Knitting Tutorial: The “Scottish Walker” Bunny – Free Knitting Pattern

This charming heirloom-style bunny is dressed in a cozy cable sweater, a red and olive tartan-inspired skirt, a matching beret with a pom-pom, and simple little shoes. The design is perfect for knit toy lovers who enjoy collectible soft toys, handmade nursery decor, gift knitting, and boutique-style stuffed animal patterns. If you love searching for knitted bunny doll patterns, tartan toy designs, handmade rabbit gifts, or premium knitted soft toy ideas for your next project or to sell as a finished item, this sweet Scottish-inspired bunny is a beautiful choice for your needles.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern explains how to knit the full bunny shown in the image, including the main bunny, the cable turtleneck sweater, the tartan-style skirt, the beret, the shoes, the purple flower, and the small white terrier-style companion toy.

The bunny is designed as a seated toy with a rounded head, long soft ears, a slim neck, a compact upper body, lightly cylindrical limbs, and long dangling legs. The proportions are important for the finished look, so follow the shaping carefully.

The body is intentionally understated so the clothing remains the star. The sweater sits slightly oversized, the skirt flares gently without stiffness, and the beret is soft and slouchy with a snug lower band. The small dog is knit separately and posed beside the bunny.

Skill Level

Intermediate, mainly because of small-part construction, toy shaping, cable work, color patterning, and finishing accuracy.

Finished Size

• Bunny height seated: about 11 inches / 28 cm from shoes to top of beret, including pom-pom.
• Bunny body height without beret: about 9 inches / 23 cm.
• Dog height: about 3 inches / 7.5 cm.
• Flower length: about 2.5 inches / 6.5 cm.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: light DK cotton or cotton-blend in warm oatmeal beige, about 60 g.
• Sweater yarn: cream or soft ivory DK wool or wool-blend, about 45 g.
• Skirt and beret yarn: red DK and olive green DK, about 25 g of each.
• Shoes yarn: brown DK, about 15 g.
• Flower yarn: purple, green, and a touch of tan or muted gold.
• Dog yarn: white DK, with a tiny amount of black for nose and mouth.
• Needles for flat knitting: 3 mm and 3.25 mm straight needles.
• Optional double-pointed needles: 3 mm for very small parts if preferred.
• Tapestry needle for sewing up.
• Stuffing suitable for toys.
• Two black 6 mm safety eyes for bunny, or embroidered French knots if preferred.
• Two tiny black beads or knots for dog eyes.
• Cardboard template for pom-pom.

Gauge

26 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in stockinette stitch on 3.25 mm needles.

Gauge matters because the body proportions, clothing fit, and scale of the dog depend on it. A slightly firm fabric is best for toys, so do not knit loosely.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• k = knit
• p = purl
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• st st = stockinette stitch
• rs = right side
• ws = wrong side
• kfb = knit into front and back of same stitch
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• rep = repeat
• rem = remaining
• C4F = slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front, k2, then k2 from cable needle
• C4B = slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back, k2, then k2 from cable needle
• M1 = make 1 stitch by lifting horizontal strand and knitting into back of it

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Color Notes for the Tartan Sections

The skirt and beret in the photo have a soft tartan impression rather than a rigid woven plaid. To recreate that knitted look, use a simple repeating color block arrangement with red as the dominant shade and olive as the contrast shade.

Do not pull the contrast too tightly across the back. A relaxed float helps the fabric keep its soft drape. Because the skirt is small, keep the pattern compact and symmetrical.

• Tartan Repeat over 8 stitches: 6 red, 2 olive.
• Tartan Repeat over 8 rows: Rows 1 to 4 in main sequence, Rows 5 and 6 shifted, Rows 7 and 8 same as Rows 1 and 2.

Use the following small plaid sequence wherever the pattern says Tartan Pattern:

1. Row 1 rs: with red, k6, with olive k2, rep across.
2. Row 2 ws: p6 red, p2 olive, rep across.
3. Row 3: same as Row 1.
4. Row 4: same as Row 2.
5. Row 5: with olive, k2, with red k6, rep across.
6. Row 6: p2 olive, p6 red, rep across.
7. Row 7: same as Row 1.
8. Row 8: same as Row 2.

This creates the neat little grid effect seen in the image. If needed, catch long floats every 4 stitches on the wrong side.

Bunny Head

Knit 2 identical side head pieces in oatmeal beige on 3.25 mm needles.

The head in the photo is rounded but slightly longer vertically than a ball. The muzzle is not a separate snout. Instead, the face is formed by shaping and firm stuffing, then detailed with embroidery.

Head Side Piece (make 2)

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1 ws: p.
3. Row 2 rs: kfb, k6, kfb. 10 sts.
4. Row 3: p.
5. Row 4: kfb, k8, kfb. 12 sts.
6. Row 5: p.
7. Row 6: k1, M1, k10, M1, k1. 14 sts.
8. Row 7: p.
9. Row 8: k1, M1, k12, M1, k1. 16 sts.
10. Rows 9 to 19: work in st st, ending with a ws row.
11. Row 20: k1, ssk, k10, k2tog, k1. 14 sts.
12. Row 21: p.
13. Row 22: k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
14. Row 23: p.
15. Row 24: k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
16. Row 25: p.
17. Row 26: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
18. BO knitwise.

Center Head Gusset

This strip creates the top and back roundness of the head. Knit in oatmeal beige.

1. CO 6 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 30: work in st st, slipping first stitch purlwise on every row for a neat edge.
3. BO.

Sew the head side pieces to each long edge of the gusset, beginning at the nose end and working up over the forehead and down the back of the head. Leave the lower neck edge open.

Stuff the head very firmly, especially around the cheeks and forehead. Keep the lower face smooth and avoid overstuffing the nose point. The head should look soft and oval, not spherical.

Muzzle Shaping and Face Placement

Before attaching the head to the body, define the gentle muzzle line. Thread matching beige yarn through the lower center of the face, make one small horizontal pinch, and pull lightly to create a subtle nose area. Secure well.

Place the eyes 6 rows below the crown line and about 5 stitches apart, centered symmetrically. The eyes in the image are small, glossy, and neutral in expression. Keep them modest in size so the bunny remains gentle and handmade in style.

Ears

Knit 2 ears in oatmeal beige. The ears are narrow at the top, wider through the middle, and softly rounded at the bottom. They are sewn flat against the sides of the head, falling downward.

Ear (make 2)

1. CO 5 sts.
2. Row 1 ws: p.
3. Row 2 rs: kfb, k3, kfb. 7 sts.
4. Row 3: p.
5. Row 4: k1, M1, k5, M1, k1. 9 sts.
6. Row 5: p.
7. Rows 6 to 18: work in st st.
8. Row 19: k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1. 7 sts.
9. Row 20: p.
10. Row 21: k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1. 5 sts.
11. Row 22: p.
12. Row 23: k2tog, k1, ssk. 3 sts.
13. Row 24: p.
14. Row 25: k3tog.
15. Fasten off.

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Do not stuff the ears. Lightly steam if needed, then fold the cast-on end slightly inward. Sew each ear to the side of the head so the top attachment begins just below the beret line. The ears should hang with a soft, natural curve.

Body

The body is a slim, lightly tapered torso because most visible bulk comes from the sweater. Knit front and back separately in oatmeal beige.

Body Front

1. CO 16 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: work in st st, beginning with a ws purl row.
3. Row 5 rs: k1, M1, k14, M1, k1. 18 sts.
4. Row 6: p.
5. Rows 7 to 21: work in st st.
6. Row 22: k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1. 16 sts.
7. Row 23: p.
8. Row 24: k1, ssk, k10, k2tog, k1. 14 sts.
9. Rows 25 to 29: work in st st.
10. Row 30 rs: k4, BO 6, k4.

Complete each shoulder separately.

• Left shoulder: Row 31 ws: p4. Row 32 rs: ssk, k2. 3 sts. Row 33: p. BO.
• Right shoulder: Rejoin yarn to remaining 4 sts. Row 31 ws: p4. Row 32 rs: k2, k2tog. 3 sts. Row 33: p. BO.

Body Back

1. CO 16 sts.
2. Work as for Body Front through Row 29.
3. Row 30 rs: k5, BO 4, k5.

Complete shoulders.

• Left shoulder: Row 31 ws: p5. Row 32 rs: ssk, k3. 4 sts. Row 33: p. BO.
• Right shoulder: Rejoin yarn. Row 31 ws: p5. Row 32 rs: k3, k2tog. 4 sts. Row 33: p. BO.

Sew body front and back together at shoulders and sides, leaving neck open. Stuff firmly but keep the torso narrow and straight.

Arms

The arms are softly tube-like and slightly tapered toward the wrist. They are not long. When attached, they angle slightly outward from the shoulder and hang beside the sweater.

Knit 2 in oatmeal beige.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 12: work in st st, beginning with a ws purl row.
3. Row 13 rs: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
4. Row 14: p.
5. Rows 15 to 18: st st.
6. BO.

Sew side seam, stuff lightly, and close upper edge flat. When sewing to body, place the arms high, just under the sweater shoulder seam. Angle them down and slightly forward.

Legs

The legs are longer than the arms and remain thin. They dangle over the table edge in the photo. Knit 2 in oatmeal beige.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 20: work in st st, beginning with a ws purl row.
3. BO.

Sew seam, stuff lightly and evenly, then close top edge flat. Leave bottoms open if you want to insert directly into the shoes; otherwise close neatly and sew shoes over them.

Shoes

The shoes are simple, soft brown booties with slightly rounded fronts and a textured top edge. Knit 2.

Sole and Upper (make 2)

1. Using brown and 3 mm needles, CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: work in garter stitch.
3. Row 5 rs: k3, k2tog, k2, ssk, k3. 8 sts.
4. Row 6: k.
5. Pick up and knit 4 sts along left side edge, 8 sts across toe edge, and 4 sts along right side edge. 24 sts total if working in the round, or transfer to flat arrangement as preferred.

If working flat from here, divide as follows: 8 side, 8 front, 8 side, and use short rows through the center to form the upper. For a simpler flat version, use this shaped flap:

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: st st.
3. Row 7: k2tog, k4, ssk. 6 sts.
4. Row 8: p.
5. Row 9: k2tog, k2, ssk. 4 sts.
6. BO.

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Sew flap over the front of the shoe base. Gather back slightly. Add 2 or 3 tiny embroidered loops at the top edge to mimic the soft gathered opening seen in the image.

Slide each shoe onto the lower leg and sew securely. The shoes should be slightly roomy and rounded, not sleek or tight.

Sweater

The sweater is one of the defining details in the image. It has a high folded turtleneck, long sleeves, a generous fit, deep ribbing, and center cables with side rope cables. The overall effect is cozy but neat, not oversized to the point of bulk.

Knit in cream on 3.25 mm needles. Work front and back separately, then sleeves, then assemble.

Sweater Front

1. CO 28 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 8: work 2×2 rib as follows: k2, p2, rep across.

Set cable panel on next row.

• Row 9 rs: k3, p1, k4, p2, k8, p2, k4, p1, k3.
• Row 10 ws: p3, k1, p4, k2, p8, k2, p4, k1, p3.

Continue in pattern as established for 20 more rows, working the cable sections as follows:

• The 8 center stitches form a full braided cable: on every 6th rs row, work C4F, C4B across those 8 sts.
• The two 4-stitch side cable panels are twisted every 8th rs row: left panel C4B, right panel C4F.
• The purl channels remain as purl columns and separate the cables clearly.

Work until front measures about 4 inches / 10 cm from cast-on edge, ending with a ws row.

Shape armholes:

1. Row 1 rs: BO 2 sts, work to end.
2. Row 2 ws: BO 2 sts, work to end. 24 sts.
3. Row 3 rs: k1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 22 sts.
4. Row 4 ws: work in pattern.

Continue straight in pattern for 12 rows.

Shape neck:

1. Next rs row: work 8, BO 6, work 8.

Work each side separately.

• Left side: ws row in pattern. Next rs row: work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog. 7 sts. Work 2 rows. BO.
• Right side: rejoin yarn. ws row in pattern. Next rs row: ssk, work in pattern. 7 sts. Work 2 rows. BO.

Sweater Back

1. CO 28 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 8: work 2×2 rib.
3. Rows 9 to 36: work in st st for a smoother back, or continue simple 2×2 mock texture if preferred. The photo back is not visible, but a plain back keeps the toy comfortable and true to the front emphasis.

Shape armholes exactly as for the front. Continue until back is same height as front armhole start.

Shape neck:

1. Next rs row: work 9, BO 4, work 9.

Work each side separately for 3 more rows, then BO.

Sweater Sleeves (make 2)

1. CO 16 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: 2×2 rib.
3. Row 7 rs: k.
4. Row 8 ws: p.
5. Increase row rs: k1, M1, knit to last 1 st, M1, k1. 18 sts.
6. Work 5 rows st st.
7. Repeat increase row. 20 sts.
8. Work until sleeve measures about 3 inches / 7.5 cm, ending with ws row.

Shape sleeve cap:

1. BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 16 sts.
2. Row 3 rs: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 14 sts.
3. Row 4 ws: p.
4. Repeat these 2 rows twice more. 10 sts.
5. BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 6 sts.
6. BO remaining sts.

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Turtleneck Collar

Sew one shoulder seam. With rs facing, pick up and knit 28 sts around neck opening using 3 mm needles.

1. Work 12 rows in 2×2 rib.
2. BO loosely in rib.

Fold collar in half to the outside to create the thick turtleneck seen in the image.

Sew second shoulder seam, sleeve seams, and set sleeves into armholes. Sew sweater side seams. Dress bunny and tack sweater lightly at shoulders and lower back if needed.

Skirt

The skirt is red and olive, lightly flared, and sits just below the sweater hem. The volume is moderate, not full. It should stand away from the body slightly but still drape softly.

Use 3 mm needles. Knit flat in rows, then seam at back.

1. Using red, CO 48 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 16: work in Tartan Pattern.

Begin waist shaping.

1. Row 17 rs: k2, k2tog, rep to end. 36 sts.
2. Row 18 ws: p, following color placement where visible, or work all in red for inside neatness.
3. Row 19 rs: k1, k2tog, rep to last 2 sts, k2. 25 sts.
4. Row 20 ws: p.
5. Rows 21 to 24: 1×1 rib.
6. BO loosely in rib.

Sew back seam, leaving a small opening at top if you prefer to dress the bunny after assembly. Otherwise sew into a full ring and slide over the legs before joining body pieces permanently.

The lower edge should naturally ripple just a little. If the edge rolls, lightly steam the hem only.

Beret

The beret is soft, rounded, and slightly oversized for the bunny’s head. The color placement matches the skirt, with red dominant and olive accents. The pom-pom is red.

Knit flat in 2 pieces or in the round. The flat method is given here.

Beret Top (make 2 halves and seam, or work one full piece flat if preferred)

1. Using 3 mm needles and red, CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 10: work in Tartan Pattern.
3. Row 11 rs: k1, M1, work in pattern to last 1 st, M1, k1. 20 sts.
4. Rows 12 to 18: continue in pattern.
5. Row 19 rs: k1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 18 sts.
6. Row 20 ws: p in pattern.
7. Repeat last 2 rows 4 more times. 10 sts.
8. Row 29 rs: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
9. Row 30 ws: p.
10. Row 31 rs: k2tog, k4, ssk. 6 sts.
11. Cut yarn leaving long tail. Thread through remaining 6 sts and pull tight.

Make a second matching half if using half construction, then seam together. For a full flat construction instead, simply double the stitch count and work symmetrically.

Beret Band

1. Using olive, CO 32 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: k1, p1 rib.
3. BO loosely.

Sew band into a ring. Gather lower edge of beret top slightly and sew into the band. Make a dense red pom-pom about 1 inch / 2.5 cm wide and attach firmly to center top.

Place beret on the bunny at a slight angle, slanting down toward one ear, just like the photo. Tack it in place with a few invisible stitches.

Purple Flower

The flower is small but important because it balances the composition. It resembles a thistle-inspired bloom with a tan base, green stem and leaves, and a purple tufted top.

Flower Head Base

1. Using tan, CO 4 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: st st.
3. BO.

Roll into a tiny cone and sew.

Purple Top

1. Using purple, CO 12 sts.
2. Row 1: k.
3. Row 2: p.
4. Row 3: kfb in each st. 24 sts.
5. Row 4: p.
6. BO loosely.

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Gather one long edge tightly and sew to top of cone. Fray gently with the needle tip for a tufted bloom effect.

Stem

1. Using green, CO 3 sts.
2. Knit 10 rows in i-cord if you know the method, or work 10 rows garter flat and roll tightly.
3. BO.

Leaves (make 2)

1. CO 3 sts using green.
2. Row 1: p.
3. Row 2: kfb, k1, kfb. 5 sts.
4. Row 3: p.
5. Row 4: ssk, k1, k2tog. 3 sts.
6. Row 5: p.
7. Row 6: k3tog.

Sew leaves to stem. Attach bloom to top. Place flower in bunny’s hand and tack lightly.

Small White Dog

The tiny companion dog in the image has a stout little body, short legs, upright ears, and a compact muzzle. It looks like a miniature terrier or Westie-inspired companion. Keep the shaping simple and slightly blocky for the cutest result.

Dog Body (make 2 sides)

1. Using white, CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1 ws: p.
3. Row 2 rs: kfb, k8, kfb. 12 sts.
4. Rows 3 to 8: st st.
5. Row 9: k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
6. Rows 10 to 12: st st.
7. BO.

Dog Gusset and Underside

1. CO 4 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 20: st st.
3. BO.

Sew side pieces to gusset from nose over head and along back, then continue under belly. Leave a small opening for stuffing. Stuff lightly to medium so the dog stays squat and stable.

Dog Legs (make 4)

1. CO 4 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 5: st st.
3. BO.

Sew each into a tiny tube or fold flat and seam. Stuff minimally. Attach evenly beneath body so dog stands low.

Dog Ears (make 2)

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Row 1: p.
3. Row 2: kfb, k1, kfb. 5 sts.
4. Row 3: p.
5. Row 4: k2tog, k1, ssk. 3 sts.
6. Row 5: p.
7. Row 6: k3tog.

Sew ears upright on top sides of head. Embroider tiny black eyes, a triangular nose, and a short downward mouth line. Add one or two tiny white stitches around the muzzle if you want extra expression.

Main Assembly Order

1. Sew and stuff head.
2. Sew ears onto head.
3. Sew and stuff body.
4. Sew head to body, making sure chin sits slightly forward.
5. Sew arms to upper body.
6. Sew legs to lower body, spaced so they hang naturally when seated.
7. Attach shoes.
8. Dress bunny in sweater.
9. Add skirt over or under sweater edge as needed.
10. Place and tack beret.
11. Add face embroidery.
12. Place flower in hand.
13. Sew and finish dog.

Facial Embroidery Placement

The bunny’s face is simple and delicate. This is essential to the finished likeness. Overworked features will change the style completely.

• Nose: embroider a small inverted triangle or narrow satin-stitched V shape in dark brown.
• Mouth: from the bottom point of nose, stitch a short vertical line, then split into two tiny angled lines.
• Cheeks: optional single horizontal shaping stitch inside the head if you want a more defined muzzle.

The expression should remain calm, sweet, and slightly old-fashioned.

Styling Notes for Photo Accuracy

To make the finished toy match the image closely, keep the bunny slim and upright rather than chubby. The sweater should be cream, richly textured, and slightly longer than the waist. The skirt should begin just below the sweater and not flare too widely.

The beret should tilt to one side and sit low enough that the ears emerge from beneath it. The pom-pom should be full but not huge. The flower should be held in the left hand, and the small dog should sit close to the bunny’s right side.

The shoes should point forward slightly, with the legs hanging freely. Do not overstuff the legs or they will stick straight out instead of draping.

Helpful Finishing Tips

• Use small stitches when seaming toy parts so the joins stay nearly invisible.
• Stuff gradually with tiny pieces of filling rather than large clumps.
• Check symmetry often before fully securing ears, arms, and eyes.
• Tack clothing lightly if the toy is decorative and you want the outfit to stay perfectly positioned.
• Steam garments only lightly, especially the tartan sections, so texture is not flattened.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Join the head securely to the body with strong matching yarn, adding extra stitches around the back neck so the head sits upright. Sew the ears low and soft against the head. Embroider the nose and mouth after the beret is attached so the full character is visible before final face placement.

Check that both eyes align horizontally. Adjust the skirt so the tartan panels sit evenly. Tilt the beret slightly and stitch it down invisibly. Place the dog close to the bunny and sew only if you want a permanent display pair.

Care Notes

Display this bunny as a decorative knit toy or handle gently as a keepsake. Because of the detailed clothing, pom-pom, and companion dog, rough play may distort the shaping over time.

If giving to a child, replace safety eyes with fully embroidered eyes and secure every sewn part extra firmly.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Is the head firmly stuffed and centered?
• Do both ears hang at the same height?
• Does the sweater collar fold evenly?
• Is the skirt flare balanced front and back?
• Does the beret tilt softly to one side?
• Are the shoes aligned and the legs dangling naturally?
• Is the face delicate and symmetrical?
• Is the dog proportionally small beside the bunny?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean gently with a barely damp cloth and mild wool-safe soap. Avoid soaking, twisting, or machine washing, especially because the stuffing and sewn shaping may shift.

Dry flat on a towel and reshape by hand. Store away from direct sunlight and moisture. For long-term display, keep the bunny upright or reclined so the neck and leg seams are not under constant strain.