Knitting Tutorial: Moose in Striped Overalls – Free Knitting Pattern

This friendly knitted moose is designed with a warm brown body, long rounded muzzle, wide antlers, soft inner ears, striped green-and-cream overalls, tiny red flower motifs, a red scarf, brown sandals, a crossbody garden bag, a green hat with a flower, a small trowel, a potted succulent, and a tiny bee resting on the head. The finished toy is a detailed seated garden moose with cozy handmade charm.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size and Construction Style

This pattern creates a seated moose measuring about 12 inches from the bottom of the sandals to the top of the antlers when worked with DK yarn and firm stuffing. The body is knitted mostly in the round for smooth toy shaping, while some small accessories are knitted flat for easier detailing.

The moose in the image has a large oval head, a long rounded muzzle, slim arms, long legs, mitten-style black hooves, and wide cream antlers that spread upward behind the ears. The overalls are worked separately and fitted over the body so the stripe pattern, shoulder straps, and front bib sit cleanly.

• Skill level: Intermediate, with beginner-friendly explanations.
• Main technique: Knitting in the round on double-pointed needles or magic loop.
• Seaming: Mattress stitch, whipstitch, and small invisible tack stitches.
• Gauge: 7 stitches and 10 rounds per inch in stockinette using smaller needles.
• Finished toy height: Approximately 12 inches seated with antlers.

Materials

• DK weight yarn in warm chestnut brown for head, body, arms, legs, and muzzle.
• DK weight yarn in darker brown for inner ears, sandals, trowel handle, and optional muzzle shading.
• DK weight yarn in oatmeal or beige for antlers, hat flower center, bag strap, and bag.
• DK weight yarn in deep forest green for overalls and hat.
• DK weight yarn in cream for overall stripes and flower petals.
• Small amounts of red yarn for scarf and flower motifs.
• Small amounts of black yarn for hooves, eye pupils, trowel detail, and bee stripes.
• Small amounts of white yarn for eye highlights and bee wings.
• Small amounts of yellow yarn for bee body and tiny sandal flowers.
• Small amounts of gray yarn for trowel blade.
• Small amounts of leafy green yarn for potted succulent leaves.
• Small amount of terra-cotta brown yarn for plant pot.
• 2.75 mm knitting needles for toy pieces.
• 3.00 mm knitting needles for scarf, hat brim, and straps if you prefer softer drape.
• Set of double-pointed needles or long circular needle for magic loop.
• Yarn needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Removable stitch holders or scrap yarn.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Two small tan buttons for overall straps.
• Optional: black embroidery thread for sharper eye outlines.

Abbreviations

• CO: Cast on.
• BO: Bind off.
• K: Knit.
• P: Purl.
• Sts: Stitches.
• Rnd: Round.
• RS: Right side.
• WS: Wrong side.
• Kfb: Knit into the front and back of the same stitch, increasing 1 stitch.
• K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together, decreasing 1 stitch.
• SSK: Slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, knit slipped stitches together through back loops.
• St st: Stockinette stitch. Knit every round when working in the round, or knit RS rows and purl WS rows when working flat.
• G st: Garter stitch. Knit every row when working flat.
• I-cord: A narrow knitted tube worked over a few stitches.

Pattern Notes

Stuff the toy firmly, but do not stretch the stitches open. The moose should sit upright with the legs hanging downward from the edge of a shelf or table, just like the image. Use extra stuffing in the head and muzzle so the face has the full rounded shape.

The antlers are worked as separate flat, lightly stuffed branches and sewn behind the ears. The ears angle outward, and the antlers sit slightly behind them. This layered placement is important because it gives the moose the wide, woodland silhouette visible in the picture.

• Leave long yarn tails on all small pieces for sewing.
• Use tight stitches for the toy body so stuffing does not show.
• When changing colors for stripes, twist yarns neatly at the back of the work.
• For embroidered flowers, use small duplicate stitches or straight stitches after knitting.
• Block only the flat accessories lightly. Do not flatten the stuffed pieces.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Main Moose Head

The head is a tall oval with a long rounded muzzle at the front. Begin at the top and shape downward, keeping the widest point around the cheek area. Work in chestnut brown.

1. CO 8 sts and divide evenly over needles. Join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: K all 8 sts.
3. Rnd 2: Kfb in every st around. 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: K all sts.
5. Rnd 4: K1, kfb; repeat around. 24 sts.
6. Rnd 5: K all sts.
7. Rnd 6: K2, kfb; repeat around. 32 sts.
8. Rnd 7: K all sts.
9. Rnd 8: K3, kfb; repeat around. 40 sts.
10. Rnd 9: K all sts.
11. Rnd 10: K4, kfb; repeat around. 48 sts.
12. Rnds 11-22: K all sts for 12 rounds.
13. Rnd 23: K10, kfb, k26, kfb, k10. 50 sts.
14. Rnd 24: K all sts.
15. Rnd 25: K11, kfb, k26, kfb, k11. 52 sts.
16. Rnds 26-34: K all sts.
17. Rnd 35: K11, k2tog, k26, ssk, k11. 50 sts.
18. Rnd 36: K all sts.
19. Rnd 37: K4, k2tog; repeat to last 2 sts, k2. 42 sts.
20. Rnd 38: K all sts.
21. Rnd 39: K3, k2tog; repeat to last 2 sts, k2. 34 sts.
22. Rnd 40: K all sts.
23. Rnd 41: K2, k2tog; repeat to last 2 sts, k2. 26 sts.
24. Stuff the head firmly, shaping it into a high oval.
25. Rnd 42: K1, k2tog; repeat to last 2 sts, k2. 18 sts.
26. Rnd 43: K2tog around. 9 sts.
27. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull closed, and secure.

Long Rounded Muzzle

The muzzle is the most important facial shape. It should project forward and downward from the lower half of the face, with a soft oval end and a gentle taper where it meets the head. Work in chestnut brown, matching the head.

1. CO 10 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: K all sts.
3. Rnd 2: Kfb in every st around. 20 sts.
4. Rnd 3: K all sts.
5. Rnd 4: K1, kfb; repeat around. 30 sts.
6. Rnd 5: K all sts.
7. Rnd 6: K2, kfb; repeat around. 40 sts.
8. Rnds 7-16: K all sts.
9. Rnd 17: K8, k2tog, k20, ssk, k8. 38 sts.
10. Rnd 18: K all sts.
11. Rnd 19: K7, k2tog, k20, ssk, k7. 36 sts.
12. Rnd 20: K all sts.
13. Rnd 21: K6, k2tog, k20, ssk, k6. 34 sts.
14. Rnd 22: K all sts.
15. Rnd 23: K5, k2tog, k20, ssk, k5. 32 sts.
16. Stuff the muzzle firmly, adding extra stuffing at the front dome.
17. BO loosely, leaving a long sewing tail.

Place the muzzle centered on the lower face. The top edge begins around round 23 of the head, and the bottom edge sits near round 38. Pin before sewing. Sew around the muzzle with small mattress stitches, adding more stuffing before closing the final inch.

With darker brown yarn, make one small vertical shaping stitch at the lower front center of the muzzle. Pull gently to create a soft nose crease. Do not embroider a large nose, because the image shows a smooth knitted muzzle with subtle shaping rather than a strong black nose.

Body

The body is mostly hidden by the overalls, but it needs a sturdy pear shape so the toy sits nicely. Work in chestnut brown. The upper body should be slightly narrower than the lower body.

1. CO 10 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: K all sts.
3. Rnd 2: Kfb in every st around. 20 sts.
4. Rnd 3: K all sts.
5. Rnd 4: K1, kfb; repeat around. 30 sts.
6. Rnd 5: K all sts.
7. Rnd 6: K2, kfb; repeat around. 40 sts.
8. Rnd 7: K all sts.
9. Rnd 8: K3, kfb; repeat around. 50 sts.
10. Rnds 9-20: K all sts.
11. Rnd 21: K8, k2tog; repeat around. 45 sts.
12. Rnds 22-27: K all sts.
13. Rnd 28: K7, k2tog; repeat around. 40 sts.
14. Rnds 29-34: K all sts.
15. Rnd 35: K6, k2tog; repeat around. 35 sts.
16. Rnds 36-40: K all sts.
17. Rnd 41: K5, k2tog; repeat around. 30 sts.
18. Stuff the body firmly, keeping the bottom rounded.
19. BO, leaving a long tail for sewing the head in place.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Sew the head to the body with the head leaning very slightly forward. Use a strong circular seam around the neck. Add a little extra stuffing under the chin before the seam is fully closed so the head does not wobble.

Legs

The legs are long and slim, hanging from the overalls. Make two in chestnut brown. They should be firmly stuffed but flexible enough to sit over an edge.

1. CO 12 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-4: K all sts.
3. Rnd 5: K2, kfb; repeat around. 16 sts.
4. Rnds 6-32: K all sts.
5. Rnd 33: K2, k2tog; repeat around. 12 sts.
6. Rnds 34-36: K all sts.
7. Stuff lightly through the length, keeping the top slightly flatter.
8. BO, leaving a long tail.

Sew the legs to the lower front of the body with about 6 stitches between them. The tops should sit under the shorts portion of the overalls. Angle them forward so the sandals point outward slightly.

Black Hoof Tips

The image shows small dark hoof-like hands and matching dark accents on the feet. For the feet, make two rounded brown foot pieces and add dark sandal soles later.

1. With chestnut brown, CO 8 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: K all sts.
3. Rnd 2: Kfb in every st around. 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: K all sts.
5. Rnd 4: K1, kfb; repeat around. 24 sts.
6. Rnds 5-9: K all sts.
7. Rnd 10: K2, k2tog; repeat around. 18 sts.
8. Rnd 11: K1, k2tog; repeat around. 12 sts.
9. Stuff firmly into an oval toe shape.
10. Rnd 12: K2tog around. 6 sts.
11. Cut yarn, pull through remaining sts, and close.

Sew one foot to the end of each leg. The rounded toe points forward, and the narrower end connects to the leg. Keep both feet even so the moose appears balanced when seated.

Arms

The arms are slim brown tubes with black hoof ends. Make two. The right arm holds the small trowel, and the left arm is partly covered by the red scarf.

1. With black yarn, CO 10 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-5: K all sts.
3. Change to chestnut brown.
4. Rnd 6: K all sts.
5. Rnd 7: K2, kfb; repeat to last st, k1. 13 sts.
6. Rnds 8-31: K all sts.
7. Rnd 32: K1, k2tog; repeat to last st, k1. 9 sts.
8. Stuff lightly, keeping the arm narrow.
9. BO, leaving a long sewing tail.

Sew the arms to the sides of the body just below the neck. The arms should hang downward along the sides of the overalls. Add a few small stitches near the wrists if you want the right hoof to hold the trowel handle securely.

Outer Ears

The ears are large and leaf-shaped, placed horizontally outward from the sides of the head. Make two in chestnut brown.

1. CO 8 sts and work flat.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, k4, kfb, k1. 10 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Row 5: K1, kfb, k6, kfb, k1. 12 sts.
7. Row 6: P all sts.
8. Row 7: K1, kfb, k8, kfb, k1. 14 sts.
9. Rows 8-14: Work in stockinette stitch.
10. Row 15: K1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
11. Row 16: P all sts.
12. Row 17: K1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
13. Row 18: P all sts.
14. Row 19: K1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
15. Row 20: P all sts.
16. Row 21: K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
17. BO.

Inner Ears

The inner ears are darker brown and slightly smaller, giving the deep warm contrast seen in the image. Make two.

1. CO 6 sts and work flat.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, k2, kfb, k1. 8 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Row 5: K1, kfb, k4, kfb, k1. 10 sts.
7. Rows 6-11: Work in stockinette stitch.
8. Row 12: P all sts.
9. Row 13: K1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
10. Row 14: P all sts.
11. Row 15: K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
12. BO.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Sew each inner ear to an outer ear, leaving a narrow chestnut border visible. Fold the base of each ear slightly and sew the fold closed for cupping. Attach the ears to the head at rounds 20-26, one on each side, angled outward and slightly upward.

Wide Moose Antlers

The antlers are made in oatmeal yarn and should be thick, soft, and slightly flattened. Each antler has a central stem and two rounded prongs, matching the image’s wide cream antler shape. Make two mirrored antlers.

Main Antler Stem

1. CO 10 sts and work flat in stockinette stitch.
2. Rows 1-4: Work even, beginning with a knit row.
3. Row 5: K1, kfb, k6, kfb, k1. 12 sts.
4. Rows 6-16: Work even in stockinette stitch.
5. Row 17: K1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
6. Rows 18-24: Work even in stockinette stitch.
7. BO, leaving a long tail.

Antler Prongs

Make three rounded prongs for each antler: one tall center prong, one side prong, and one shorter outer prong. The prongs are sewn to the main stem with curved bases.

1. For the tall prong, CO 8 sts and work flat.
2. Rows 1-12: Work stockinette stitch.
3. Row 13: K2tog across. 4 sts.
4. Cut yarn, pull through the 4 sts, and seam the side.
5. For the medium prong, CO 8 sts and work 10 rows stockinette.
6. Next row: K2tog across. 4 sts.
7. Cut yarn, pull through the 4 sts, and seam the side.
8. For the short prong, CO 8 sts and work 8 rows stockinette.
9. Next row: K2tog across. 4 sts.
10. Cut yarn, pull through the 4 sts, and seam the side.

Lightly stuff each prong. Sew the tall prong to the upper center of the stem, the medium prong to the outer side, and the short prong to the lower outer side. Seam the main stem into a padded tube, stuffing lightly. Flatten the front side gently so the antler sits like a soft knitted paddle.

Sew the antlers behind the ears, beginning slightly above the ear bases. Angle them upward and outward. Use firm stitches through the head fabric so the antlers do not flop backward.

Eyes and Face Details

The eyes are oval black patches with small white highlights. They sit high on the muzzle area, giving the moose a gentle expression. Work each eye as a small knitted oval or embroider it directly.

1. With black yarn, CO 5 sts and work flat.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: Kfb, k3, kfb. 7 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Row 5: K all sts.
7. Row 6: P all sts.
8. Row 7: SSK, k3, k2tog. 5 sts.
9. BO.

Make two eyes. Sew them between rounds 20 and 27 of the head, about 9 stitches apart, just above the widest part of the muzzle. Add a small white stitch at the upper outside edge of each eye and a second white stitch near the lower outside edge to match the shiny look in the image.

Striped Overalls

The overalls are the most visible clothing piece. They are deep green with cream horizontal stripes, red flower details, a bib front, straps, and button accents. The lower half forms short legs over the moose’s thighs.

Overall Shorts Base

Work from the bottom upward in the round. Use forest green and cream. The stripe sequence should be green-heavy with cream bands across the body and legs.

1. With forest green, CO 54 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-4: K all sts in forest green.
3. Rnds 5-6: K all sts in cream.
4. Rnds 7-10: K all sts in forest green.
5. Rnds 11-12: K all sts in cream.
6. Rnds 13-18: K all sts in forest green.
7. Rnd 19: K12, BO 3 sts for first leg opening, k24, BO 3 sts for second leg opening, k12.
8. Rnd 20: K across remaining sts, casting on 3 sts over each bound-off gap to restore 54 sts.
9. Rnds 21-24: K all sts in forest green.
10. Rnds 25-26: K all sts in cream.
11. Rnds 27-32: K all sts in forest green.
12. BO loosely.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Slide the shorts base onto the body from the legs upward before attaching straps. Position the cream stripes evenly across the front. The lower stripe should sit above the legs, while the upper cream stripe sits across the belly.

Overall Leg Cuffs

Make two cuffs in forest green to define the shorts openings.

1. Pick up 22 sts evenly around one leg opening.
2. Rnds 1-4: K all sts in forest green.
3. BO loosely.
4. Repeat for the second leg opening.

Front Bib

The bib is a rectangular green panel on the chest with small red flower motifs. Work flat.

1. With forest green, CO 24 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: Work stockinette stitch.
3. Rows 5-6: With cream, work stockinette stitch.
4. Rows 7-14: With forest green, work stockinette stitch.
5. Rows 15-16: With cream, work stockinette stitch.
6. Rows 17-24: With forest green, work stockinette stitch.
7. BO.

Sew the bib centered to the front of the shorts base, from the belly up toward the chest. Leave the upper edge slightly free so it looks like a real overall bib.

Overall Straps

Make two green shoulder straps. They cross upward from the bib to the back, with buttons at the front.

1. With forest green, CO 6 sts.
2. Rows 1-42: Knit every row for garter stitch.
3. BO, leaving a sewing tail.
4. Make the second strap the same way.

Sew one end of each strap to the top corners of the bib. Bring the straps over the shoulders and sew to the back waistband. Add one small tan button at each front strap base. The buttons should sit just below the moose’s arms.

Red Flower Motifs on Overalls

The overalls show small red flowers along the bib and lower shorts. Embroider them after the overalls are on the body so placement looks natural.

• On the bib, place three red flowers across the center green area.
• For each flower, make one red vertical stitch, two red diagonal stitches, and one tiny cream stitch in the center.
• Along the lower shorts, place five small red flower clusters across the front cream-adjacent band.
• Add tiny green stems using one straight stitch below each red flower.
• Keep each flower about 3 stitches wide and 3 rows tall.

Red Scarf

The scarf is bright red with black narrow stripes and fringed ends. It drapes around the neck and hangs down the left side of the moose.

1. With red yarn, CO 9 sts.
2. Rows 1-10: Knit every row.
3. Rows 11-12: With black yarn, knit every row.
4. Rows 13-34: With red yarn, knit every row.
5. Rows 35-36: With black yarn, knit every row.
6. Rows 37-66: With red yarn, knit every row.
7. BO.

Cut twelve red strands, each 3 inches long. Attach six strands to each scarf end as fringe. Trim evenly. Wrap the scarf around the neck once, letting one end hang down the front left side. Tack it in place with two hidden red stitches behind the neck.

Crossbody Garden Bag

The small beige bag sits on the moose’s front right side with a long strap crossing from shoulder to hip. The bag has embroidered tiny flowers in red, yellow, and green.

Bag Body

1. With beige yarn, CO 18 sts and work flat.
2. Rows 1-4: Knit every row for a textured base.
3. Rows 5-20: Work stockinette stitch.
4. Rows 21-24: Knit every row.
5. BO.

Fold the piece upward so it forms a small pouch about 18 stitches wide and 12 rows tall. Sew both side seams. Fold the top 4 garter rows slightly forward to form a flap.

Bag Strap

1. With beige yarn, CO 3 sts.
2. Work a 3-stitch I-cord for 16 inches.
3. BO and sew one end to each side of the bag.

Place the strap from the moose’s left shoulder across the chest to the right hip. Tack the strap lightly at the shoulder and under the bag so it stays in the same diagonal position as the image.

Bag Embroidery

• Use green yarn to make three tiny stems on the bag front.
• Use yellow yarn for one small flower with five straight stitches.
• Use red yarn for one tulip-like flower using three short stitches.
• Use cream yarn for one small highlight stitch near the top edge.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Green Garden Hat

The green hat lies beside the moose in the image. It has a rounded crown, a soft brim, and a small cream flower with green leaves. This accessory can be placed next to the finished toy or lightly tacked to the hand.

Hat Crown

1. With forest green yarn, CO 8 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: K all sts.
3. Rnd 2: Kfb in every st around. 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: K all sts.
5. Rnd 4: K1, kfb; repeat around. 24 sts.
6. Rnd 5: K all sts.
7. Rnd 6: K2, kfb; repeat around. 32 sts.
8. Rnd 7: K all sts.
9. Rnd 8: K3, kfb; repeat around. 40 sts.
10. Rnds 9-18: K all sts.
11. Rnd 19: K3, k2tog; repeat around. 32 sts.
12. Rnd 20: K all sts.
13. Stuff very lightly if you want a rounded crown, or leave unstuffed for a soft hat.

Hat Brim

1. Rnd 21: Kfb in every st around. 64 sts.
2. Rnds 22-25: K all sts.
3. Rnd 26: P all sts to create a turned brim edge.
4. Rnds 27-29: K all sts.
5. BO loosely.

Hat Flower and Leaves

• For each cream petal, CO 4 sts, knit 4 rows, then k2tog twice, pull closed. Make five petals.
• For the yellow flower center, CO 4 sts, work 2 rows, gather into a knot, and sew to the petals.
• For each green leaf, CO 5 sts, knit 1 row, ssk, k1, k2tog, then BO. Make two leaves.
• Sew the flower to one side of the hat brim with the two leaves tucked underneath.

Brown Sandals with Yellow Flowers

The moose wears dark brown sandals with a thick sole, top strap, and tiny yellow flower decorations. Make two soles and two top straps.

Sandal Soles

1. With dark brown yarn, CO 8 sts and work flat.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: Kfb, k6, kfb. 10 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Rows 5-14: Work stockinette stitch.
7. Row 15: SSK, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
8. Row 16: P all sts.
9. BO.

Sew each sole under the rounded brown foot. Use a few small beige stitches along the front edge to imitate the dotted sole detail visible in the image.

Sandal Straps

1. With dark brown yarn, CO 5 sts.
2. Rows 1-18: Knit every row.
3. BO.
4. Make the second strap the same way.

Sew one strap across the top of each foot, from side to side. It should sit slightly forward over the toe area. Do not sew it too tightly, or the foot shape will flatten.

Yellow Sandal Flowers

• For each flower center, make one small yellow French knot or gathered stitch.
• For petals, make five tiny cream or pale yellow straight stitches around the center.
• Place one flower on the outer side of each sandal strap.

Tiny Bee on the Head

The bee sits on top of the moose’s forehead between the antlers. It has a yellow body, black stripes, and small white wings.

Bee Body

1. With yellow yarn, CO 6 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: K all sts.
3. Rnd 2: Kfb in every st around. 12 sts.
4. Rnd 3: With black yarn, K all sts.
5. Rnd 4: With yellow yarn, K all sts.
6. Rnd 5: With black yarn, K all sts.
7. Rnd 6: With yellow yarn, K all sts.
8. Rnd 7: K2tog around. 6 sts.
9. Stuff with a tiny pinch of fiberfill.
10. Cut yarn, pull through remaining sts, and close.

Bee Wings

• With white yarn, CO 4 sts and knit 3 rows. BO. Make two.
• Pinch one end of each wing and sew to the top of the bee.
• Sew the bee securely to the top of the head, slightly off center toward the moose’s right side.

Small Garden Trowel

The trowel rests near the right hoof. It has a gray blade and a brown handle. You can sew it to the hoof or leave it as a loose accessory.

Trowel Blade

1. With gray yarn, CO 5 sts and work flat.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: Kfb, k3, kfb. 7 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Row 5: K all sts.
7. Row 6: P all sts.
8. Row 7: SSK, k3, k2tog. 5 sts.
9. Row 8: P all sts.
10. Row 9: SSK, k1, k2tog. 3 sts.
11. BO.

Trowel Handle

1. With dark brown yarn, CO 4 sts.
2. Work a 4-stitch I-cord for 2 inches.
3. BO and sew to the narrow end of the blade.

Attach the trowel to the right hoof with one hidden stitch around the handle, or place it beside the moose as shown. Add a small black stitch along the handle end for definition.

Potted Succulent

The potted plant is a small accessory placed near the moose. It has a terra-cotta pot with a ribbed texture and layered green leaves.

Plant Pot

1. With terra-cotta yarn, CO 20 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-3: K1, p1 rib around.
3. Rnds 4-10: K all sts.
4. Rnd 11: K2, k2tog; repeat around. 15 sts.
5. Rnd 12: K all sts.
6. Rnd 13: K1, k2tog; repeat around. 10 sts.
7. Stuff lightly.
8. Rnd 14: K2tog around. 5 sts.
9. Cut yarn, pull through remaining sts, and close.

Succulent Leaves

• Make eight small leaves using green yarn.
• For each leaf, CO 5 sts, knit 1 row, purl 1 row, then k1, ssk, k2tog. 3 sts.
• Next row: P3.
• Final row: Slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over. 1 st.
• Cut yarn and pull closed.
• Sew four leaves around the pot opening, then sew four leaves above them in a smaller circle.

Flower Details for the Moose Body

The small red and cream details make the outfit look close to the image. Use embroidery after all clothing is fitted. Keep stitches small so they look like knitted decoration, not large appliques.

• On the chest bib, add three red flower clusters spaced 5 stitches apart.
• On the lower front shorts, add five red flower clusters along the green band above the cuff.
• Each red cluster uses three short red stitches forming a tiny heart-shaped blossom.
• Place one cream stitch at the center of each flower.
• Add one tiny green stitch below each blossom as a leaf or stem.

Seating and Body Balance

Before sewing all accessories permanently, test the moose in a seated position. The body should rest on the rounded lower back, the legs should hang forward, and the head should remain upright. If the moose tips forward, add a small amount of stuffing to the back lower body.

If the head tips backward because of the antlers, add extra securing stitches at the neck and sew the antlers slightly lower behind the ears. The scarf can also help stabilize the neck when tacked neatly in place.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

1. Sew the head firmly to the body, keeping the muzzle centered and facing forward.
2. Attach both ears at the sides of the head, then sew the antlers behind them.
3. Sew the arms to the body just below the neck and let them hang naturally.
4. Sew the legs to the lower body and attach the rounded feet.
5. Fit the striped overalls over the body and tack them at the back waist, side seams, and bib corners.
6. Add the straps and buttons after the overalls are positioned.
7. Wrap and tack the red scarf around the neck.
8. Sew the bag strap diagonally across the chest and place the pouch at the lower front side.
9. Add eyes, white highlights, muzzle shaping, and all tiny embroidered flowers.
10. Place the bee on top of the head and secure it with several tiny stitches.
11. Add sandals, sandal flowers, the hat, trowel, and potted succulent as final accessories.

Check the face from the front before tying off any facial yarn tails. The eyes should be even, the muzzle should be centered, and the ears should form a wide horizontal line. The expression should look soft, gentle, and slightly curious.

Care Notes

• Spot clean only with cool water and mild soap.
• Do not machine wash if the toy has buttons, embroidered details, or loose accessories.
• Let the toy air dry completely on a towel.
• Reshape the antlers, scarf, and hat while damp if needed.
• Keep away from pets if the small bee, buttons, or trowel are attached loosely.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The muzzle is firmly stuffed and centered on the lower face.
• The ears angle outward, and the antlers sit behind them.
• The overalls have green and cream horizontal stripes.
• The bib has red flower details and two front buttons.
• The red scarf has black stripes and fringe.
• The bag crosses diagonally over the chest.
• The green hat has a cream flower and leaves.
• The sandals have tiny yellow flowers.
• The bee sits securely on the top of the head.
• The trowel and potted succulent are finished as matching garden accessories.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

To preserve the shape, avoid soaking the finished moose. A fully soaked toy may dry unevenly and cause the antlers or muzzle to lose their sculpted form. For small marks, dab gently with a damp cloth and press with a dry towel.

Store the moose sitting upright in a dry place away from direct sunlight. If displayed for a long time, gently dust the antlers, scarf fringe, hat brim, and potted plant with a soft brush. This helps keep the stitches bright and the small details clear.

When packing the toy away, place tissue around the antlers and ears so they do not fold. Keep the bee, hat flower, bag strap, and sandal flowers from catching on other items. A breathable cotton bag is better than a sealed plastic bag for long-term storage.

Your knitted moose is now complete: a warm brown garden friend in striped overalls, ready with a scarf, bee, hat, bag, trowel, sandals, and tiny potted plant.