Knitting Tutorial: Moose Amigurumi in Nordic Sweater Dress – Free Knitting Pattern

This knitted moose amigurumi is a cozy autumn character with a long soft muzzle, wide antlers, tiny embroidered eyes, striped legs, rounded shoes, and a rust-orange Nordic sweater dress. The design includes a cream-and-green colorwork yoke and hem, a floral crown with roses, daisy, leaves, and red berries, plus a small crossbody pouch decorated with berries.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written in US English for a knitted amigurumi-style moose made mostly in the round. The body is shaped as a soft seated doll with a large oval head, narrow neck, relaxed arms, long dangling striped legs, and a sweater dress that sits over the body like the piece shown in the image.

The finished moose measures about 13 inches tall when seated, not including the antler tips. The head is intentionally oversized, the muzzle is long and rounded, and the dress has a slightly flared skirt edge so the toy looks soft, handmade, and gently vintage.

• Finished seated height: about 13 in / 33 cm from shoe soles to antler tips.
• Head height: about 4.5 in / 11.5 cm.
• Body and dress height: about 5 in / 12.5 cm.
• Leg length: about 5.5 in / 14 cm from hem to shoe toe.
• Skill level: confident beginner to intermediate.
• Construction: small knitted pieces, stuffed, shaped, and sewn together.

Materials

• DK weight yarn, tan beige: head, muzzle, ears, legs, shoes, and pouch.
• DK weight yarn, warm rust orange: sweater dress, sleeves, stripes, roses, and large pumpkin-style accent if desired.
• DK weight yarn, forest green: Nordic colorwork, cuffs, stripes, leaves, pom accent, and pouch embroidery.
• DK weight yarn, cream: yoke, hem colorwork, daisy petals, shoe flowers, and small highlight stitches.
• DK weight yarn, dark brown-gray: antlers and hoof tips.
• DK weight yarn, red or berry red: berries on crown and pouch.
• Small amount of yellow yarn: daisy center.
• Black or dark navy embroidery floss: eyes and nostrils.
• Light brown embroidery floss: muzzle shaping line and mouth line.
• US size 2 / 2.75 mm double-pointed needles: for tight amigurumi knitting.
• US size 1 / 2.25 mm needles: optional for flowers and leaves.
• Fiberfill stuffing: firm but soft.
• Tapestry needle: for sewing and embroidery.
• Stitch markers: for round beginnings and placement points.
• Waste yarn: for holding stitches.

Gauge

Gauge should be tight enough that stuffing does not show through. For the best amigurumi finish, knit at about 7 stitches and 10 rounds per inch in stockinette using DK yarn and 2.75 mm needles.

• Gauge swatch in the round: 28 sts x 40 rnds = 4 in / 10 cm.
• Texture goal: firm, smooth, and plush, with visible vertical knit columns like the image.
• Important: if your fabric is loose, go down one needle size.

Abbreviations

• BO: bind off.
• CO: cast on.
• DPNs: double-pointed needles.
• k: knit.
• k2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
• kfb: knit into front and back of same stitch.
• p: purl.
• pm: place marker.
• rnd: round.
• RS: right side.
• ssk: slip, slip, knit.
• st / sts: stitch / stitches.
• WS: wrong side.

Important Knitting Notes

Most pieces are worked in the round so the stockinette fabric looks smooth. When a piece becomes too small for DPNs, divide the stitches across fewer needles or use magic loop. Stuff pieces gradually instead of waiting until the end.

The moose in the image has a handmade knitted look, not a rigid toy shape. Keep the stuffing firm in the head and shoes, medium in the body, and light in the antlers, ears, arms, and flowers.

• Head angle: sew the head slightly forward, with the long muzzle pointing down a little.
• Arms: attach at the lower side of the yoke, angled downward.
• Legs: attach under the dress hem, spaced about 1.25 in apart.
• Antlers: place high on the head and tilt outward like a wide crown.
• Flowers: arrange across the forehead between the antlers.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Color Palette Placement

The image uses a warm woodland palette. The moose head and legs are tan beige, the antlers are dark brown-gray, and the sweater dress is rust orange. Cream and green form the Nordic pattern around the collar and hem. The accessories are small but important for matching the style.

• Main fur: tan beige.
• Antlers and hoof tips: dark brown-gray.
• Sweater dress base: rust orange.
• Colorwork base: cream.
• Nordic motifs: forest green.
• Crown flowers: cream daisy, rust rose, golden orange rose, green leaves, red berries.
• Pouch: tan beige with green leaf and red berry decoration.

Head and Long Muzzle

The head is one of the most important parts of this pattern. It should be tall and oval, wider at the lower muzzle and gently narrower at the top. Work it in tan beige using firm tension.

Head

1. CO 8 sts in tan beige. Divide across DPNs and join in the round. Rnd 1: k all sts.
2. Rnd 2: kfb in each st around. You now have 16 sts.
3. Rnd 3: k all sts.
4. Rnd 4: *k1, kfb; repeat from * around. You now have 24 sts.
5. Rnd 5: k all sts.
6. Rnd 6: *k2, kfb; repeat from * around. You now have 32 sts.
7. Rnd 7: k all sts.
8. Rnd 8: *k3, kfb; repeat from * around. You now have 40 sts.
9. Rnd 9: k all sts.
10. Rnd 10: *k4, kfb; repeat from * around. You now have 48 sts.
11. Rnds 11-18: k all sts for 8 rnds. This forms the upper head.
12. Rnd 19: k12, kfb 12 times, k24. You now have 60 sts. These increases create the front muzzle fullness.
13. Rnds 20-27: k all sts for 8 rnds.
14. Rnd 28: k16, *k4, kfb; repeat from * 4 times, k24. You now have 64 sts.
15. Rnds 29-36: k all sts. Begin stuffing the upper head lightly.
16. Rnd 37: k16, *k2tog, k4; repeat from * 4 times, k24. You now have 60 sts.
17. Rnd 38: k all sts.
18. Rnd 39: *k8, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 54 sts.
19. Rnd 40: k all sts.
20. Rnd 41: *k7, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 48 sts.
21. Rnd 42: k all sts.
22. Rnd 43: *k6, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 42 sts.
23. Rnd 44: k all sts.
24. Rnd 45: *k5, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 36 sts.
25. Rnd 46: k all sts. Add more stuffing, keeping the muzzle oval and smooth.
26. Rnd 47: *k4, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 30 sts.
27. Rnd 48: *k3, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 24 sts.
28. Rnd 49: *k2, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 18 sts.
29. Rnd 50: *k1, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 12 sts.
30. Rnd 51: k2tog around. You now have 6 sts.
31. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull closed, and weave in firmly.

Muzzle Shaping

The image shows a long rounded moose muzzle with a soft vertical line down the front. Use light brown embroidery floss to shape it after the head is stuffed. This gives the face its gentle expression.

1. Thread a long needle with light brown floss.
2. Insert at the lower back of the head and exit at the bottom center front of the muzzle.
3. Make one straight stitch upward for 1.5 in along the center of the muzzle.
4. Reinsert at the top of that line and exit at the starting point.
5. Pull gently so the muzzle dents slightly, but do not make a deep crease.
6. Repeat once more for a visible but soft center line.
7. Make a tiny curved smile line on each side of the lower muzzle using one short stitch per side.

Ears

The moose has small tan ears placed under and beside the antlers. Each ear is oval with a pointed tip and folds slightly inward. Make two.

1. CO 6 sts in tan beige. Work flat.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Row 3: k1, kfb, k2, kfb, k1. You now have 8 sts.
5. Row 4: p all sts.
6. Row 5: k1, kfb, k4, kfb, k1. You now have 10 sts.
7. Rows 6-10: work stockinette, purling WS rows and knitting RS rows.
8. Row 11: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. You now have 8 sts.
9. Row 12: p all sts.
10. Row 13: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. You now have 6 sts.
11. Row 14: p all sts.
12. Row 15: k1, ssk, k2tog, k1. You now have 4 sts.
13. BO all sts, leaving a 10 in tail.
14. Fold the lower edge slightly and sew 2 small stitches to cup the ear.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Antlers

The antlers are wide, soft, and dark brown-gray. Each antler has a main branch and three rounded points. Knit them firmly but stuff them lightly so they hold shape without looking stiff.

Main Antler Stem

Make two main stems.

1. CO 8 sts in dark brown-gray and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-4: k all sts.
3. Rnd 5: *k1, kfb; repeat from * around. You now have 12 sts.
4. Rnds 6-16: k all sts for 11 rnds.
5. Stuff lightly as you work.
6. Rnd 17: *k2, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 9 sts.
7. Rnds 18-21: k all sts.
8. Cut yarn and hold sts on waste yarn. Do not close yet.

Antler Points

Make six points total, three for each antler.

1. CO 8 sts in dark brown-gray and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-6: k all sts.
3. Rnd 7: *k2, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 6 sts.
4. Rnd 8: k all sts.
5. Rnd 9: k2tog around. You now have 3 sts.
6. Cut yarn, thread through sts, pull closed, and weave in.
7. Stuff each point very lightly with a small pinch of fiberfill.

Assembling Each Antler

1. Close the top of each main antler stem by threading through the 9 held sts and pulling gently.
2. Sew one antler point to the top tip of the stem.
3. Sew the second point to the outer side about 0.75 in below the top.
4. Sew the third point to the inner side about 1 in below the top.
5. Curve the antler slightly outward while sewing so it frames the crown.
6. Repeat for the second antler, mirroring the point placement.

Body Base

The body sits under the sweater dress and should be rounded but narrower than the head. Use tan beige for the body base because most of it is hidden by the dress. The neck is short and strong enough to hold the large head.

1. CO 10 sts in tan beige. Join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
3. Rnd 2: kfb in each st around. You now have 20 sts.
4. Rnd 3: k all sts.
5. Rnd 4: *k1, kfb; repeat from * around. You now have 30 sts.
6. Rnd 5: k all sts.
7. Rnd 6: *k2, kfb; repeat from * around. You now have 40 sts.
8. Rnds 7-17: k all sts for 11 rnds.
9. Rnd 18: *k8, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 36 sts.
10. Rnds 19-24: k all sts.
11. Rnd 25: *k4, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 30 sts.
12. Rnds 26-28: k all sts.
13. Rnd 29: *k3, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 24 sts.
14. Rnds 30-32: k all sts. Stuff the body firmly at the bottom and medium at the top.
15. Rnd 33: *k2, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 18 sts.
16. Rnds 34-37: k all sts. This narrow tube forms the neck.
17. BO all sts, leaving a long tail for sewing the head.

Nordic Sweater Dress

The dress is rust orange with cream and green Nordic bands around the yoke and lower hem. The lower edge flares just a little and rests like a soft sweater dress over the seated body. Work it separately from the body, then slide it on and sew in place.

Dress Hem and Skirt

1. CO 72 sts in rust orange. Join in the round, being careful not to twist.
2. Rnds 1-3: k all sts in rust orange.
3. Rnd 4: p all sts to create the subtle rolled ridge at the hem.
4. Rnds 5-7: k all sts in rust orange.
5. Change to cream. Rnd 8: k all sts.
6. Rnd 9: *k3 cream, k1 green, k2 cream; repeat from * around.
7. Rnd 10: *k2 cream, k3 green, k1 cream; repeat from * around.
8. Rnd 11: *k1 cream, k5 green; repeat from * around.
9. Rnd 12: *k2 cream, k3 green, k1 cream; repeat from * around.
10. Rnd 13: *k3 cream, k1 green, k2 cream; repeat from * around.
11. Rnd 14: k all sts in cream.
12. Change to rust orange. Rnds 15-30: k all sts.
13. Rnd 31: *k10, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 66 sts.
14. Rnds 32-36: k all sts in rust orange.
15. Rnd 37: *k9, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 60 sts.
16. Rnds 38-42: k all sts in rust orange.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Upper Nordic Yoke

The yoke is the cream band near the shoulders with green motifs. Keep the floats loose on the inside so the dress does not pucker.

1. Change to cream. Rnd 43: k all sts.
2. Rnd 44: *k2 cream, k2 green, k2 cream; repeat from * around.
3. Rnd 45: *k1 cream, k4 green, k1 cream; repeat from * around.
4. Rnd 46: *k2 cream, k2 green, k2 cream; repeat from * around.
5. Rnd 47: *k1 green, k4 cream, k1 green; repeat from * around.
6. Rnd 48: *k2 cream, k2 green, k2 cream; repeat from * around.
7. Rnd 49: k all sts in cream.
8. Rnd 50: *k8, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 54 sts.
9. Rnd 51: k all sts in cream.
10. Rnd 52: *k7, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 48 sts.
11. Change to rust orange. Rnds 53-56: k all sts.
12. Rnd 57: *k6, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 42 sts.
13. Rnd 58: p all sts to create the neck ridge.
14. BO all sts loosely.

Fitting the Dress

1. Slide the dress over the body from the neck downward before the head is sewn on.
2. Position the hem so it covers the top of the legs after the legs are attached.
3. Sew the dress neckline to the body neckline using rust yarn.
4. Add 6 small tack stitches around the waist so the skirt does not twist.
5. Do not sew the hem flat; it should keep a soft rounded edge like the image.

Sleeves and Arms

The sleeves are rust orange with green cuffs, and the hands are dark brown-gray. The arms are slim and hang straight down from the sweater shoulders.

Arm and Sleeve

Make two.

1. CO 12 sts in dark brown-gray and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-5: k all sts. This forms the small hoof-like hand.
3. Change to forest green. Rnds 6-8: k all sts.
4. Change to rust orange. Rnds 9-25: k all sts.
5. Rnd 26: *k4, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 10 sts.
6. Rnds 27-29: k all sts.
7. Stuff lightly from wrist to upper arm.
8. BO all sts, leaving a 12 in tail.

Attaching Arms

1. Pin one arm to each side of the body, just under the cream yoke band.
2. Angle each arm slightly forward so the hands rest near the dress sides.
3. Sew around the upper arm opening twice for strength.
4. Hide yarn tails inside the body.

Striped Legs

The legs are long, narrow, and dangling with horizontal stripes. In the image, the stripes alternate rust, cream, green, and tan. Make two legs and keep them equal in length.

1. CO 14 sts in tan beige. Join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-4: k all sts in tan beige.
3. Change to cream. Rnds 5-6: k all sts.
4. Change to forest green. Rnds 7-8: k all sts.
5. Change to rust orange. Rnds 9-10: k all sts.
6. Change to cream. Rnds 11-12: k all sts.
7. Change to forest green. Rnds 13-14: k all sts.
8. Change to tan beige. Rnds 15-16: k all sts.
9. Repeat the stripe sequence from Rnds 5-16 two more times.
10. After the final repeat, work 4 rnds in tan beige.
11. Stuff lightly, using only enough filling to make a soft tube.
12. BO all sts, leaving a 10 in tail for attaching to the body.

Rounded Shoes

The shoes are tan beige, rounded at the toe, and slightly wider than the legs. Each shoe has a small ankle band and a tiny cream flower near the side.

Shoe

Make two.

1. CO 8 sts in tan beige. Join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
3. Rnd 2: kfb in each st around. You now have 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: k all sts.
5. Rnd 4: *k1, kfb; repeat from * around. You now have 24 sts.
6. Rnds 5-9: k all sts.
7. Rnd 10: k6, k2tog 6 times, k6. You now have 18 sts. This shapes the top of the toe.
8. Rnds 11-15: k all sts.
9. Rnd 16: *k4, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 15 sts.
10. Rnd 17: k all sts.
11. Stuff the toe firmly and the ankle lightly.
12. BO all sts, leaving a long tail.
13. Sew the shoe to the bottom of the leg, matching the leg opening to the shoe ankle.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Shoe Flowers

Make two tiny cream flowers, one for each shoe.

1. CO 15 sts in cream.
2. Row 1: *k1, BO 1 st over the next st; repeat gently along the row to create tiny loops.
3. Cut yarn, pull through remaining st, and coil the strip into a tiny flower.
4. Secure with a few stitches and sew to the outer ankle area.
5. Add one small rust stitch near each flower as a decorative tie.

Attaching the Legs

1. Place the body upside down before attaching the dress hem permanently.
2. Pin each leg to the lower front of the body, about 1.25 in apart.
3. Make sure the stripes line up visually and both shoes point forward.
4. Sew each leg in a flat oval seam using the cast-on edge.
5. Pull gently after sewing so the legs dangle naturally from under the dress.

Crossbody Pouch

The small pouch is tan beige and hangs across the front from the left shoulder to the right hip. It is rectangular with a rounded base, a long strap, and a small green leaf with red berry decoration.

Pouch Body

1. CO 16 sts in tan beige. Work flat.
2. Rows 1-2: k all sts for garter edge.
3. Rows 3-16: work stockinette, knitting RS rows and purling WS rows.
4. Row 17: k1, ssk, k10, k2tog, k1. You now have 14 sts.
5. Row 18: p all sts.
6. Row 19: k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. You now have 12 sts.
7. Row 20: p all sts.
8. BO all sts.
9. Fold the lower rounded section slightly inward and sew side seams using tan yarn.
10. Lightly stuff with a tiny amount of fiberfill so the pouch looks padded.

Pouch Flap

1. CO 14 sts in tan beige.
2. Rows 1-4: k all sts.
3. Row 5: k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. You now have 12 sts.
4. Row 6: k all sts.
5. BO all sts and sew the straight edge to the top back of the pouch.

Pouch Strap

1. CO 4 sts in tan beige.
2. Work an I-cord for 15 in: k4, slide sts to the other end of the needle, pull yarn across the back, and k4 again.
3. Continue until the strap fits from one shoulder across the body to the opposite hip.
4. BO and sew one end to each upper side of the pouch.

Pouch Decoration

1. With green yarn, embroider two small leaves using 4 straight stitches per leaf.
2. With red yarn, make two French knots or tiny overhand knots for berries.
3. Place the decoration on the lower right front of the pouch.
4. Sew the strap to the moose at the shoulder and hip with hidden stitches so it stays in place.

Floral Crown

The floral crown sits across the forehead, between the antlers. It includes a cream daisy, a rust rose, a golden orange rose, small green leaves, and clusters of red berries. This crown is key to matching the image.

Crown Base Vine

1. CO 4 sts in forest green.
2. Work I-cord for 4.75 in.
3. BO, leaving a long tail.
4. Pin the vine across the top front of the head, slightly curved.
5. Do not sew it down yet; add flowers first for better placement.

Cream Daisy

1. For each petal, CO 4 sts in cream.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Row 3: k2tog twice. You now have 2 sts.
5. Row 4: p2tog. You now have 1 st.
6. Cut yarn and pull through.
7. Make 8 petals total.
8. Arrange petals in a circle and sew together at the base.
9. With yellow yarn, sew 5 small straight stitches in the center.

Rust Rose

1. CO 28 sts in rust orange.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: *kfb, k1; repeat from * across. You will create a slightly ruffled strip.
4. BO loosely.
5. Roll the strip into a spiral, keeping the lower edge aligned.
6. Sew through the base several times to secure the rose.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Golden Orange Rose

1. CO 24 sts in golden orange or mustard yarn.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: *kfb, k2; repeat from * across.
4. BO loosely.
5. Roll into a smaller spiral rose and sew the base firmly.

Leaves

Make eight small leaves in forest green.

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Row 3: kfb, k1, kfb. You now have 5 sts.
5. Row 4: p all sts.
6. Row 5: k1, ssk, k2tog. You now have 3 sts.
7. Row 6: p all sts.
8. Row 7: slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over. You now have 1 st.
9. Cut yarn and pull through.

Red Berries

Make six small berries.

1. CO 6 sts in red yarn and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
3. Rnd 2: kfb in each st around. You now have 12 sts.
4. Rnd 3: k all sts.
5. Rnd 4: k2tog around. You now have 6 sts.
6. Stuff with a very tiny pinch of fiberfill.
7. Cut yarn, thread through sts, pull closed, and weave in.

Arranging the Crown

1. Place the daisy just left of center on the green vine.
2. Place the rust rose beside the daisy, slightly higher.
3. Place the golden orange rose to the right of the rust rose.
4. Tuck leaves behind the flowers so the tips show outward.
5. Add three red berries on each side, close to the antlers.
6. Sew every piece securely to the vine first.
7. Then sew the full crown to the head with tiny hidden stitches.

Facial Features

The face should stay soft and simple. The image has tiny dark eyes placed high on the long muzzle area, with small nostril stitches lower down. Avoid large safety eyes because they would change the gentle knitted character.

1. Mark eye placement about 1.75 in down from the top of the head and 0.75 in apart.
2. Use dark navy or black floss to make each eye with 3 small horizontal satin stitches.
3. Add one tiny cream highlight stitch above each eye if desired.
4. Place nostrils lower on the muzzle, about 1 in above the bottom curve.
5. For each nostril, make one short vertical brown stitch.
6. Add the soft center muzzle line if not already completed.

Neck Tuft

A small rust-orange tuft appears behind the side of the head and neck. It adds warmth and gives the moose a cozy autumn look.

1. Cut 10 strands of rust orange yarn, each 3 in long.
2. Fold one strand in half and use a needle or hook to pull the loop through a stitch at the back of the neck.
3. Pull the yarn ends through the loop to knot it.
4. Repeat across a 1 in section at the back neckline.
5. Trim the tuft to about 0.75 in long.

Optional Cream Beret Prop

The image includes a cream knitted beret with a green pom-pom beside the moose. This is a separate decorative prop. It is not worn by the moose, but it helps recreate the full scene.

1. CO 48 sts in cream and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-4: k1, p1 rib around.
3. Rnd 5: *k3, kfb; repeat from * around. You now have 60 sts.
4. Rnds 6-14: k all sts.
5. Rnd 15: *k8, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 54 sts.
6. Rnd 16: k all sts.
7. Rnd 17: *k7, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 48 sts.
8. Rnd 18: k all sts.
9. Rnd 19: *k6, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 42 sts.
10. Rnd 20: *k5, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 36 sts.
11. Rnd 21: *k4, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 30 sts.
12. Rnd 22: *k3, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 24 sts.
13. Rnd 23: *k2, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 18 sts.
14. Rnd 24: *k1, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 12 sts.
15. Rnd 25: k2tog around. You now have 6 sts.
16. Cut yarn, pull through remaining sts, and close.
17. Make a small green pom-pom about 1 in wide and sew it to the top.

Optional Knitted Pumpkins

The image also shows two pumpkins at the side. Make one rust pumpkin and one smaller golden pumpkin if you want the full autumn display.

Large Rust Pumpkin

1. CO 48 sts in rust orange and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-20: k all sts.
3. Rnd 21: *k6, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 42 sts.
4. Rnd 22: *k5, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 36 sts.
5. Rnd 23: *k4, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 30 sts.
6. Stuff firmly.
7. Rnd 24: *k3, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 24 sts.
8. Rnd 25: *k2, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 18 sts.
9. Rnd 26: *k1, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 12 sts.
10. Rnd 27: k2tog around. You now have 6 sts.
11. Cut yarn and close the top.
12. Thread a long strand of rust yarn from top to bottom and wrap around the pumpkin 6 times to make deep ribs.
13. Pull each wrap snugly and knot underneath.

Small Golden Pumpkin

1. CO 36 sts in golden orange and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-14: k all sts.
3. Rnd 15: *k4, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 30 sts.
4. Rnd 16: *k3, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 24 sts.
5. Stuff firmly.
6. Rnd 17: *k2, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 18 sts.
7. Rnd 18: *k1, k2tog; repeat from * around. You now have 12 sts.
8. Rnd 19: k2tog around. You now have 6 sts.
9. Close the top and create 6 ribs with long vertical wraps.

Pumpkin Stems

1. CO 6 sts in gray-brown yarn and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-5: k all sts.
3. Rnd 6: k2tog around. You now have 3 sts.
4. Cut yarn, pull closed, and sew one stem to each pumpkin.

Head Attachment

The head must be sewn securely because it is larger than the body. The long muzzle should lean slightly forward, giving the moose the gentle seated look shown in the image.

1. Place the head on the neck opening with the muzzle centered over the dress front.
2. Pin the head before sewing and check the balance from the front and side.
3. Use the body neck tail to sew around the neck twice.
4. Add extra hidden stitches at the front underside of the muzzle to keep the head from tilting backward.
5. Add two stabilizing stitches at the back of the neck.
6. Shape the head with your hands after sewing so the muzzle stays oval.

Antler and Ear Placement

The antlers should frame the crown and sit high on the head. The ears are slightly lower and partly hidden under the antler bases, just as in the image.

1. Mark the top center of the head.
2. Place each antler about 1 in from the center line and 0.5 in behind the flower crown line.
3. Tilt each antler outward at about a 35-degree angle.
4. Sew each antler base with dark yarn, stitching around the base at least twice.
5. Place each ear just below the antler base on the side of the head.
6. Sew the cupped base of each ear to the head with tan yarn.
7. After sewing, bend the ears slightly outward and forward.

Dress Colorwork Tips

The Nordic bands are simple repeated motifs, but they must be even. The image has a handmade fair-isle look with green shapes floating over cream. Keep the green motifs centered and repeat them cleanly around the dress.

• Carry yarn loosely behind the work so the dress keeps its round shape.
• Twist floats every 4 stitches if a color is carried too far.
• Do not pull the green too tightly, or the yoke will shrink.
• Steam lightly only if needed, keeping the iron away from the toy.
• Small uneven stitches are acceptable and add handmade charm.

Seaming and Stuffing Guidance

Amigurumi knitting depends on shaping. The stitch counts create the base forms, but the final look comes from careful stuffing and sewing. Add stuffing in small pieces, especially inside the muzzle, shoe toes, and pumpkin props.

• Head: firm stuffing, especially in the muzzle and lower cheeks.
• Body: medium-firm stuffing so it sits upright.
• Legs: light stuffing so they dangle.
• Shoes: firm toe stuffing for rounded feet.
• Antlers: light stuffing only, so they remain soft.
• Pouch: tiny amount of stuffing for a padded look.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

1. Sew the sweater dress to the body and secure the neckline first.
2. Attach both legs under the front hem, then sew the shoes to the leg ends.
3. Sew the arms at the side of the yoke, with the dark hands pointing down.
4. Sew the head to the neck, keeping the muzzle centered and slightly forward.
5. Add the ears and antlers, checking that they frame the face evenly.
6. Sew the floral crown across the forehead between the antlers.
7. Add the pouch strap diagonally across the front and tack it down at shoulder and hip.
8. Embroider the eyes, nostrils, muzzle center line, and small mouth curves.
9. Trim all yarn tails and tuck them securely inside the nearest seam.

Care Notes

Because this moose has flowers, antlers, embroidery, and a pouch, gentle care is best. Do not machine wash the finished toy. Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap, then press with a dry towel.

• Keep away from heavy moisture.
• Do not wring or twist the antlers.
• Reshape the muzzle and shoes after cleaning.
• Let the toy air dry flat on a towel.
• Store away from direct sunlight to protect the warm colors.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is oval, tall, and slightly larger than the body.
• The muzzle has a soft vertical center line.
• The antlers are dark, wide, and angled outward.
• The floral crown includes a daisy, two roses, leaves, and red berries.
• The sweater dress has cream and green Nordic bands at the yoke and hem.
• The rust-orange body of the dress is smooth and slightly flared.
• The arms have green cuffs and dark hoof-like hands.
• The legs are long, narrow, and evenly striped.
• The shoes are rounded and decorated with small cream flowers.
• The pouch hangs diagonally across the front and has berry embroidery.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

To preserve the shape, clean only the area that needs attention. Use cool water on a soft cloth and dab gently. Avoid soaking the crown, berries, and antlers because small sewn pieces can shift when fully wet.

After cleaning, support the head and antlers while drying. Lay the moose on its back or side on a towel. Use your fingers to smooth the muzzle, straighten the legs, and round the shoes before the fibers dry completely.

• For dust, use a clean dry makeup brush or soft craft brush.
• For loose fibers, trim carefully with small scissors instead of pulling.
• For storage, wrap lightly in tissue and keep in a breathable box.
• Do not place heavy objects on top of the toy.
• Refresh the flowers by gently lifting petals and leaves with your fingers.

Your knitted moose amigurumi is now complete, with its Nordic sweater dress, soft antlers, autumn flower crown, striped legs, rounded shoes, and tiny berry pouch. Display it with the optional beret and pumpkins for the full cozy woodland scene.