It should look soft, rounded, and simple. Work flat in two body sides plus tiny wings.

Make 2 bird body pieces.

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Row 1 WS: p across.
3. Row 2 RS: k1, m1L, k1, m1R, k1. 5 sts.
4. Row 3: p across.
5. Row 4: k1, m1L, k3, m1R, k1. 7 sts.
6. Row 5: p across.
7. Row 6: k1, m1L, k5, m1R, k1. 9 sts.
8. Rows 7-12: work 6 rows in St st.
9. Row 13 RS: k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1. 7 sts.
10. Row 14: p across.
11. Row 15: k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1. 5 sts.
12. Row 16: p across.
13. Row 17: ssk, k1, k2tog. 3 sts.
14. Row 18: p across.
15. Row 19: k3tog. 1 st.
16. Fasten off.

Sew the two body pieces together, leaving a gap for stuffing. Stuff lightly. Shape the front into a beak point with one tiny horizontal stitch if desired.

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Bird Wings

Make 2.

1. CO 5 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: St st.
3. Row 5 RS: ssk, k1, k2tog. 3 sts.
4. Row 6 WS: p across.
5. Row 7: k3tog. 1 st.
6. Fasten off.

Sew one wing to each side. Add a tiny black French knot or bead for the eye.

The Cylindrical Cushion

The cushion in the lap is a small ivory roll with a delicate central lace look. This version is knitted as a tube and lightly stuffed.

1. CO 24 sts.
2. Rows 1-20: work in St st if flat, or knit every rnd if working in the round.
3. BO.

Seam into a cylinder about 3 inches / 7.5 cm long. Gather one end closed. Stuff lightly until rounded but still soft. Close second end.

For the decorative center, wrap a narrow strip of lace or a knitted eyelet band around the middle and stitch in place.

Eyelet Band for Cushion

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1 WS: p across.
3. Row 2 RS: k2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2.
4. Row 3 WS: p across.
5. Repeat Rows 2-3 until strip fits around cushion.
6. BO and sew around center.

The Wooden Tool Bundle

The bunny appears to hold a few tiny antique lace-making bobbins or pegs. To recreate the image, tie together several miniature wooden pegs or smooth narrow beads on thread and rest them at one side of the cushion. Stitch them lightly to the hand area so they stay in place.

Dressing Order

1. Dress the bunny in the bodice and skirt.
2. Add the slippers.
3. Drape and sew the shawl in place.
4. Put on the bonnet and tie the ribbons.
5. Sew the little bird to the skirt edge or place it freely beside the bunny.
6. Position the cushion in the lap.
7. Arrange the hands over and around the cushion.
8. Add the wooden tool bundle.

Eye Placement and Embroidered Face

The face in the photo is minimal and elegant. The eyes are small, dark, and spaced moderately wide. The nose is stitched in brown and extends into a short vertical line, then a tiny split mouth.

• Place each eye about 8 rows below the head crown and about 5 sts out from the center line.
• Before securing permanently, view the face from the front and slight side angle.
• The eyes should create a calm, downward-soft expression.
• Embroider a small Y-shaped nose and mouth in dark brown.
• Keep the embroidery fine. The photo shows very delicate line work.

Detailed Finishing Notes for Accurate Photo Matching

There are several details that matter if you want the result to look truly like the image rather than simply “a bunny in a dress.” The ears must be long and slim, not chubby. The bonnet must sit low enough to frame the forehead and cheeks. The arms must angle inward. The skirt must spread in a soft bell shape when seated. The wrap should look airy, not bulky.

Use very small stitches when sewing the garments in place. The dress should not twist around the body. The slippers should cover the front of the feet without adding thickness. The ribbon bows should be tiny and soft, not crisp and oversized.

If your bunny looks too modern, the most common causes are overstuffed limbs, a too-short skirt, a wide body, or a bonnet that sits too far back. Adjust those first.

Blocking Tips

• Block the skirt before attaching.
• Block the shawl very lightly to keep it gauzy.
• Do not heavily block the doll body pieces after seaming.
• Steam the bonnet edge gently if needed.
• Keep all cream tones within the same warm ivory family.

Helpful Beginner Notes

If you are newer to knitting toys, take the pattern one section at a time. Finish and stuff each piece before moving on. The shape comes from careful stitching and controlled stuffing as much as from the knitted rows themselves.

When a decrease row says ssk at the beginning and k2tog near the end, that keeps the shaping smooth and symmetrical. Try to work those decreases consistently on every matching piece so the bunny remains balanced.

For the lace skirt, place a marker every 12 stitches. That makes the repeated pattern much easier to track, especially if you are not used to lace knitting.

Yarn Substitution Advice

You can substitute with light sport weight yarn if needed, but keep the fabric dense and refined. Avoid fuzzy novelty yarns. A smooth wool, merino, or cotton-wool blend will show the antique styling best.

Choose shades described as ivory, cream, ecru, or antique white rather than bright optic white. The mood of the original image is soft and warm.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Attach the eyes first, then embroider the nose and mouth with two strands of dark brown floss. Add the ears, then the bonnet, then position the arms around the cushion. Make tiny hidden stitches to hold the shawl, cushion, and bird exactly where you want them.

Care Notes

Display indoors away from direct sunlight and humidity. This bunny is best treated as a decorative heirloom toy rather than a rough-play toy. If gifting to a child, securely fasten all small parts and replace bead eyes with embroidered eyes for safety.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Are both ears the same height and angle?
• Do the legs hang evenly?
• Does the skirt spread softly when seated?
• Are the eyes placed symmetrically?
• Is the bonnet low enough around the face?
• Are the slipper bows small and delicate?
• Do the hands rest naturally over the cushion?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Dust gently with a soft dry brush. Spot clean only with a barely damp cloth and mild wool-safe soap. Do not machine wash. Reshape by hand and air dry flat away from heat. For long-term storage, wrap in acid-free tissue and keep in a breathable cotton bag, not sealed plastic.